https://bigbluetrains.com/ Fri, 17 Apr 2026 06:59:52 +0000 MyBB https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10262 Fri, 03 Apr 2026 22:50:11 +0000 cnrglen]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10262

  DSCF1905.JPG (Size: 287.2 KB / Downloads: 117)

However when I opened the box I had my doubts.


  DSCF1906.JPG (Size: 350.36 KB / Downloads: 104)

The wood content in the box seems a bit thin. I do believe that all the metal castings are present and that's what it most important.


  DSCF1911.JPG (Size: 309.04 KB / Downloads: 106)

It is a pretty small sawmil. The footprint is about 4 X 7". Mostly I'm thinking it's a rough-cut sawmill that supplies the logging camp's needs and sends surplus rough cuts to other customers.


  DSCF1907.JPG (Size: 351.83 KB / Downloads: 104)

The first step is to build the foundation beams. A quick inventory of the wood strips  and I found that all those parts were missing. 


  DSCF1908.JPG (Size: 317.9 KB / Downloads: 104)

I did have a pack of scale 8X8 from Mt. Albert scale lumber that fit that was the same size. 


  DSCF1910.JPG (Size: 330.94 KB / Downloads: 106)

I cut all the parts needed and thay went into an Alcohol and India Ink bath. They're currently drying before I start assembly.]]>

  DSCF1905.JPG (Size: 287.2 KB / Downloads: 117)

However when I opened the box I had my doubts.


  DSCF1906.JPG (Size: 350.36 KB / Downloads: 104)

The wood content in the box seems a bit thin. I do believe that all the metal castings are present and that's what it most important.


  DSCF1911.JPG (Size: 309.04 KB / Downloads: 106)

It is a pretty small sawmil. The footprint is about 4 X 7". Mostly I'm thinking it's a rough-cut sawmill that supplies the logging camp's needs and sends surplus rough cuts to other customers.


  DSCF1907.JPG (Size: 351.83 KB / Downloads: 104)

The first step is to build the foundation beams. A quick inventory of the wood strips  and I found that all those parts were missing. 


  DSCF1908.JPG (Size: 317.9 KB / Downloads: 104)

I did have a pack of scale 8X8 from Mt. Albert scale lumber that fit that was the same size. 


  DSCF1910.JPG (Size: 330.94 KB / Downloads: 106)

I cut all the parts needed and thay went into an Alcohol and India Ink bath. They're currently drying before I start assembly.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10256 Wed, 11 Mar 2026 15:28:24 +0000 Ensign]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10256 Ed no longer sells his kit, but they are still available from "Railroad kits"
Here's what the kit looks like out of the box.


  _DSC3009.jpg (Size: 83.31 KB / Downloads: 130)

The base for the drug store has sidewalks around all 4 sides.
So not needing sidewalks on all 4 sides I carefully cut off 2 of them.
I then glued a piece of styrene to the bottom of this base for extra strength.


  _DSC3010.jpg (Size: 125.43 KB / Downloads: 130)


  _DSC3011.jpg (Size: 119.25 KB / Downloads: 122)

The kit's walls are beautifully detailed with all window and door openings closed.
The kit's instuctions suggest just painting these closed openings black, and then glue the window & door castings over top.
However I wanted to light & add an interior to my store, so I carefully cut out the front walls window & door openings.
I the used 5 minute epoxy to glue the walls together.
I did not glue the walls down to the base.


  _DSC3012.jpg (Size: 96.76 KB / Downloads: 125)


  _DSC3013.jpg (Size: 114.55 KB / Downloads: 122)

Hydrocal is very absorbent so I seal all of my castings with white spray paint first, to help take away most of that absorbency.
You do this by applying several light coats of spray paint, trying not to obscure any of the cast in detail of the bricks.
I then start to apply the paint used to colour the brick. The first colour I used is "Craft smart" Terra Cotta.


  _DSC3023.jpg (Size: 118.01 KB / Downloads: 122)

I then use "Americana" Burnt Sienna thinned out with water as a second wash over top of the Terra Cotta.
It is very important to allow each coat of paint to dry throughly.
I then painted the odd brick here & there with a slightly darker tone.
Then I painted all of the window & door openings & trim using 2 different colours of green.
I also glued into place all of the widows & door castings into their openings.


  _DSC3160.jpg (Size: 163.87 KB / Downloads: 119)

I then added the sign above the front door and to the sidewall.
I then tried using "Robert's Brick Mortar Formula" to the brickwalls.


