Isolating a section of already-ballasted track?

[RobertInOntario]

My current main layout is an HO (or British OO) layout that is slightly smaller than 4x6'. It has two loops of track. The outer loop already has the track separated or isolated into two sections, so that I can switch off the power from one section of track while I run a loco on the other.

I'd like to add this "feature" to the inner loop, which does not have this. However, the entire layout already has scenery and the track is ballasted. So, to create two sections on the inner loop, I was thinking of using my Atlas HO saw to cut right through two sections of track, and attaching power wires to the new section. Once I've sawed through the two sections, I thought I would fill the gaps with small pieces of plastic or styrofoam.

Does this sound like the best way to tackle this? I don't want to wreck an otherwise good section of track that currently works well. I'm worried that the two sections -- where I would saw through -- could cause derailments or bad running, etc.

Hope this makes sense! Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Rob

[jwb]

The best way to make sure the rails stay straight is to put a Kadee style track gauge on either side of the place where you are going to make the cut. This will help keep the saw action from pulling the rails loose while you cut. Otherwise yes, make the cut and fill the gap with styrene held in place with CA glue. Also, make the cut on a straight section of track.

[teejay]

Would the trusty Dremel work better ?

T

[Puddlejumper]

If you have a dremel, it works really well. Just hold it steady, and work slow and easy. Works like a champ to cut gaps in track that is already in place on the layout.

If you expect your track to expand during summer, then you can plug the gap with some styrene, but if expansion is not a problem the gap will likely be ok as is.

Dave

[RobertInOntario]

Thanks for this feedback.

The only concern I have is that, because the inner loop is small and this is a very compact layout (just under 4x6'), there aren't too many straight sections where I could cut -- the most ideal or convenient one would actually be on a curve.

[teejay]

If your dremel has that remote/cord attachment you could probably get the cutting blade into any area you choose . Mine didn't come with that originally and I didn't feel like paying what I considered too much for the attachment ....something like $60 or 70 if I remember right .

T

[RobertInOntario]

If your dremel has that remote/cord attachment you could probably get the cutting blade into any area you choose . Mine didn't come with that originally and I didn't feel like paying what I considered too much for the attachment ....something like $60 or 70 if I remember right .

T

How much do dremels cost? I'll check them out at Home Depot -- I live literally a 5-minute walk away from one!

[teejay]

It's been about 25 years since I bought , so I don't know .......maybe go on line first .

I think Wall Fart carries them too .

T

[Charlie B]

If your dremel has that remote/cord attachment you could probably get the cutting blade into any area you choose . Mine didn't come with that originally and I didn't feel like paying what I considered too much for the attachment ....something like $60 or 70 if I remember right .

T

How much do dremels cost? I'll check them out at Home Depot -- I live literally a 5-minute walk away from one!

I got a generic one from Harbor freight and it works very well. Just make sure you get the AC operated one. I also have a Dremel but I have been using the cheapy and it has built my layout and still going strong.

Another thing you should do especially on a curve is spike the rail in place to stabilize it. (on both sides of where you want to cut)after I make cuts I use JB Weld to fill the gap and build up around the outside for extra hold.
Charlie

[BR60103]

Rob:
The gap has to be well stabilized. If the track is pre-fab, it may hold the curve. Flex track will need spiking.
I did one where I soldered a bit of PCB (an old tie) under the gap and only cut down to the copper.
Fill the gap with something solid -- not a blob of glue. Plastic strip or a toothpick and maybe down into a hole in the roadbed. Carve to the profile of the rail.
A Dremel will give you an angled cut unless you have an extension shaft. The Hobby shop should have some plastic devices that go over the rails to hold them in place while you cut.

[RobertInOntario]

Rob:
The gap has to be well stabilized. If the track is pre-fab, it may hold the curve. Flex track will need spiking.
I did one where I soldered a bit of PCB (an old tie) under the gap and only cut down to the copper.
Fill the gap with something solid -- not a blob of glue. Plastic strip or a toothpick and maybe down into a hole in the roadbed. Carve to the profile of the rail.
A Dremel will give you an angled cut unless you have an extension shaft. The Hobby shop should have some plastic devices that go over the rails to hold them in place while you cut.

David,

Yes, the track is pre-fab (set-track) so it will hold its shape. I like the idea of adding a toothpick or a plastic strip to fill the gap. The track is firmly in place, being curved set-track and already ballasted, so that shouldn't be a problem. Still trying to figure out if I need to buy a dremel or if I can do this with my Atlas saw. Thanks, Rob

[teejay]

Maybe you could borrow the dremel .....doesn't sound like you have need for one enough to buy it . Heck , I could mail you mine to use ....you pay postage

T

[Ralph]

I've done this with an Atlas saw. It is possible, just putzy. Since you want to avoid cutting both tracks you have to make careful short back-and-forth strokes. It takes a while...sort of requires the patience of a prisoner making a quiet jail break by sawing through the bars when the guard isn't watching.

[RobertInOntario]

I've done this with an Atlas saw. It is possible, just putzy. Since you want to avoid cutting both tracks you have to make careful short back-and-forth strokes. It takes a while...sort of requires the patience of a prisoner making a quiet jail break by sawing through the bars when the guard isn't watching.

Thanks, I think I know what you mean, especially re the short strokes and not wanting to cut up the adjacent track or other parts of the layout. I'll have to wait until I'm in the right mood & am well rested, etc.!

[RobertInOntario]

In some of my railway magazines -- mainly the British ones -- I've seen them refer to something like a pair of cutters (almost like wire cutters except these are for track) that can be used to snip the rails of HO track instead of using a saw. Has anyone else used these or know if we can purchase them over here?

For example, see this site (<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://modeltrains.about.com/od/track/tp/Model-Trains-Toolbox-Track.htm">http://modeltrains.about.com/od/track/t ... -Track.htm</a><!-- m -->) about half way down the page.

Thanks.