A Challenge: Designing A new modular layout section

[torikoos]

Well it's taken a little while for the next update, but here's the latest situation.
I've build both boards, and have constructed the legs with height adjustment (I can adjust each leg by about an 1" for uneven floor and mating to other modules). It's now a matter of alignment of the tracks, fit them permanently and then continue the wiring.
This picture shows them in my living room set up for test purposes (and I can work on them without being antisocial :-) )


Wolter Springs on completed legs by K2K Koos, on Flickr

Koos

[torikoos]

And yet another few days has meant that I've been able to permanently install all the track feeder wiring and bus wiring underneath the baseboards, and we've got power to the tracks, by means of a discounted Lenz DCC set I found at a local hobby shop that is getting rid of it's Lenz stock, and going for Marklin and Fleischmann/Roco systems exclusively.

I am very pleased with this progress. :-)

Koos


GP35 first run by K2K Koos, on Flickr

[torikoos]

Plywood Pacific is starting to fade away. There is a base coat of paint on it in a sandy/earth tone. I will add a second layer soon, in which I'll sprinkle some initial ground cover, that should start to dress things up nicely.

Then I'll plan and pencil in some more features such as roads, structure food prints etc. Once the turnout motors are installed, and operational, the track will get painted, and then ballasted.
Then the fun really starts, scenery :-)

Koos


Base colour by K2K Koos, on Flickr

[dwight77]

Hi Koos:
Your work looks great.
One suggestion; we used to use carriage bolts to adjust the legs on our N-Trak modules ( <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.scalerails.org">www.scalerails.org</a><!-- w --> ).
If you are only adjusting one or two, it isn't too bad, trying to get a wrench on the bolt.
But when we had to adjust several; especially when we took the layout to a show, it became a hassle.
We found it was much easier to use Eye-Bolts and just run a screwdriver in the eye and make the turns for adjustment; it is much quicker and easier on the back
dwight77

[torikoos]

Next up is installing turnout motors under the boards.
Here's number one, supplied by Conrad Electronics. European members of the Gauge, particularly those living in Germany and the Netherlands will be familiar with that company. They're also available in the UK, and possibly several other european countries.
They are cheap, compact, and appear to be decent quality, but time will tell.


Turnout motor install by K2K Koos, on Flickr

[torikoos]

All turnout motors are now mechanically installed. I am waiting for a DCC accessory decoder to drive these. Once that one arrives I can start wiring them up.
In the meantime, I started painting/weathering the track. The first of several coats of paint has been applied (in this case a drab green as an overall wash, and the rails have been brush painted a dark brown to simulate old rust).
Several passes with very thinned (washes) of various grades of brown , grey and other dust tones will follow to get the effect of real old track, that has bits of moss growing on it, tar, cinders, mud, rust deposits etc...
Once I'm done with that, I'll start on basic terrain covering.


First layer paint by K2K Koos, on Flickr

Koos

[jwb]

Are you going to do anything about the gaps at the rail joints where there aren't any ties underneath?

[torikoos]

Yes, I have some wood ties that I'm currently staining, and will slip those in those spots, prior to ballasting etc.

Koos

[torikoos]

road and platform have been filled in roughly. Some more to do yet, before I will start on the scenery application.

Plaster road by K2K Koos, on Flickr

[torikoos]

I got a little distracted and bought this loco in an impulse, as it was in the sale. An Atlas GP38-2 CP rail.
It is n't my usual railroad but I think I will have a go at superdetailing this one, so I can switch to the 'modern' era with my module from time to time. :-)


CP rail 4400 by K2K Koos, on Flickr

Koos

[torikoos]

The first scenery application is a fact:
Slowly moving forward, I've now applied the first layer of Woodland scenics blended turf T50 earth, as part of the 'sub scenery'.
It will be followed in due course by applications of other shades and textures such as grass tufts, clump foliage, static grass etc, where applicable.
The outline of the road has also been applied with a layer of plaster, and will need a bit of sanding down here and there before painting, but before I do that I need to install the guard rails at the level crossing, and apply the plaster mix there to create the crossing.
It is slowly taking shape however, so for those who are following the progress, here's a picture after the first application was done and still thoroughly wet...


Applying scenery by K2K Koos, on Flickr

[Ralph]

Looking good! I admire your track weathering.

[torikoos]

Thanks Ralph,

It's pretty easy to do, and on a smaller layout or module, it's also easy to manage. For large layouts it might be a lot of work, but could be done to just foreground tracks perhaps.
Anyway, I first spray painted the entire track a dull green (yes that's green) Then I painted the rail a rust brown colour, for which I used an enamel paint, thinned with a suitable thinner, and let it run onto the spikes and other parts of the track that might be made of metal and turn rusty.
I then used an ocre yellow , very much thinned into a wash and randomly applied it to several ties , and because it's a wash, it applies fast and thin. I used a similar wash to randomly stain grey enamel, and again a light pass with the brown over several ties. I got inspiration from this technique by Mike Cofalone's Algash scenery articles in MRH magazine, I just used different paints (he uses thinned artist colours). I didn't wait until each wash was dry, I deliberately let them run and blend, creating even more colour variations and no stark contrasts.

The overal look creates that of heavily used, old track, with the occasional dab of moss growing through (hence the green), but showing age (grey), rust and brown creosote (brown) , and other stains and fungy (ocre yellow), but note that nothing jumps out, particularly the lighter washes I used very sparingly. The great thing is, if it doesn't look right, just go over it with another wash before it's dry and it'll blend in. Otherwise wait until dry (which isn't long ) and paint over it.


After the base scenery is done, I will ballast the tracks, which will make these ties and the track stand out, without actually 'standing out' , if you know what I mean. It will then get some more final weathering using powders etc.

Koos

[torikoos]

Further to my above post on track weathering, here's a good illustration on the difference between an unweathered tie, and weathered ones. These were inserted to fill the gap between the turnout and the flex track, these have since been weatered of course. It's worth the effort spending a bit of time to weather your rail before ballasting.

koos


Clean and weathered ties by K2K Koos, on Flickr

[torikoos]

I've now applied some ballast, it's amazing how this transforms the otherwise bare module.

I still have lots to do, but thought I'd share this picture.

Koos


Gp35. SP 6521 by K2K Koos, on Flickr