wuestion about track

[SPUPCNWTOTHERMAX]

Hello everyone me zachary here i have a wuestion about some track. I gave flextrack a try and me and it just cnt get along. And i wanted to know how god the bachman eztrack is operationaly speaking ofcourse .
Im thinkig of purchaseing the woulds greatest hobby pack here in a few weeks thanks. ZAchary Flowe

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[Russ Bellinis]

I think you should learn to use flex track. As far as the Bachmann E-Z Track, what do you want to model. You will be restricted to a 22 inch radius unless they make a larger radius that I haven't heard of. 22 inch radius is barely adequate for 50 foot cars and 4 axle diesels.

[Trucklover]

I think you should learn to use flex track. As far as the Bachmann E-Z Track, what do you want to model. You will be restricted to a 22 inch radius unless they make a larger radius that I haven't heard of. 22 inch radius is barely adequate for 50 foot cars and 4 axle diesels.

Ill second Russ on this one, i would highly suggest giving Flex another go. There is so much more you can do with flex....

On the other hand, if you dont mine running nothing bigger then 50'ers and smaller locos, you could get away with using sectional and 22" radius.... Its completely up to you. You can run some larger stuff on 22" radius, but it looks pretty out of place when you do, thats why i suggest flex if you want to run those 6 axle diesels and anything longer then 50'ers really lol

[Wiredup]

if your having issues with the flex and wanna try prefabbed track with roadbed... you should look at the Kato Uni-track. It's available in both N and HO scales and comes in varying lengths, curves, and misc pieces. It's very easy to work with and is much nicer looking than the Bachmann stuff. It's similar in price and also seems to work a bit better.

But you should really keep working with the flex track. Try using a track-cutter instead of wire cutters to cut the track. Also get a small hand file to shape the ends a little better.

[MasonJar]

Zachary,

If you can tell us more about your troubles with the track, we can probably help you more. Is it curving, laying, cutting, or other problems? Was it Atlas flex (really bendy) or something like MicroEngineering, where you really need to bend it to shape (and it stays that way)?

Andrew

[SPUPCNWTOTHERMAX]

really the thig is i have poor eyesight and really cant solder good is why i wanna change over
and yeah its atlas code 100 flex i know nt the most realistic i know so shoot me its just i want someting solid that i know
will work its just that ive had my layout in its tracked form fo about six or severn months and i just want to run sum trains for once without a derailment and the cuttingand shapeing isnt whats bothering me ts just the soldering that i cnt do cause of my visn thanks and hobby lobby has the worlds greatsest hobby track pack at 129.99 and they putt a 40percent coupon out that u can use on anything in the store and i was gonna get it with that cause ive done spent atleast 250 bucks on flex thanks zachary flowe and yes its the same zachary from the gauge this new site wouldnt let me have my old name thanks zachary

[Russ Bellinis]

Do you live where there might be some other model railroaders nearby? The club I'm in has helped model railroaders both in the club and out of the club. In fact a bunch of the guys took off on a Saturday and went to Victorville from Orange County (probably 75-100 miles) to help a guy build a layout. No matter what sort of track you use, you will eventually have to have it soldered. If there is a model railroad club near you, you might find a couple of guys who can come by and help you with your layout.

[upnick]

Hi SPUPCNWTOTHERMAX,

Soldering track is not difficult with a few simple tools, where the wires are to be affixed remove a few sleepers then turn the track over run a file next to the last sleeper wipe the rail clean and apply a little flux with a paintbrush get a hot up to temperature iron (i use an Antex 25Watt with a 3mm tip) tin the end of the iron tip with solder and touch the rail you should hear it sizzle and see the solder flow onto the rail as soon as you hear the sizzle or the solder flows remove it work quickly as too much heat will melt the plastic sleeper.
Repeat for the other rail....... now prepare your wire by stripping the insulation nearly as wide as the gap between your two rails twist the wire so all the strands are together then flux and tin with solder just eonugh solder to cover the wire ...... with a pair of pliers bend the tinned part at a right angle at the top of the insulation you stripped and squeeze on the wire to flatten it.
Apply a little more flux to the rail and wire and hold to the rail wipe the iron tip clean pick a little solder on to the tip and apply it to the wire and rail again until you feel the wire move down to the rails and hear the sizzle hold in place for a moment, with wire cutters trim the overlong wire and file up the the rail edge and you will have a good solid joint.
I have done a drawing with paint i hope explains it.

[SPUPCNWTOTHERMAX]

thanks guys ill give all of ur suggestions a try i have another question what tupe of a soldering iron works da vest and im sorry for the shorthand ive been txtng ayto much here lately zachary

[upnick]

thanks guys ill give all of ur suggestions a try i have another question what tupe of a soldering iron works da vest and im sorry for the shorthand ive been txtng ayto much here lately zachary

Hi
As i said in my previous posting an Antex 25XS 25 watt iron will do everything you need