<![CDATA[ - Tips and Tricks]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/ Fri, 17 Apr 2026 04:24:31 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[HO Scale track spacing]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10016 Sun, 02 Mar 2025 02:48:20 +0000 LiveSteamer]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10016 <![CDATA[Testors Easy Lift Off]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9857 Tue, 26 Mar 2024 16:53:56 +0000 LiveSteamer]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9857
Thank You]]>
Thank You]]> <![CDATA[Removing Glue?]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9805 Wed, 06 Dec 2023 20:08:36 +0000 LiveSteamer]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9805 <![CDATA[Advise for Hand Painting?]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9781 Sat, 30 Sep 2023 20:52:59 +0000 Amalynn]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9781 <![CDATA[Toothpaste tubes]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9569 Tue, 03 May 2022 19:58:24 +0000 ezdays]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9569
I'm wondering if any of you have used this material for anything? I cut one up again thinking it could be used maybe as tin siding or roofing material or shape it for scenery. Not sure how it would glue up or hold paint, but I'll find out.


.jpg   Tube in.jpg (Size: 153.59 KB / Downloads: 717)

.jpg   Tube out.jpg (Size: 163.66 KB / Downloads: 912) ]]>
I'm wondering if any of you have used this material for anything? I cut one up again thinking it could be used maybe as tin siding or roofing material or shape it for scenery. Not sure how it would glue up or hold paint, but I'll find out.


.jpg   Tube in.jpg (Size: 153.59 KB / Downloads: 717)

.jpg   Tube out.jpg (Size: 163.66 KB / Downloads: 912) ]]> <![CDATA[3-Point Suspension of Trucks]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9412 Tue, 12 Oct 2021 16:53:59 +0000 railandsail]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9412 http://www.proto87.com/HO_Proto87_car_st..._help.html

[b]"FAST AND EASY" CAR STABILIZERS SUSPENSION UNITS
[/b]
has anyone had occasion to make use of them??]]> http://www.proto87.com/HO_Proto87_car_st..._help.html

[b]"FAST AND EASY" CAR STABILIZERS SUSPENSION UNITS
[/b]
has anyone had occasion to make use of them??]]> <![CDATA[Alternatives to rubbing alcohol for cleaning track]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9102 Thu, 02 Apr 2020 03:23:11 +0000 RobertInOntario]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9102
I used to use rubbing alcohol to clean my track which worked really well.  Well, for obvious reasons, rubbing alcohol is almost impossible to find. Can anyone recommend any alternatives? 

Out of desperation, I started using some Humbrol enamel thinner -- I dab a bit of this onto an old T shirt/ rag and it seems to be cleaning up the grime nicely!   I might continue using this but could it cause any problems anywhere?

Thanks in advance,
Rob]]>
I used to use rubbing alcohol to clean my track which worked really well.  Well, for obvious reasons, rubbing alcohol is almost impossible to find. Can anyone recommend any alternatives? 

Out of desperation, I started using some Humbrol enamel thinner -- I dab a bit of this onto an old T shirt/ rag and it seems to be cleaning up the grime nicely!   I might continue using this but could it cause any problems anywhere?

Thanks in advance,
Rob]]> <![CDATA[repainting]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9022 Tue, 22 Oct 2019 17:58:30 +0000 leon]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9022 <![CDATA[Stone Arch Viaduct / Bridge]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8995 Sat, 31 Aug 2019 04:26:11 +0000 railandsail]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8995
The bottom deck of my layout is to represent principally the city Baltimore, home of America's start with the railroad industry. There is a neat stone arch bridge there in the suburbs, the Thomas viaduct that is even more famous as I read more about it. I wanted to include such a viaduct on my layout as a landmark representative of Baltimore.

I recently became aware that I had several photos I had posted of this viaduct that were not actually the Thomas viaduct, even thought they look very similar. One was a double track affair, the Thomas one, and one was a single track affair located in another state. I'll get into that later.