  _DSC3161.jpg (Size: 191.94 KB / Downloads: 120)

I then went to work creating an interior and LED lighting to this store.
This is how it all came out looking in the end.


  _DSC3180.jpg (Size: 103.89 KB / Downloads: 119)


  _DSC3174.jpg (Size: 103.84 KB / Downloads: 120)


  _DSC3185.jpg (Size: 63.35 KB / Downloads: 120)

Thanks for having a look.

Greg













I then use a thinned out with water "Americana" Burnt Sienna over top of my Terra Cotta.
It is important to allow each coat of paint to dry completely.
I then painted up all of the other details of this drug store using 2 different shades of green.
Also installing all of the window & door castings into their openings.]]> Ed no longer sells his kit, but they are still available from "Railroad kits"
Here's what the kit looks like out of the box.


  _DSC3009.jpg (Size: 83.31 KB / Downloads: 130)

The base for the drug store has sidewalks around all 4 sides.
So not needing sidewalks on all 4 sides I carefully cut off 2 of them.
I then glued a piece of styrene to the bottom of this base for extra strength.


  _DSC3010.jpg (Size: 125.43 KB / Downloads: 130)


  _DSC3011.jpg (Size: 119.25 KB / Downloads: 122)

The kit's walls are beautifully detailed with all window and door openings closed.
The kit's instuctions suggest just painting these closed openings black, and then glue the window & door castings over top.
However I wanted to light & add an interior to my store, so I carefully cut out the front walls window & door openings.
I the used 5 minute epoxy to glue the walls together.
I did not glue the walls down to the base.


  _DSC3012.jpg (Size: 96.76 KB / Downloads: 125)


  _DSC3013.jpg (Size: 114.55 KB / Downloads: 122)

Hydrocal is very absorbent so I seal all of my castings with white spray paint first, to help take away most of that absorbency.
You do this by applying several light coats of spray paint, trying not to obscure any of the cast in detail of the bricks.
I then start to apply the paint used to colour the brick. The first colour I used is "Craft smart" Terra Cotta.


  _DSC3023.jpg (Size: 118.01 KB / Downloads: 122)

I then use "Americana" Burnt Sienna thinned out with water as a second wash over top of the Terra Cotta.
It is very important to allow each coat of paint to dry throughly.
I then painted the odd brick here & there with a slightly darker tone.
Then I painted all of the window & door openings & trim using 2 different colours of green.
I also glued into place all of the widows & door castings into their openings.


  _DSC3160.jpg (Size: 163.87 KB / Downloads: 119)

I then added the sign above the front door and to the sidewall.
I then tried using "Robert's Brick Mortar Formula" to the brickwalls.


  _DSC3161.jpg (Size: 191.94 KB / Downloads: 120)

I then went to work creating an interior and LED lighting to this store.
This is how it all came out looking in the end.


  _DSC3180.jpg (Size: 103.89 KB / Downloads: 119)


  _DSC3174.jpg (Size: 103.84 KB / Downloads: 120)


  _DSC3185.jpg (Size: 63.35 KB / Downloads: 120)

Thanks for having a look.

Greg













I then use a thinned out with water "Americana" Burnt Sienna over top of my Terra Cotta.
It is important to allow each coat of paint to dry completely.
I then painted up all of the other details of this drug store using 2 different shades of green.
Also installing all of the window & door castings into their openings.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10255 Tue, 10 Mar 2026 03:17:22 +0000 zzrguy]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10255 There’s something special about bringing an old train back to life. In this project, we’re kicking off the build of a full Overton passenger train consist, starting with a budget-friendly steam locomotive that turned out to be much more of a project than expected.
What began as a quick repair quickly turned into a deep dive into decoder troubleshooting, wiring fixes, and future lighting upgrades. And honestly—that’s part of what makes model railroading so rewarding.
This is the start of a series that will cover everything from locomotive electronics to detailed passenger interiors.
Let’s get into it.

---

The Train Show Find
Like many great model railroad projects, this one started at a train show.
I picked up a small steam locomotive for an unbelievable price. At first glance it looked like it would just need a quick fix—replace a plug, test it on the track, and get it running again.
Of course… it didn’t turn out that simple.
Once I opened it up, it became clear that there were a few issues hiding inside:

• Decoder problems
  
• Wiring that needed attention
  
• Some questionable previous work
  

Instead of a quick repair, it became a full troubleshooting session.
But that’s part of the fun—figuring out what’s going on and bringing a piece of equipment back to life.

