looking for some ideas
#1
I've been doing some scenery on my layout and I've been using the old go to way of painting my foam board base tan, then sprinkling on some ground foam. Everywhere I've done so far still has a real toyish look to it. Just looking to see if anybody else has any drastically different scenery ideas cause I'd like to try something new I think.
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#2
Hi, I also paint the foam but then I spread sifted dirt from outside then put on some foam. I always make sure the dirt and ground foam are very fine as the coarser stuff tends not to look right to me. When I have that looking the way I want I then add somemore texure and colors to the landscape to keep it from looking like somebody's front lawn.
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#3
Well I was looking around online and I think I might have better results using Brown paint. But I think I'll also try using some dirt on my base layer as well. I like that idea.
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#4
You could do things like lightly sanding places in the foam to make slight depressions in the ground and in other areas, build up the terrain just a little with some plaster; just enough here and there so the area doesn't look completely flat. Then as Mike suggested, add some real earth, even very fine sand over all that to give it some texture and then plant weeds and grass.

On my own switching layout (if I ever settle on a final track arrangement), I plan on carving out drainage ditches along each side of the main switching lead - just deep enough to give the effect of that being the main track and giving the appearance of there being roadbed. Industry tracks will vary from having very little ballast to some with ties down in the earth or in at least one case, the track will be in pavement.

As for painting the base foam, I had my local paint dealer mix up a quart of flat interior latex paint matched to Floquil earth color and it looks just right. I had tried to use a darker brown, but it looked much too dark, although it would look okay for areas that might be wet from rain, etc.

Look at some of the layouts constructed or under construction on Big Blue and you'll see all sorts of neat ideas. One of the most effective, is to have grass and weeds growing up in the track and next to structures.

Just my little ideas.
Ed
"Friends don't let friends build Timesavers"
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#5
KevinKrey Wrote:Well I was looking around online and I think I might have better results using Brown paint. But I think I'll also try using some dirt on my base layer as well. I like that idea.

Cheers

I use Brown Latex paint laid on relatively thick, then sift a 'sand, 'dirt, 'grass, mixture over the wet paint and let it set. Corrections / additions, are usually just adding shrubs or weeds, and that's done using a thinned carpenter's glue. If i need more grass, I can paint the "grassy areas" with the same latex paint, and sift "green" grass over it.
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
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#6
Kevin: did you leave the board flat or put some variation on it? A bit of work with a hot wire tool can create wonders. If the wire if not fully taut you get curves.

Then vary the cover. I start with a mix of a bunch of green shades with a few stray brown shades. If I want to change I add a second layer. I think I used a green base that we had left from painting the house.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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#7
Kevin,

apart from giving your terrain some slight variations in height (even flat lands, are not always completely flat, and even if this is the case in some areas, a model tends to look a bit more 'real' with some slight variations) , but also be aware that you are better off using a variety of ground foams and other materials.

Just foam of one size and colour will look odd, mix in a few other colours that are related to your main colour, also use some that are slightly finer and coarser and mix these in randomly, and then finally use some grasses (static grass, or cut out pieces of grass matts (again in various related colours), and shrubs and small bushes will make it look a lot nicer.

If you're not sure, try it on a test area, and see how it looks, but variety in particularly texture and colour, aswell as size are key to a realistic landscape.

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers, Koos

PS: I nearly forgot, bright colours are usually a bad idea too, better results are generally acchieved by toned down colours, autumn and late summer blends etc).
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#8
And here's an idea of how I've done a small area (I've since added a few more items to this area).

[Image: 8961219229_9c054de7f6_z.jpg]
Wild grass field two by K2K Koos, on Flickr
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#9
Thanks for all the ideas! I do have several hilly areas, and a few low bodies of water, but I'm gonna toy with ground level some more. As for glue how are you guys gluing down everything. I tried mixing 50/50 glue water to save money but I can't get it to spread real well or wick in nicely. I do mist everything with a water/detergent mix first too.
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#10
Hi Kevin,

I also use a mix of white glue and 'wet water'. My mix is probably lighter and more a 30 / 70 mix in favour of water, with a good squirt of washing up liquid added. It does mean that everything smells very soapy, and is very wet, drying times are therefore longer, however it does flow very well.
For pre-soaking (just water with detergent) I use a plant spray can, and make sure I get as fine a mist as possible, and I do not aim directly at the ground cover, this will prevent foam to be blown away by the force of the water or water drops. I do hold my hand slightly below the nozzle to prevent drops from falling down causing 'craters'.

I then use a eye dropper or similar pipette to carefully drop my glue mix on it, I try to get as close to the surface as possible almost touching, so that the drop doesn't fall too much , and everything stays in place. Also don't squeeze too hard or you will cause a jet that blows things all over, gently does it. I tackle about 1 to 2 square feet at the time.
Practice makes perfect.
Once I complete a layer I let it dry thoroughly, if needed several days, and then apply my next layer of foam/grass / scrubs etc.

Hope that helps, and good luck.
Koos
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#11
Kevin because the glue can cause a darkening of the materials after I get everything looking the way I want I will sprinkle the last layer on and not glue it. Not a good idea if you are taking your layout outside, but not a problem indoors where there is no wind.
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#12
Here's a little article I wrote long ago when I was having issues with landscaping techniques.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://ovar.ca/Articles/BatchelorDiorama/small_diorama_kick.htm">http://ovar.ca/Articles/BatchelorDioram ... a_kick.htm</a><!-- m -->

Hope it helps.

Andrew
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#13
Nice little Diorama Andrew :-)

Kev,

I forgot to mention this little tip, on hills and slopes, I generally first apply a layer of white glue (or a strong mix of wet water and glue), and add some ground foam, this will give other scenery materials something to grip on, and you won't be flushing other materials down when applying water and glue..
In some cases I go straight in with a static grass applicator, but also then I use a strong bond of glue on hills.

Looking forward to seeing some pictures of your progress :-)

Koos
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
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#14
Most of us look at our layouts from 2'-3' if isn't "in your face." In HO that' about 150'-300'. It seems to me if you can "see" your dirt at those distances, it's way too big. Seems to me the best size for dirt would be something w/ the consistency of flour & then add your veg types.
Andy Jackson
Santa Fe Springs CA
ATSF/LAJ Ry Fan & Modeler
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#15
torikoos Wrote:Nice little Diorama Andrew :-)

Thanks!


Andrew
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