Turns out I have need of both a single track portion and a double track portion. How to construct them is another big question mark for me. I am making a mock-up using foamcore board right now, and it is presenting even more challenges than I originally anticipated.


from  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Viaduct
Quote:The Thomas Viaduct spans the Patapsco River and Patapsco Valley between Relay, Maryland and Elkridge, Maryland, USA. It was commissioned by the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad (B&O); built between July 4, 1833, and July 4, 1835; and named for Philip E. Thomas, the company's first president.[3]
At its completion, the Thomas Viaduct was the largest railroad bridge in the United States[4] and the country's first multi-span masonry railroad bridge to be built on a curve. It remains the world's oldest multiple arched stone railroad bridge.[5] In 1964, it was designated as a National Historic Landmark.
 
Interestingly, it was commissioned and built so early on by B&O's first president,...and its still in use TODAY !!
[Image: 800px-Thomas-viaduct-1.jpg]]]>
The bottom deck of my layout is to represent principally the city Baltimore, home of America's start with the railroad industry. There is a neat stone arch bridge there in the suburbs, the Thomas viaduct that is even more famous as I read more about it. I wanted to include such a viaduct on my layout as a landmark representative of Baltimore.

I recently became aware that I had several photos I had posted of this viaduct that were not actually the Thomas viaduct, even thought they look very similar. One was a double track affair, the Thomas one, and one was a single track affair located in another state. I'll get into that later.

Turns out I have need of both a single track portion and a double track portion. How to construct them is another big question mark for me. I am making a mock-up using foamcore board right now, and it is presenting even more challenges than I originally anticipated.


from  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Viaduct
Quote:The Thomas Viaduct spans the Patapsco River and Patapsco Valley between Relay, Maryland and Elkridge, Maryland, USA. It was commissioned by the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad (B&O); built between July 4, 1833, and July 4, 1835; and named for Philip E. Thomas, the company's first president.[3]
At its completion, the Thomas Viaduct was the largest railroad bridge in the United States[4] and the country's first multi-span masonry railroad bridge to be built on a curve. It remains the world's oldest multiple arched stone railroad bridge.[5] In 1964, it was designated as a National Historic Landmark.
 
Interestingly, it was commissioned and built so early on by B&O's first president,...and its still in use TODAY !!
[Image: 800px-Thomas-viaduct-1.jpg]]]> <![CDATA[self adhering shingles]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8921 Tue, 02 Apr 2019 23:48:31 +0000 jim currie]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8921 <![CDATA[Painting Brass]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8900 Thu, 07 Mar 2019 16:37:20 +0000 Seamus O'Leary]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8900
Thanks.]]>
Thanks.]]> <![CDATA[Blackener for side rods, valve gear, and drivers]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8865 Wed, 30 Jan 2019 01:48:01 +0000 twilight]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8865
Thx,
Mark]]>
Thx,
Mark]]> <![CDATA[Holding things in place....]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8650 Wed, 14 Mar 2018 06:07:34 +0000 doctorwayne]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8650
[Image: freight%20cars....%20004.jpg]

[Image: freight%20cars....%20003.jpg]

...were curling up at both ends...

[Image: 100_7152.jpg]

Because I have a lot of structures and scenery stuff to add behind the station, I didn't really want to glue it in place. Instead, I decided to use screws, and had some small brass ones on hand. The head just fit into some brass tubing, also on-hand, so I cut a couple of scale 3' lengths off the tubing, then soldered the screw heads into the tubing...

[Image: 100_7153.jpg]

After using a pin vise to drill clearance holes in the platform, I used a smaller bit to create starter holes for the screws into the Masonite beneath the platform...

[Image: 100_7154.jpg]

The resulting trash pails still need to be painted, but do a good job of holding down the platforms while not looking out-of-place....

[Image: 100_7155.jpg]

Wayne]]>
[Image: freight%20cars....%20004.jpg]

[Image: freight%20cars....%20003.jpg]

...were curling up at both ends...

