09-22-2018, 12:30 AM
Some more progress on the Fowler boxcars...I had originally cemented the weights to the cars' floors, but decided it would be better if they were screwed in place, as once the cars are painted and assembled, the sill steps at the corners need to be installed. While they're supposedly snap-in plastic ones, I found that they stay in place better when glue is used, but because they're made of Delrin, there's not much choice in glues which will work.
On a hunch, based on a good experience with Weldbond glue, I tried it on a similar car already in service, and discovered that it holds the steps extremely well. It also holds the underbody firmly in place, so with the weights screwed-down, there'll be no need to open the car again.
I chose to modify all of the cars further, although not all to the same degree or same particular changes. All cars got similar end details though, including free-standing wire grabirons, loop-type wire brackets to prevent the brake staff from falling off if it gets bumped, and metal straps to support the overhanging ends of the roofwalks
Three of the cars got their original single grabirons, on the left end of the cars' sides, replaced with wire ones...
...and another three got the same, but with a second grabiron added (a safety measure introduced in the mid-'30s, with a fairly broad timeframe for railroads to comply)...
The remaining four cars got the same upgrade, but one got Youngstown-type doors (modified doors from Athearn Blue Box boxcars)...
...another got similar-style doors, but from an unknown resin kit...
...while the remaining two received 3-panel CRECO doors (leftovers from some Red Caboose X-29 boxcars...
I had originally planned to fill-in the recently-created door openings with thick sheet styrene, as backing for the new doors, but because they were well-supported at the top and bottom, and at one side, all that was required was a single strip of heavy styrene at the side of the doorstop...
The 10 modelled cars will represent a 100 car order, so car numbers on them will likely be widely-spaced. For now, they're off to the kitchen sink for their pre-paint bath.
Wayne
On a hunch, based on a good experience with Weldbond glue, I tried it on a similar car already in service, and discovered that it holds the steps extremely well. It also holds the underbody firmly in place, so with the weights screwed-down, there'll be no need to open the car again.
I chose to modify all of the cars further, although not all to the same degree or same particular changes. All cars got similar end details though, including free-standing wire grabirons, loop-type wire brackets to prevent the brake staff from falling off if it gets bumped, and metal straps to support the overhanging ends of the roofwalks
Three of the cars got their original single grabirons, on the left end of the cars' sides, replaced with wire ones...
...and another three got the same, but with a second grabiron added (a safety measure introduced in the mid-'30s, with a fairly broad timeframe for railroads to comply)...
The remaining four cars got the same upgrade, but one got Youngstown-type doors (modified doors from Athearn Blue Box boxcars)...
...another got similar-style doors, but from an unknown resin kit...
...while the remaining two received 3-panel CRECO doors (leftovers from some Red Caboose X-29 boxcars...
I had originally planned to fill-in the recently-created door openings with thick sheet styrene, as backing for the new doors, but because they were well-supported at the top and bottom, and at one side, all that was required was a single strip of heavy styrene at the side of the doorstop...
The 10 modelled cars will represent a 100 car order, so car numbers on them will likely be widely-spaced. For now, they're off to the kitchen sink for their pre-paint bath.
Wayne