rolling stock car truck repair

[leon]

I bought a passenger train set quite a few years ago and the side frames were machined too deep for the wheel axels to the point where the bottom of the frames would slide along the track. This was not too noticeable on the level but caused so much friction on the slightest grade where the loco's wheels just polished the track. My question is: what do I use to repair the side frames so the wheel axels have a proper fit and don't have that much play.

[Charlie B]

Leon, what brand are the cars so we have a little more to go on.
Charlie

[leon]

The cars were made by Bachman of the Spectrum type. I purchased the train set in the early 2000's and didn't realize the limitations on the guarantee.(rolling stock only covered for 90 days)

[Charlie B]

Leon, maybe new axles and wheels would fix them. some of those axles on some cars were really small. Perhaps you could find some with a larger diameter at the start of the taper. If you have one of the axle tools from micro mart you could fill the axle socket one side at a time with a compatible plastic and recut the bearing surface. You would have to do this one side at a time letting the plastic cure on the one side, then cut the bearing, then do the other side. The other and best way would be to replace the trucks.

Charlie

[leon]

Hi Charlie;

I tried a liquid metal because the truck sides are cast white metal. They are really thin and the I found out that the least little pressure will cause them to break! (I found this out the hard way) So I am in the process of trying to find some sort of replacement trucks. The problem with this is--the couplers turn with the trucks. (I hope you are familiar with the Spectrum line of passenger cars) This would require some re-engineering.

Thanks; Leon

[Mike Kieran]

My father had the same problem with an O Scale Interurban with a set of trucks that he picked up at a traction meet. He ended up drilling a hole where he wanted the journal to rest, put in tubing to act as a journal rolling bearing, and filled in the old hole with epoxy. The ruling grade for the interurban line in the train club that he belonged to had something like an 8 or 10% grade. The interurbans were weighed heavily for tractive effort to make it up the grade.

[nachoman]

Seems I had a couple of trucks once with the same problem. I think I just got new trucks. Other than that - the options are to either find an axle that is slightly longer, or shorten the bolster. You mentioned these were metal sideframe trucks? I am assuming you need to remove the sideframes from the bolsters in order to get the wheelsets out. Depending on the design, you may be able to remove the sideframes, file a little from each end of the bolster, and re-assemble. You may be able to repair the broken sideframe with JB weld.

[leon]

Hello Kevin;

The problem is with Bachmann. They don't sell parts for the passenger cars. As for buying other trucks, well these trucks are attached to the knuckle coupler by a rod system which move the coupler side to side as the trucks turn. I am now in the process of waiting for the glue to dry on the side frames. I also am trying to re-enforce them with some plastic strip. Will try to file a small slot in the bottom of the side frame up towards the axle pocket to help remove the strain when installing the wheel axles. Who knows--just have to try something before completely reworking the truck AND coupler.

Lenny

[modelsof1900]

Hello lenny,

I have inserted new axle bearings available from Tichy in truck side frames. Here a picture.



These parts are looking on right side - at the clear nylon injection sprue.
The original bearings should be drilled by a fitting drill bit and with drilling the right depth in frames and so you will get a durable solution.
The only problem - the truck side frames should be removable from bolsters. And there I am not sure whether is possible with these Bachmann trucks.

[Sumpter250]

Leon, If you have one of the axle tools from micro mart you could fill the axle socket one side at a time with a compatible plastic and recut the bearing surface. You would have to do this one side at a time letting the plastic cure on the one side, then cut the bearing, then do the other side. The other and best way would be to replace the trucks.
Charlie

Walthers carried a coupler mount that attached to the floor of the car, and had a spring loaded arm that acted in about the same way as the arm mounted/cast as part of the truck. I used those on some scratchbuilt Auto Racks. The axle TOOL, is a highly recommended addition to any one's tool box....I have two of them...one in the "home" box, and one in the smaller portable box that I take to shows..."just in case".
I would personally add to Charlie B's comment.... find a replacement truck set, and then, see if you can figure out a way to fix the old one. If you "mess the old one up, beyond belief" , so be it, put the new trucks on.
I have really messed up a few things in the past, but have eventually figured out how to fix the mistakes. Aside from being able to use those things again, I have "learned". I feel sorry for the people "who have never made a mistake", they've never really learned anything.
My "signature" is what it is, because It Works For Me.

[joannablack]

Just get new trucks. Other than that - the choices are to either find a hub that is somewhat more, or abbreviate the reinforce.