[Image: 100_7152.jpg]

Because I have a lot of structures and scenery stuff to add behind the station, I didn't really want to glue it in place. Instead, I decided to use screws, and had some small brass ones on hand. The head just fit into some brass tubing, also on-hand, so I cut a couple of scale 3' lengths off the tubing, then soldered the screw heads into the tubing...

[Image: 100_7153.jpg]

After using a pin vise to drill clearance holes in the platform, I used a smaller bit to create starter holes for the screws into the Masonite beneath the platform...

[Image: 100_7154.jpg]

The resulting trash pails still need to be painted, but do a good job of holding down the platforms while not looking out-of-place....

[Image: 100_7155.jpg]

Wayne]]> <![CDATA[Painting Stripes on Locomotives and Rolling Stock...]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8649 Wed, 14 Mar 2018 05:00:52 +0000 doctorwayne]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8649
[Image: U-boatphotos006.jpg]

[Image: U-boatphotos005.jpg]

[Image: U-boatphotos003.jpg]

...or these...

[Image: 2007-01-10487.jpg]

...to locomotives or rolling stock, it's probably easier to paint them on than it is to use decals.

To do this, I select masking tape (just regular type, or, if you prefer it, the blue stuff - don't bother with the green, as its adhesive qualities are suspect, in my experience) of a width equal to or greater than the height of the needed stripes.  I lay it out on the edge of a piece of glass (any clean, hard surface will work), then use a sharp blade and straightedge to trim an eighth of an inch-or so off both edges of the tape - these edges get nicked as the tape lays about in your workshop or worse, in a drawer.  The edges also collect dust and fuzz, and, over time, the adhesive near the edges tends to dry out.  Make sure when you're doing the trimming to keep the cuts parallel to the edge of the glass.  

For a model like the CN diesel, measure the model to determine how high the stripes need to be - rather than a ruler, I prefer to use dividers, setting them to the proper height on the model, then transferring that directly to the tape.  Trim the excess off the tape.
Next, determine the angle needed...in some cases, there may be prototypical info available, otherwise use photos or existing models to see what looks best to your eyes.  For the CN diesel, I used an ordinary machinist's square, which offers both 90° and 45° angles, and, luckily, the stripes on the real ones are at 45°.  
You'll also need to know how wide the stripes should be...you should be able to find a prototype photo of the model you're painting, and if the model is reasonably accurate, your scale rule will help you to figure
out how wide the stripes should be, and ditto for the space between stripes.
Set the square against the edge of the work surface using to 45°angle (this is why the trimming cuts needed to be parallel to the edge of the glass /work surface) and use a divider, set to the width of the base of the stripe, to "walk" the square along the tape, making the cuts as you go - the first cut merely trims off the excess, the second creates the first stripe, the third cut the first spacer, the fourth the second stripe, and so-on.  Make sure to create enough stripes to do both sides of the loco.

The object to receive the stripes should already be painted in the lighter of the two colours being used, and that paint should be thoroughly cured to ensure that the tape doesn't lift it when removed.
When applying the masking, determine the proper starting point, and, if necessary, trim the tape, then, after the first piece is in place, add the next piece from the work surface, abutting it directly against the edge of the first piece - it's just serving as a temporary spacer during tape application.  Continue applying the masking and spacer tape pieces to both sides of the unit, then carefully remove and discard the spacer tapes.  If there are any other areas on the model which need to be masked before paint the stripes, do so accordingly (for example, a freelanced model might have the walkway edges in a different colour, and will need to be covered).

After the paint has been applied, and is dry to the touch, remove the masking.  If there's been any bleed-under, leave it until the paint is well-hardened before doing any touch-up (unless your painting experience shows that a particular brand is better touched-up while the paint is not fully-cured).  Different brands and paint types do vary in this respect.

For doing chevron-type stripes, such as those on the U-boat, the use of masking and spacer tape is the same, but the angle and width of the stripes, and whether the chevron is pointing up or down, is up to the painter and what he or she thinks will look best.

