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First problem is I think that a double slip switch would help me get my trains where I want them to go.
I have looked at Peco at the LHS and it looks go, but it is code 100 and I am laying code 83 track. The nice thing about the Peco is that it was only 10 inches long and would fit nicely. Peco doesn't have a code 83 version of this turnout.
So the question is how big is the Walthers #6 double slip turnout?
Could I use the Peco code 100 and hook it into my code 83 flex track? If so would it look odd?
Kent
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Joined: Dec 2008
The #6 double slip is likely longer than 10". I'm surprised the Peco is only 10". I don't really know for sure how long the Walthers is.
You can buy rail joiners that transition from code 100 to code 83 if you have to use the Peco unit. maybe someone will chime in with a source. probably Peco, or Shinohara, or Walthers will have them.
Dave
-Dave
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A couple thoughts: On addition to two different rail sizes you are talking two different manufacturers. There may be a difference in the thickness of the ties. I'm sure you can use the pieces together regardless. One way is to place a styrene shim below the track which has the lower railhead, rasing the railhead to match the other. Simply glue the pieces of track to the roadbed in alignment and don't worry about a rail joiner. You will need to solder leads of course. I've done this with no problems. Another approach I used recently was to solder brass shim (I used sprue material from a photo etched brass kit) to the bottom of the smaller rail to make the railheads match, then placed both pieces of track in the rail joiner for the larger size.
I would buy the turnout and first check to see the mismatch then proceed. Yes there are railjoiners made to transistion. The one I am aware of is by Atlas. All it is is a railjoiner with a slit across the top in the middle and bent so one side is lower than the other. I've made my own with a dremel cutting disc and two pair of pliers. I tend to use multiple rail sizes a lot, and by several manufacturers!
Gary
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jglfan Wrote:One way is to place a styrene shim below the track which has the lower railhead, rasing the railhead to match the other. Simply glue the pieces of track to the roadbed in alignment and don't worry about a rail joiner. You will need to solder leads of course. I've done this with no problems.
Gary
This is good advice and i think the best way. Sometimes slip turnouts become problematic and the above method with no joiners would make it super easy to perform maintenance and even remove and replace the turnout if it ever becomes necessary.
Dave
-Dave
