149th Street Harlem Station

[bdw9535]

Matt,

Great looking tug and nicely done weathering.

Bruce

[teejay]

Very nice !

[TrainNut]

I've got a Sylvan tug like that that's been sitting in a box for years now... not even started. Inspiration! I've also got a laker class trawler that needs built as well.

[shortliner]

I DO like that low level shot - very effective

[Twist]

Hi,

that is fantastic. Great weathering on that rolling stock. All is coming together very nice.

Regards;Chris

[sailormatlac]

Thanks guys!

I'm actually in the process of detailing two boxcab shells. Can't wait to see #19 and #20 in action. By the way, I only have one motor so the shells will be swapped.

Matt

[shortliner]

Matt - Put Underground ernie electric loco into <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.Ebay.co.uk">http://www.Ebay.co.uk</a><!-- m --> - These are what I used to power the ones that Reinhard used - you need to throw away the googly-eyes mechanism and make a plasticard floor, but they are very cheap and work well for the purpose. Only one half of the two units has a motor. Info about 2/3 of the way down this page

[sailormatlac]

Matt - Put Underground ernie electric loco into <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.Ebay.co.uk">http://www.Ebay.co.uk</a><!-- m --> - These are what I used to power the ones that Reinhard used - you need to throw away the googly-eyes mechanism and make a plasticard floor, but they are very cheap and work well for the purpose. Only one half of the two units has a motor. Info about 2/3 of the way down this page

Jack, you sent me one of these drive with the Roundhouse shells. I reused my GE 44-ton drive because both trucks are motorized. But both drives share commons parts and similar mechanism. I swapped the small GE wheels with the Underground ones which had the correct diameter.

Matt

[shortliner]

Hi Matt - I couldn't remember if there had been one of those drives in your parcel - glad you made them work for you

[Tyson Rayles]

[sailormatlac]

A new car ready to hit the rails of Harlem Station. It is a stock Athearn 40ft boxcar repainted with Krylon Red oxyde primer and lettered using CDS Lettering dry transfer. I didn't care to improve the details because it is intended for heavy operation (that 3 ft rule!). It was lightly weathered to reflect a three year old car in regular service.



To apply the dry transfer I tried using a paper blending stump. It works wonder. Its relative softness makes it excellent to rub letters over rivets and raised details. It's relativement large surface helps to apply a very uniform pressure and to apply large artwork easily. Very recommended and cost almost nothing at craft stores.



Weathering was done using acrylic washes, India ink + alcohol and weathering powders.



I also added a bunch of Walthers old time coal conveyor. Very nice little models that can be built in the blink of an eye.



They bring life to the scene.





Matt

[doctorwayne]

Nice results, Matt.

Where burnishing is difficult due to surface irregularities, you can also use Solvaset to settle dry transfers - it actually works better than with decals, as there's no decal film with which to contend.

Wayne

[sailormatlac]

New foobies for Harlem made from lightly customized Walthers twin-bay hoppers (I had to rebuild the ladders out of styrene). CDS Dry Transfer once again (I'm getting addicted I think!).







Matt

[Steve]

Matt,
I love the weathering on the boxcars and conveyors!

I still have never weathered any of my boxcars.....is an airbrush necessary?...if so I need to get one

[sailormatlac]

Matt,
I love the weathering on the boxcars and convors!

I still have never weathered any of my boxcars.....is an airbrush necessary?...if so I need to get one

Steve,

I'm amidst a weathering spree right now, turning out 5 cars per day. Fortunately, only 15 to go.

An airbrush is handing but not required at all if you use oil, pastel and weathering powder, To some extent, you have much more control over what you are doing. But Dullcote is required. There's a lot of tutorial online about weathering without an airbrush. Personaly, I do both, but wouldn't say one method is superior. It's always a mix of several layers: fading the paint, adding grime, weathering small details, etc.

If you have some junk cars, try your hand on it, find a good prototype picture and give it a try. It's far less intimidating it looks and given your era, you don't have to go overboard with rust buckets.

Weathering in the steam era/transition era is far less tricky.

Matt