For doing this type of stripes, I again used tape as wide as the height of the model, but after trimming the edges, used a square and sharp blade to make a vertical cut in the middle of the length of tape (the tape must be longer than the width of the model - you can trim it after application if you wish - I left mine as-is - but any raised details will use more tape to cover them, and pre-trimming will leave tape, in such instances, too short.

I used a variable bevel square, as shown below, to lay out the angle, in this case for the front of a wedge-type plow.  To space the relatively narrow stripes, I made the first cut, then, without moving the square, added a piece of Evergreen strip styrene .125" wide, abutting the arm of the square, and made a second cut, using the styrene as a guide.  The square was then moved to align with that cut, the plastic strip added as before, and another cut made using it again as a guide.  After I had more than enough strips cut for one side of the plow, the square, angle unaltered, was flipped over and the process repeated for the other side.
Here's the masking tape on the glass, mostly used-up, along with the bevel square, X-Acto knife, and strip of styrene...

[Image: 100_7125.jpg]

On the plow, the portion to be striped already painted white, I chose a point on the outer edge of the area to be painted, then chose a long enough piece of tape to reach that point from the bottom centre of the plow.  After that piece was in place, I used dividers to measure the position of the top of that strip in relation the the plow's roof, then transferred that measurement to the other side of the plow, and applied a matching strip of tape.  Working down from the first pair of tape pieces selected, the masking and spacer strips were added to both sides of the plow, and likewise for those above pieces - the spacers' purpose is only to maintain proper spacing of the actual masking and to keep the angle of application constant.

I had already decided that the main full stripe of the chevron, at the bottom centre of the plow, would be white, so marked those tape strips with a "W", and every other one, above and below, with a dot to indicate that that tape was masking, and was to be left on for the actual painting...

[Image: 100_7127.jpg]

The spacer strips were then removed, and the sides and roof of the plow masked to prevent overspray...

[Image: 100_7135.jpg]

...and black paint airbrushed on...

[Image: 100_7136.jpg]

As soon as the paint was dry to the touch, the tape was removed...

[Image: 100_7138.jpg]

[Image: 100_7140.jpg]

As you can see, there is some touch-up required, as described earlier.

Here's the plow, ready for service...

[Image: S0075568.jpg]

[Image: S0045565.jpg]

...although the owner was adamant that it be dirty, so it was off to the paint shop again, for some weathering...

[Image: S0055576.jpg]

[Image: S0085579.jpg]

I used a combination of airbrushed and brush-painted colours to add dust, dirt, and rust, along with artist's pastels , applied with a brush, then lightly Dullcoted.  While not to my personal tastes, the owner was completely satisfied.

Wayne]]>
[Image: U-boatphotos006.jpg]

[Image: U-boatphotos005.jpg]

[Image: U-boatphotos003.jpg]

...or these...

[Image: 2007-01-10487.jpg]

...to locomotives or rolling stock, it's probably easier to paint them on than it is to use decals.

To do this, I select masking tape (just regular type, or, if you prefer it, the blue stuff - don't bother with the green, as its adhesive qualities are suspect, in my experience) of a width equal to or greater than the height of the needed stripes.  I lay it out on the edge of a piece of glass (any clean, hard surface will work), then use a sharp blade and straightedge to trim an eighth of an inch-or so off both edges of the tape - these edges get nicked as the tape lays about in your workshop or worse, in a drawer.  The edges also collect dust and fuzz, and, over time, the adhesive near the edges tends to dry out.  Make sure when you're doing the trimming to keep the cuts parallel to the edge of the glass.  

For a model like the CN diesel, measure the model to determine how high the stripes need to be - rather than a ruler, I prefer to use dividers, setting them to the proper height on the model, then transferring that directly to the tape.  Trim the excess off the tape.
Next, determine the angle needed...in some cases, there may be prototypical info available, otherwise use photos or existing models to see what looks best to your eyes.  For the CN diesel, I used an ordinary machinist's square, which offers both 90° and 45° angles, and, luckily, the stripes on the real ones are at 45°.  
You'll also need to know how wide the stripes should be...you should be able to find a prototype photo of the model you're painting, and if the model is reasonably accurate, your scale rule will help you to figure
out how wide the stripes should be, and ditto for the space between stripes.
Set the square against the edge of the work surface using to 45°angle (this is why the trimming cuts needed to be parallel to the edge of the glass /work surface) and use a divider, set to the width of the base of the stripe, to "walk" the square along the tape, making the cuts as you go - the first cut merely trims off the excess, the second creates the first stripe, the third cut the first spacer, the fourth the second stripe, and so-on.  Make sure to create enough stripes to do both sides of the loco.