---

Starting the Overton Passenger Consist
While the locomotive work was underway, the real goal of this project started to take shape: building a complete Overton passenger train.
Overton cars are classic short passenger cars that look fantastic behind small steam engines. They’re perfect for smaller layouts and branch-line operations.
The build will include:

• Installing passenger interiors
  
• Painting and detailing seats and walls
  
• Preparing cars for lighting
  
• Final assembly and detailing
  

Even though some of the interior details may barely be visible once the roofs go on, they still matter.
Because you’ll know they’re there.

---

Installing Passenger Car Interiors
The first step in the car builds is installing interior kits.
This involves:

• Fitting the interior components
  
• Making sure everything clears the trucks and couplers
  
• Preparing surfaces for paint
  

Interior kits add a huge amount of realism, especially once lighting is installed.
Without lighting, interiors can be hard to see—but once illuminated, the difference is night and day.

---

Passenger Car Lighting Plans
Lighting is a major part of this build.
The plan is to install LED strip lighting inside the passenger cars so the interiors can actually be seen during operation.
Key goals for the lighting:

• Even illumination throughout the car
  
• Minimal wiring clutter
  
• Reliable electrical pickup
  
• Warm, realistic light color
  

Good passenger car lighting can transform a train from something that just rolls around the layout into something that feels like a real operating train.

---

Painting Interior Details
One of the most satisfying parts of these builds is painting the interiors.
Even though the details may be subtle, painting seats, floors, and walls adds depth and realism.
It’s one of those things that might not jump out immediately—but it makes a huge difference when the cars are lit and rolling behind the locomotive.
Sometimes the best details are the ones that viewers almost miss.

---

What’s Coming Next in the Series
This Overton build is just getting started. Future episodes will cover:
✔ Decoder diagnostics and replacement options
✔ Installing the firebox flicker effect
✔ Passenger car interior kits
✔ LED lighting installs
✔ Painting and detailing techniques
✔ Assembling the full Overton consist
By the end of the project, the goal is to have a fully detailed, illuminated passenger train that looks fantastic both up close and running on the layout.

---

Final Thoughts
Projects like this are what model railroading is all about.
Sometimes you start with a quick repair… and it turns into a full rebuild. But that’s where you learn the most and improve your skills along the way.
From decoder troubleshooting to custom lighting installs, this Overton train build is shaping up to be a really fun journey.
And we’re just getting started.

---

If you enjoy hands-on model railroading, kitbashing, and realistic upgrades, stay tuned—there’s a lot more coming in this series.
? The Overton is about to roll.

]]> There’s something special about bringing an old train back to life. In this project, we’re kicking off the build of a full Overton passenger train consist, starting with a budget-friendly steam locomotive that turned out to be much more of a project than expected.
What began as a quick repair quickly turned into a deep dive into decoder troubleshooting, wiring fixes, and future lighting upgrades. And honestly—that’s part of what makes model railroading so rewarding.
This is the start of a series that will cover everything from locomotive electronics to detailed passenger interiors.
Let’s get into it.

---

The Train Show Find
Like many great model railroad projects, this one started at a train show.
I picked up a small steam locomotive for an unbelievable price. At first glance it looked like it would just need a quick fix—replace a plug, test it on the track, and get it running again.
Of course… it didn’t turn out that simple.
Once I opened it up, it became clear that there were a few issues hiding inside:

• Decoder problems
  
• Wiring that needed attention
  
• Some questionable previous work
  

Instead of a quick repair, it became a full troubleshooting session.
But that’s part of the fun—figuring out what’s going on and bringing a piece of equipment back to life.

---

Starting the Overton Passenger Consist
While the locomotive work was underway, the real goal of this project started to take shape: building a complete Overton passenger train.
Overton cars are classic short passenger cars that look fantastic behind small steam engines. They’re perfect for smaller layouts and branch-line operations.
The build will include:

• Installing passenger interiors
  
• Painting and detailing seats and walls
  
• Preparing cars for lighting
  
• Final assembly and detailing
  

Even though some of the interior details may barely be visible once the roofs go on, they still matter.
Because you’ll know they’re there.

---

Installing Passenger Car Interiors
The first step in the car builds is installing interior kits.
This involves:

• Fitting the interior components
  
• Making sure everything clears the trucks and couplers
  
• Preparing surfaces for paint
  

Interior kits add a huge amount of realism, especially once lighting is installed.
Without lighting, interiors can be hard to see—but once illuminated, the difference is night and day.

