Juneco Two stall enginehouse
Well I colored the walls over the past couple days:

I started with staining the outer walls with an alcohol and india ink stain to weather it.


Then I brush painted the walls with Depot Buff. Not enough to fully cover the staining in places. I want the look of a weathered industrial building. 
I also took some time and airbrushed all the windows and doors in Boxcar red.


A painted wall with the doors and windows loosely fitted. I wasn't completely sold on the color choice I had made at first. I had briefly considered just airbrushing all the walls in boxcar red to match the windows.
I definitely think the red windows on normal wood looks excellent
Modeling the East Broad Top as it was between 1937-1942
Nice progress. The windows and doors look great.
Silence is golden but Duct tape is silver
Ridley Keystone & Mountain Railroad
My Rail Images Gallery
Thanks. I think the color combination has grown on me so I'll keep it. I do think I should tone down/ weather the window and doors a bit though, probably drybrushing a lighter color would work.
Well this past week was a case of two steps forward, one step back. 
I started by staining the inside walls using testors stainFX pine:


Then I started to install the window and doors. I found that they were a bit too new looking so I brushed a bit of thinned umber on the frames.


Then the problem started to show
Since I decided on the color combination I noticed that almost all the walls had a slight bow in them but when I stained the inside, the bow became more pronounced.


So to correct this I added some extra stringers to the length on the walls, weighting them down with a steel block, by cordless drill and my cordless impact. This time I used Weldbond glue to attach the stringers instead of the Aileen's Tacky glue.


When that was done the walls were flat again. I'll stain the stringers later when the walls go up to ensure that they don't warp again. 


With that I finished installing all the windows and doors.
Just a bit more progress over the last night.


I airbrushed some boxcar red onto the main doors. After that dried I used my handy fiberglass brush to scratch the paint down a bit to knock down the wood 'fuzz' and it also makes a slightly softer tone to the paint. The pair on the left have been worked over by the fiberglass brush, the ones on the right are waiting their turn.


I also brush painted the large door's frames and finished off adding the windows and doors to the office wall.


I painted the office interior in depot buff. I'm thinking of adding a bit more framing around the windows in both the office and enginehouse. I have a feeling that the bottom joint between the windows and wall will have some light leaks when I light it so It's best to fix that now with some stripwood framing.
I added some interior framing around the windows:

I used a mix or 2X6 and 2X8 which might be a bit of overkill on sizing but this is a larger industrial structure. 
I also depleted my stock of both sizes so I'll have to add those to my future shopping list.


Then I could finally put the window glass in. I used a product called Gallery Glass:


A liquid that was made for stained glass and suncatcher hobbyists I just applied it to the indiviual panes and let it dry. I believe Goerge Sielios uses this product on his builds.

I did have an accident on the first window that I did. Some of the 'glass' got onto the front of the frames so I'll have to be creative and fix it.
A bit of a cheat to fix the window:

I cut a piece of thin siding to represent a boarded up window and stained it with some A&I.
With the walls now done, I can actually start building the structure on the base.
I really like that glass stuff. Could you use it to make passenger car windows, do you think?
Modeling the East Broad Top as it was between 1937-1942
I don't know if it would work that way, experimentation sounds like the way to go.

I got the walls up on both the enginehouse and the rear office.

I started with one side wall and rear wall. I used weldbond glue for this assembly as it needs to be fairly tough. I did have to notch the extra stringers that I used to straighten the side walls so they would mate with the ends.

When I glued the other side wall and the front wall on I used my calipers to make sure the two ends were 'square' or at least the same width.  


With the main building done, I put up the walls for the office. I'm trying to make everything as square as possible because the roof is designed to be removable and that would depend on the structure being as squarely built as possible.



That being said, I did find gaps and some flaws in the wall joints that needed to be fixed.


So I used some extra stripwood to fill. Some paint and it hides the 'flaws' like that were never there.


The final job was to paint the extra wall stringers and the gap filling stripwood.
Next I'll be building the roof trusses and the car-shop lean-to.
Great job!
Silence is golden but Duct tape is silver
Ridley Keystone & Mountain Railroad
My Rail Images Gallery
Thank you Tom.
I added the car shop lean-to today, starting with the roof truss support:

I was supposed to install this piece when I built the wall but I wasn't sure which side wall was going to be a which side. I used a series of clamps to hold it in place as the glue dried overnight.

Then I installed the carshop wall, I used some heavy square weaights to ensure that the wall was straight as the glue dried.


The roof trusses installed. I had to custom cut each one as I had added the extra stringer to this wall as I had done with the side walls to keep they flat.


Almost ready for the roof. 
The kit comes with basswood panels to be used on the roof but I'm thinking of using cardstock to keep the warping potential to a minimum, based on my currnet track record on this model.


The car shop roof is kind of low. My accurail boxcar barely slides under. I'll have to keep that in mind when I operate on the layout.

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