The object to receive the stripes should already be painted in the lighter of the two colours being used, and that paint should be thoroughly cured to ensure that the tape doesn't lift it when removed.
When applying the masking, determine the proper starting point, and, if necessary, trim the tape, then, after the first piece is in place, add the next piece from the work surface, abutting it directly against the edge of the first piece - it's just serving as a temporary spacer during tape application.  Continue applying the masking and spacer tape pieces to both sides of the unit, then carefully remove and discard the spacer tapes.  If there are any other areas on the model which need to be masked before paint the stripes, do so accordingly (for example, a freelanced model might have the walkway edges in a different colour, and will need to be covered).

After the paint has been applied, and is dry to the touch, remove the masking.  If there's been any bleed-under, leave it until the paint is well-hardened before doing any touch-up (unless your painting experience shows that a particular brand is better touched-up while the paint is not fully-cured).  Different brands and paint types do vary in this respect.

For doing chevron-type stripes, such as those on the U-boat, the use of masking and spacer tape is the same, but the angle and width of the stripes, and whether the chevron is pointing up or down, is up to the painter and what he or she thinks will look best.

For doing this type of stripes, I again used tape as wide as the height of the model, but after trimming the edges, used a square and sharp blade to make a vertical cut in the middle of the length of tape (the tape must be longer than the width of the model - you can trim it after application if you wish - I left mine as-is - but any raised details will use more tape to cover them, and pre-trimming will leave tape, in such instances, too short.

I used a variable bevel square, as shown below, to lay out the angle, in this case for the front of a wedge-type plow.  To space the relatively narrow stripes, I made the first cut, then, without moving the square, added a piece of Evergreen strip styrene .125" wide, abutting the arm of the square, and made a second cut, using the styrene as a guide.  The square was then moved to align with that cut, the plastic strip added as before, and another cut made using it again as a guide.  After I had more than enough strips cut for one side of the plow, the square, angle unaltered, was flipped over and the process repeated for the other side.
Here's the masking tape on the glass, mostly used-up, along with the bevel square, X-Acto knife, and strip of styrene...

[Image: 100_7125.jpg]

On the plow, the portion to be striped already painted white, I chose a point on the outer edge of the area to be painted, then chose a long enough piece of tape to reach that point from the bottom centre of the plow.  After that piece was in place, I used dividers to measure the position of the top of that strip in relation the the plow's roof, then transferred that measurement to the other side of the plow, and applied a matching strip of tape.  Working down from the first pair of tape pieces selected, the masking and spacer strips were added to both sides of the plow, and likewise for those above pieces - the spacers' purpose is only to maintain proper spacing of the actual masking and to keep the angle of application constant.

I had already decided that the main full stripe of the chevron, at the bottom centre of the plow, would be white, so marked those tape strips with a "W", and every other one, above and below, with a dot to indicate that that tape was masking, and was to be left on for the actual painting...

[Image: 100_7127.jpg]

The spacer strips were then removed, and the sides and roof of the plow masked to prevent overspray...

[Image: 100_7135.jpg]

...and black paint airbrushed on...

[Image: 100_7136.jpg]

As soon as the paint was dry to the touch, the tape was removed...

[Image: 100_7138.jpg]

[Image: 100_7140.jpg]

As you can see, there is some touch-up required, as described earlier.

Here's the plow, ready for service...

[Image: S0075568.jpg]

[Image: S0045565.jpg]

...although the owner was adamant that it be dirty, so it was off to the paint shop again, for some weathering...