---

Passenger Car Lighting Plans
Lighting is a major part of this build.
The plan is to install LED strip lighting inside the passenger cars so the interiors can actually be seen during operation.
Key goals for the lighting:

• Even illumination throughout the car
  
• Minimal wiring clutter
  
• Reliable electrical pickup
  
• Warm, realistic light color
  

Good passenger car lighting can transform a train from something that just rolls around the layout into something that feels like a real operating train.

---

Painting Interior Details
One of the most satisfying parts of these builds is painting the interiors.
Even though the details may be subtle, painting seats, floors, and walls adds depth and realism.
It’s one of those things that might not jump out immediately—but it makes a huge difference when the cars are lit and rolling behind the locomotive.
Sometimes the best details are the ones that viewers almost miss.

---

What’s Coming Next in the Series
This Overton build is just getting started. Future episodes will cover:
✔ Decoder diagnostics and replacement options
✔ Installing the firebox flicker effect
✔ Passenger car interior kits
✔ LED lighting installs
✔ Painting and detailing techniques
✔ Assembling the full Overton consist
By the end of the project, the goal is to have a fully detailed, illuminated passenger train that looks fantastic both up close and running on the layout.

---

Final Thoughts
Projects like this are what model railroading is all about.
Sometimes you start with a quick repair… and it turns into a full rebuild. But that’s where you learn the most and improve your skills along the way.
From decoder troubleshooting to custom lighting installs, this Overton train build is shaping up to be a really fun journey.
And we’re just getting started.

---

If you enjoy hands-on model railroading, kitbashing, and realistic upgrades, stay tuned—there’s a lot more coming in this series.
? The Overton is about to roll.

]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10240 Sun, 18 Jan 2026 17:39:13 +0000 cnrglen]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10240

  DSCF1827.JPG (Size: 318.62 KB / Downloads: 245)

Interaction Hobbies just released this kit a month ago and I just had to have it. It's a mobile diner on the back of a 1955 Cheverolet Cab over truck. It comes with a complete 3-d printer interior.


  DSCF1828.JPG (Size: 354.81 KB / Downloads: 253)

The kit is a mix of laser cut and 3-d printed parts. It includes signage as well.

 
  DSCF1829.JPG (Size: 338.61 KB / Downloads: 247)

The truck cab, interior chassis and wheels are 3-d printed. It's a good looking truck that could be used as a flatdeck on it's own.


  DSCF1830.JPG (Size: 298.11 KB / Downloads: 251)

I spent the first few days of construction painting parts and preping for construction. I decided to paint the truck in a teal instead of blue. It's more of a late 50's-early 60's color.
I first removed the cab and interior from their carrier sheet. I't's fairly easy, I just broke one pin at a time until the parts come free.]]>

  DSCF1827.JPG (Size: 318.62 KB / Downloads: 245)

Interaction Hobbies just released this kit a month ago and I just had to have it. It's a mobile diner on the back of a 1955 Cheverolet Cab over truck. It comes with a complete 3-d printer interior.


  DSCF1828.JPG (Size: 354.81 KB / Downloads: 253)

The kit is a mix of laser cut and 3-d printed parts. It includes signage as well.

 
  DSCF1829.JPG (Size: 338.61 KB / Downloads: 247)

The truck cab, interior chassis and wheels are 3-d printed. It's a good looking truck that could be used as a flatdeck on it's own.


  DSCF1830.JPG (Size: 298.11 KB / Downloads: 251)

I spent the first few days of construction painting parts and preping for construction. I decided to paint the truck in a teal instead of blue. It's more of a late 50's-early 60's color.
I first removed the cab and interior from their carrier sheet. I't's fairly easy, I just broke one pin at a time until the parts come free.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10123 Sun, 21 Dec 2025 00:36:50 +0000 cnrglen]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10123

  DSCF1759 - Copy.JPG (Size: 319.11 KB / Downloads: 258)

Dissassembly is pretty easy, just 4 screws. The handrails and everything else is soldered together so the model has ro be painted as is.


