10-05-2021, 12:51 AM
Good to hear from you, George.
I use pre-mixed drywall mud for the mortar effect. A small tub of it goes a long way. I use a rag over my fingertip(s), dip into the mud and spread it over the brickwork. It is a bit of a nuisance if there's projecting details, especially on the fronts of many of those DPM structures, which often make it difficult to get the mud on the brick areas without getting it all over the places that don't need mortar, such as the faux iron-front details that were all the vogue from the mid-eighteen hundreds, and well into the 20th century.
However, once the mud dries, the excess is removed from the brick, using a clean rag over your fingertips...if possible, work outdoors, so that you can periodically shake-out the cloth (stand up-wind when doing this).
To clean the excess mud off those bulky details, I use a couple of X-Acto knives, one a regular #11, and a couple of chisel-type blades, to gently scrape away the stuff that shouldn't be there.
Once the mortar is in the brick detail, and removed from the areas where it shouldn't be, the non-brick areas can be painted. In most cases I prefer to use a brush, as it usually eliminates the need for masking.
Before installing window "glass", I've lately decided to airbrush Dullcote over at least all of the areas where there's brick, but it won't hurt to do the non-brick areas, too.
The reason for the Dullcote is mostly to prevent water-based weathering washes from removing the "mortar".
If you use chalk or oil-based pastels for weathering, the Dullcote probably isn't necessary. I'm not sure about weathering with India ink...I've had no problems with it when thinned with water, but using alcohol as a thinner (which can also be a paint remover) may require some caution.
When the drywall mud has been applied to the areas of brick, and has dried, the excess can be rubbed-off quite vigorously without removing it from the places where it's supposed to be.
Wayne
I use pre-mixed drywall mud for the mortar effect. A small tub of it goes a long way. I use a rag over my fingertip(s), dip into the mud and spread it over the brickwork. It is a bit of a nuisance if there's projecting details, especially on the fronts of many of those DPM structures, which often make it difficult to get the mud on the brick areas without getting it all over the places that don't need mortar, such as the faux iron-front details that were all the vogue from the mid-eighteen hundreds, and well into the 20th century.
However, once the mud dries, the excess is removed from the brick, using a clean rag over your fingertips...if possible, work outdoors, so that you can periodically shake-out the cloth (stand up-wind when doing this).
To clean the excess mud off those bulky details, I use a couple of X-Acto knives, one a regular #11, and a couple of chisel-type blades, to gently scrape away the stuff that shouldn't be there.
Once the mortar is in the brick detail, and removed from the areas where it shouldn't be, the non-brick areas can be painted. In most cases I prefer to use a brush, as it usually eliminates the need for masking.
Before installing window "glass", I've lately decided to airbrush Dullcote over at least all of the areas where there's brick, but it won't hurt to do the non-brick areas, too.
The reason for the Dullcote is mostly to prevent water-based weathering washes from removing the "mortar".
If you use chalk or oil-based pastels for weathering, the Dullcote probably isn't necessary. I'm not sure about weathering with India ink...I've had no problems with it when thinned with water, but using alcohol as a thinner (which can also be a paint remover) may require some caution.
(10-04-2021, 08:44 PM)deckroid Wrote: ...I like the chalk method, but then when I go to spray a clear coat to fix it, even on low pressure, my airbrush blows a lot of it off.....
When the drywall mud has been applied to the areas of brick, and has dried, the excess can be rubbed-off quite vigorously without removing it from the places where it's supposed to be.
Wayne