[Image: S0055576.jpg]

[Image: S0085579.jpg]

I used a combination of airbrushed and brush-painted colours to add dust, dirt, and rust, along with artist's pastels , applied with a brush, then lightly Dullcoted.  While not to my personal tastes, the owner was completely satisfied.

Wayne]]> <![CDATA[Looking for tips on using Scalecoat 2 paint]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8535 Mon, 09 Oct 2017 15:53:15 +0000 twilight]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8535 ) The issue I am having is the paint is going on grainy (in some places). So, I'm looking for some advice on what might be causing the paint to do that and some tips to correct it. Let me set up how I was applying the paint. I mixed the paint 60/40, 60 Scalecoat thinner/40 paint, in that range, more to the 60% side. Reefer was primed with Tamiya Fine Scale primer. Air brush set about 20-25 psi. My paint booth is now in the garage, my first attempt to paint the reefer was during the week and it was not as humid as it was over the weekend here in NJ. When I painted it during the week, I did multiple coats over a 4 day period. Toward the end of laying on the coats I noticed the graininess. I stripped the paint on Saturday, washed in mild soap and air dried, primed again, tested application on a styrene sheet and found it to be smooth, then applied a few coats to the reefer every 3 to 4 hours. Found more graininess, but not as bad as it was the first time. The bottom of the reefer was the way I would expect to see Scalecoat to look, the sides not so much. Top of the reefer seems OK, too, this time. This is the first time I am using Scalecoat 2 paint, I've used Scalecoat 1 on other projects and not had this problem.

Some thoughts or observations I think happened are: 1. the paint was drying as it was being applied, because I was holding the airbrush to far away from the reefer in some spots? And if this is the case, how far away should the air brush be from project being painted. 2. Bad mix with thinner to paint ratio? 3. Humidity? 4. PSI is off. 5. Should I try and paint the reefer in one setting instead of multiple coats?

And I was wondering if, after decals are applied, would a coat of flat sealer remove the graininess and even everything out?

Here are some pictures of what is going on:

[Image: IMG_0501_zps1xgt0vi5.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0499_zps2avh4can.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0504_zpsiexvjj0s.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0500_zpsfnoyojau.jpg]

Thx,

Mark (Ugh)]]> ) The issue I am having is the paint is going on grainy (in some places). So, I'm looking for some advice on what might be causing the paint to do that and some tips to correct it. Let me set up how I was applying the paint. I mixed the paint 60/40, 60 Scalecoat thinner/40 paint, in that range, more to the 60% side. Reefer was primed with Tamiya Fine Scale primer. Air brush set about 20-25 psi. My paint booth is now in the garage, my first attempt to paint the reefer was during the week and it was not as humid as it was over the weekend here in NJ. When I painted it during the week, I did multiple coats over a 4 day period. Toward the end of laying on the coats I noticed the graininess. I stripped the paint on Saturday, washed in mild soap and air dried, primed again, tested application on a styrene sheet and found it to be smooth, then applied a few coats to the reefer every 3 to 4 hours. Found more graininess, but not as bad as it was the first time. The bottom of the reefer was the way I would expect to see Scalecoat to look, the sides not so much. Top of the reefer seems OK, too, this time. This is the first time I am using Scalecoat 2 paint, I've used Scalecoat 1 on other projects and not had this problem.

Some thoughts or observations I think happened are: 1. the paint was drying as it was being applied, because I was holding the airbrush to far away from the reefer in some spots? And if this is the case, how far away should the air brush be from project being painted. 2. Bad mix with thinner to paint ratio? 3. Humidity? 4. PSI is off. 5. Should I try and paint the reefer in one setting instead of multiple coats?

And I was wondering if, after decals are applied, would a coat of flat sealer remove the graininess and even everything out?

Here are some pictures of what is going on:

[Image: IMG_0501_zps1xgt0vi5.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0499_zps2avh4can.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0504_zpsiexvjj0s.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0500_zpsfnoyojau.jpg]

Thx,

Mark (Ugh)]]>