  DSCF1760.JPG (Size: 337.84 KB / Downloads: 247)

I gave the body a quick scuff with some fine scotch bright and wiped it down with some isopropyl alcohol. I masked the drive parts before spraying with primer

  DSCF1766.JPG (Size: 298.03 KB / Downloads: 235)

I used some Tamiya metal primer and am now waiting for it to cure before painting the color.]]>

  DSCF1759 - Copy.JPG (Size: 319.11 KB / Downloads: 258)

Dissassembly is pretty easy, just 4 screws. The handrails and everything else is soldered together so the model has ro be painted as is.


  DSCF1760.JPG (Size: 337.84 KB / Downloads: 247)

I gave the body a quick scuff with some fine scotch bright and wiped it down with some isopropyl alcohol. I masked the drive parts before spraying with primer

  DSCF1766.JPG (Size: 298.03 KB / Downloads: 235)

I used some Tamiya metal primer and am now waiting for it to cure before painting the color.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10116 Thu, 11 Dec 2025 02:49:11 +0000 cnrglen]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10116

  20251007_055812.jpg (Size: 229.85 KB / Downloads: 211)

After finding out what it was I searched online to see if anyone had every painted/finished one but came up empty.
I decided just to paint and weather it as I figured it would have been:


  DSCF1768.JPG (Size: 260.55 KB / Downloads: 221)

I semi dry-brushed barn red onto the body, then painted the tarpaper patches with a grey-black. The windows were done in vintage white. I used three different tamiya wood colors on the boards.


  DSCF1769.JPG (Size: 262.04 KB / Downloads: 214)

I then used Tamiya's 'panel liner' in both black and brown as a wash to go between the boards and siding and add some depth.]]>

  20251007_055812.jpg (Size: 229.85 KB / Downloads: 211)

After finding out what it was I searched online to see if anyone had every painted/finished one but came up empty.
I decided just to paint and weather it as I figured it would have been:


  DSCF1768.JPG (Size: 260.55 KB / Downloads: 221)

I semi dry-brushed barn red onto the body, then painted the tarpaper patches with a grey-black. The windows were done in vintage white. I used three different tamiya wood colors on the boards.


  DSCF1769.JPG (Size: 262.04 KB / Downloads: 214)

I then used Tamiya's 'panel liner' in both black and brown as a wash to go between the boards and siding and add some depth.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10115 Sun, 07 Dec 2025 01:36:55 +0000 Ensign]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10115 The Chippy Hollow Hardware Co. However I changed my version of this kit into a tribute to the late great model railroader John Allen.
So the place is now called the John Allen monuments & statuary Co.
Here's how it came out looking.


  _DSC2992.jpg (Size: 104.41 KB / Downloads: 294)


  _DSC2993.jpg (Size: 126.87 KB / Downloads: 276)


  _DSC2994.jpg (Size: 89.11 KB / Downloads: 270)

I also added LED lighting to this structure, so here is how it looks at night.


  _DSC3003.jpg (Size: 66.32 KB / Downloads: 276)

Thanks for having a look!

Greg]]> The Chippy Hollow Hardware Co. However I changed my version of this kit into a tribute to the late great model railroader John Allen.
So the place is now called the John Allen monuments & statuary Co.
Here's how it came out looking.


  _DSC2992.jpg (Size: 104.41 KB / Downloads: 294)


  _DSC2993.jpg (Size: 126.87 KB / Downloads: 276)


  _DSC2994.jpg (Size: 89.11 KB / Downloads: 270)

I also added LED lighting to this structure, so here is how it looks at night.


  _DSC3003.jpg (Size: 66.32 KB / Downloads: 276)

Thanks for having a look!

Greg]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10093 Wed, 26 Nov 2025 03:25:39 +0000 jim currie]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10093 sorry fir the poor photo.

  100_0219.jpg (Size: 444.83 KB / Downloads: 197) ]]> sorry fir the poor photo.

  100_0219.jpg (Size: 444.83 KB / Downloads: 197) ]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10061 Tue, 02 Sep 2025 23:10:24 +0000 Ensign]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10061 These kits are just wonderful to build, especially if you like details like I do.
I added LED lighting to it, something that I would not have been able to do if I built it years ago.
So some good has come from waiting to build it. 
Using LED lighting and the hair like magnet wires now allow me to put lights in places that I never could using grain of wheat bulbs.
The kit comes with a full interior and the 2 roofs that cover this freight house are removable to allow you a better look inside.
So here is how my build of this kit came out looking.


