Has anyone built a "swayback" structure ?

[teejay]

Once I finish up on a few things I'm doing , I'd like to scratch a storage type shed .....at first I was thinking quonset hut but then saw a nicely modeled swayback building . I'm wondering about the roof , do you break the main roof beam before proceeding or perhaps soak the wood and gently bend it ?.....or ?

T

[ngauger]

Here's a thread at the Railroad line Forum:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9182&whichpage=3">http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topi ... hichpage=3</a><!-- m -->

[teejay]

Thanks Mikey ....I saw that one , it uses styrene , and I think there is a more effective look using wood . Any of the really well done images I see on line are wood structures .

[MountainMan]

From what I have read, including some of the concepts of John Allen (Gorre & Depheted), you have to actually build a structure or a car with the swayback built into the construction. Building it normally and then trying to change it leads to breakage, frustration and certain words we cannot talk about here!

So for a swayback roof, once you have the "sway" figured out, you would then need to proceed with framing members already adapted to the degree of sag or curvature you want, and then adapt your roofing material to fit.

If the four corners of the roof are stable, but only the peak is to receive this treatment - a sag in the middle, for example - this is relatively easy. Make a foam model of the triangular roof and file down the middle to assume the curve or sag you want and then roof it over. This will give you a strong, stable structure you can handle, move, clear or whatever, and your "sag" will remain where you put it, and no one will see the foam after the actual roofing goes on. With a little practice, you should be able to make it sag in more than one direction using this method.

[teejay]

Hmmm , interesting , I hadn't thought of using foam . I have a piece of balsa I was considering shaping and using for the main beam . I agree , the " breaking method " is the least desirable . I'll give the foam idea more consideration .

[Prairie Trains]

I use Campbell shingles on card stock on some of my roofs. When you apply them you have to use a couple of sheets of wax paper and a heavy flat weight to keep them from warping while they dry. If you let them warp a little it gives a sagged look. Its hard to see in these photos but it is easy to see on the layout. If you want a sagged ridge line you could trim the ridge line in a sleight curve to bring it down.

[teejay]

This would be more the direction I'm looking to build ....ramshackle but still usable , not derelict


   

[MasonJar]

I think Models of 1900 did a swayback car in wood. I'll look for the thread and post a link here.

Andrew

[teejay]

I gave Karl Ozolinski a shout .....he built me a sway back box car many years ago ........and he suggested fitting the main beam to the inside of the end walls and to use balsa for the beam . I guess he glues the beam in place first and then shapes it . Karl is one of the finest HO modelers on the planet so I guess he knows what he's talking about !

[teejay]

The basis for my structure ...4 main walls ...is an Alder Models resin kit . There is talk of cleaning the resin surface with " ResinPrep " . I'm going to be using an oil based paint ....can I clean surfaces with something other than ResinPre ? I'm trying to avoid buying anything these days , but I also want the paint to adhere properly , given the release agents they use when making the resin pieces .

Any other suggestions ? They say soap and water won't do the trick .

T

[MasonJar]

At long last, here is the swayback car I was thinking of... Turns out it is for sale. Follow the link to a description of how Modelsof1900 made it. <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://bigbluetrains.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8932">viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8932</a><!-- l -->

Andrew

[doctorwayne]

The basis for my structure ...4 main walls ...is an Alder Models resin kit . There is talk of cleaning the resin surface with " ResinPrep " . I'm going to be using an oil based paint ....can I clean surfaces with something other than ResinPre ? I'm trying to avoid buying anything these days , but I also want the paint to adhere properly , given the release agents they use when making the resin pieces .

Any other suggestions ? They say soap and water won't do the trick .

T

Try lacquer thinner (but only on what will be an unseen area). I've used it to clean Sylvan resin kits, but pieces with a small cross section can sometimes be deformed by over-exposure. A quick splash over the part, then rinse or wash in water with dish detergent. Another option might be 99% alcohol.

Wayne

[Tyson Rayles]

"Has anyone built a "swayback" structure ?"


I married one, does that count?

[teejay]

Say What ?