  _DSC2880.jpg (Size: 101.63 KB / Downloads: 1693)


  _DSC2881.jpg (Size: 133.94 KB / Downloads: 1685)


  _DSC2884.jpg (Size: 74.44 KB / Downloads: 1642)


  _DSC2886.jpg (Size: 78.04 KB / Downloads: 1617)

Here's how the interior looks with the roofs removed and the LED's turned on.


  _DSC2876.jpg (Size: 95.7 KB / Downloads: 1666)


  _DSC2877.jpg (Size: 57.49 KB / Downloads: 1623)

Thanks for having a look!

Greg]]> These kits are just wonderful to build, especially if you like details like I do.
I added LED lighting to it, something that I would not have been able to do if I built it years ago.
So some good has come from waiting to build it. 
Using LED lighting and the hair like magnet wires now allow me to put lights in places that I never could using grain of wheat bulbs.
The kit comes with a full interior and the 2 roofs that cover this freight house are removable to allow you a better look inside.
So here is how my build of this kit came out looking.


  _DSC2880.jpg (Size: 101.63 KB / Downloads: 1693)


  _DSC2881.jpg (Size: 133.94 KB / Downloads: 1685)


  _DSC2884.jpg (Size: 74.44 KB / Downloads: 1642)


  _DSC2886.jpg (Size: 78.04 KB / Downloads: 1617)

Here's how the interior looks with the roofs removed and the LED's turned on.


  _DSC2876.jpg (Size: 95.7 KB / Downloads: 1666)


  _DSC2877.jpg (Size: 57.49 KB / Downloads: 1623)

Thanks for having a look!

Greg]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10024 Tue, 25 Mar 2025 14:50:23 +0000 cnrglen]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10024

  20250223_201207.jpg (Size: 372.76 KB / Downloads: 610)

To repaint into this:


  20250222_100940.jpg (Size: 366.06 KB / Downloads: 603)

I also have to rework both the crane and boom car to convert them from truck-mounted horn-hook couplers to body mounted Kadees. 

Wish me luck.....]]>

  20250223_201207.jpg (Size: 372.76 KB / Downloads: 610)

To repaint into this:


  20250222_100940.jpg (Size: 366.06 KB / Downloads: 603)

I also have to rework both the crane and boom car to convert them from truck-mounted horn-hook couplers to body mounted Kadees. 

Wish me luck.....]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10022 Fri, 21 Mar 2025 17:51:33 +0000 zzrguy]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10022
I'am at a point now to get started just need to find a source for some technical info mainly the Interior colors in the cars.  Is there anyone here that may have that info and some color pictures?



Thank you in advance.]]>
I'am at a point now to get started just need to find a source for some technical info mainly the Interior colors in the cars.  Is there anyone here that may have that info and some color pictures?



Thank you in advance.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10012 Tue, 28 Jan 2025 18:28:10 +0000 nachoman]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10012
Here is a Hobbytown of Boston E7 that I got in rough shape and missing parts.  I fixed it up and painted it and it runs great now!

  IMG_2922.jpeg (Size: 229.7 KB / Downloads: 395) ]]>
Here is a Hobbytown of Boston E7 that I got in rough shape and missing parts.  I fixed it up and painted it and it runs great now!

  IMG_2922.jpeg (Size: 229.7 KB / Downloads: 395) ]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10006 Mon, 20 Jan 2025 04:09:36 +0000 cnrglen]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10006

  DSCF1444.JPG (Size: 327.38 KB / Downloads: 563)

The modeller wants all three painted in Pacific Great Eastern schemes. In case you didn't know PGE is the forerunner of BC Rail.
I found a photo of a PGE gas electric online:
https://images.app.goo.gl/cCU8qDN7kTMzjKjAA

I did discuss paint matching with the owner and we both came to the conclusion that an exact paint match would be near impossible so we're going with 'close enough'.
I figured that the photo was taken in the late fifties/early sixties so I'm thinking that the colors are a bit washed out. I decided to go with a slightly darker tuscan on the sides and a similar yellow.

  DSCF1454.JPG (Size: 321.71 KB / Downloads: 537)

I did my usual painting proceedure, strip the original paint, primer in a neutral gray. I used Vallejo gold yellow on the nose, masked that and then I used Badger's light tusan on the rest of the model. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. 
I should be able to decal it soon, then turn my attention to the other two engines that will also be in the early PGE scheme, but much brighter.]]>

  DSCF1444.JPG (Size: 327.38 KB / Downloads: 563)

The modeller wants all three painted in Pacific Great Eastern schemes. In case you didn't know PGE is the forerunner of BC Rail.
I found a photo of a PGE gas electric online:
https://images.app.goo.gl/cCU8qDN7kTMzjKjAA

I did discuss paint matching with the owner and we both came to the conclusion that an exact paint match would be near impossible so we're going with 'close enough'.
I figured that the photo was taken in the late fifties/early sixties so I'm thinking that the colors are a bit washed out. I decided to go with a slightly darker tuscan on the sides and a similar yellow.

  DSCF1454.JPG (Size: 321.71 KB / Downloads: 537)

I did my usual painting proceedure, strip the original paint, primer in a neutral gray. I used Vallejo gold yellow on the nose, masked that and then I used Badger's light tusan on the rest of the model. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. 
I should be able to decal it soon, then turn my attention to the other two engines that will also be in the early PGE scheme, but much brighter.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10003 Sun, 05 Jan 2025 13:45:50 +0000 Amalynn]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10003

All of these boxcars were built from Roundhouse kits, except the 50’ UP composite car in the middle which was an Accurail kit.


This was a purchased car but the previous owner glued the floor on and used Accurails little plastic truck pins, so I tapped the holes and replaced the pins with screws so the trucks could be more easily removed.


These are both from my own kit stash. They were used to teach me how to put cars through the club’s standards battery for consistent operation.


These are all coal loads I did. To make them I took the plastic coal loads from the car, sanded the sides a bit to make them easier to remove, and taped around the edges with masking tape. I added white glue to the load, spread it out with a brush, and then coated it in coal. I used the dried contents of expended Brita water filters for the coal. Once the glue was dry I removed the masking tape, knocked any loose coal off the top and sides, and glued a metal washer to the bottom so they can remove by magnet. This was taught to me by another club member.


This is an Accurail kit. On this kit I got a little ahead of myself and accidentally glued the little rib across the bottom of the hopper bays before adding the frame. I ended up having to cut the frame apart and cement it in in three pieces but it came out looking pretty good I would say.


And these are two more Roundhouse kits. These roundhouse boxcars were especially educational as I started batch-building them seeing as they are reasonably simple but missed that the door rail on several went in upside down and didn’t slow down and check that it was correct on each one before cementing. Important lesson! I went through with a hobby knife and shaved the proud rib down, cemented the doors closed, and then matched paint by eye to cover the cut plastic.

I will likely post any more of the work I do for them here, too, unless it’s something more interesting. Hoping to be a little more active in modelling through this winter as I am finding it much more difficult to model at home in the summer because I am outdoors a lot more often.]]>

All of these boxcars were built from Roundhouse kits, except the 50’ UP composite car in the middle which was an Accurail kit.


This was a purchased car but the previous owner glued the floor on and used Accurails little plastic truck pins, so I tapped the holes and replaced the pins with screws so the trucks could be more easily removed.


These are both from my own kit stash. They were used to teach me how to put cars through the club’s standards battery for consistent operation.


These are all coal loads I did. To make them I took the plastic coal loads from the car, sanded the sides a bit to make them easier to remove, and taped around the edges with masking tape. I added white glue to the load, spread it out with a brush, and then coated it in coal. I used the dried contents of expended Brita water filters for the coal. Once the glue was dry I removed the masking tape, knocked any loose coal off the top and sides, and glued a metal washer to the bottom so they can remove by magnet. This was taught to me by another club member.


This is an Accurail kit. On this kit I got a little ahead of myself and accidentally glued the little rib across the bottom of the hopper bays before adding the frame. I ended up having to cut the frame apart and cement it in in three pieces but it came out looking pretty good I would say.


And these are two more Roundhouse kits. These roundhouse boxcars were especially educational as I started batch-building them seeing as they are reasonably simple but missed that the door rail on several went in upside down and didn’t slow down and check that it was correct on each one before cementing. Important lesson! I went through with a hobby knife and shaved the proud rib down, cemented the doors closed, and then matched paint by eye to cover the cut plastic.

I will likely post any more of the work I do for them here, too, unless it’s something more interesting. Hoping to be a little more active in modelling through this winter as I am finding it much more difficult to model at home in the summer because I am outdoors a lot more often.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9999 Sun, 15 Dec 2024 05:55:42 +0000 jim currie]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9999 Jim

  100_0186 exp.jpg (Size: 73.69 KB / Downloads: 437) ]]> Jim

  100_0186 exp.jpg (Size: 73.69 KB / Downloads: 437) ]]>