03-31-2009, 05:26 PM
From what I gather, you have both problems.....derailing and stalling....Let's take 'em one at a time...
Derailing is probably caused by kinks in your track, and may also have dips and rises. From what you say, you're using the ballast/glue mixture to hold your track in place. White glue will not stick to your plastic ties, it just kinda' molds around them so track may have a bit of movement. Also fluctuations in temperature and humidity levels in the train room may have "softened" the glue somewhat allowing the track to move. Probably the best remedy, short of tearing it up and laying it back down with a proper glue, would be to nail it down, making sure beforehand that the track has no kinks and/or dips. What may seem insignificant to your eyes, might be a major problem for tiny N-gauge wheels...Also, drive the nails very carefully 'till they just touch the ties, or you might put a kink/dip where you drove the nail.
As for your pick-up problem, it might be related to the kind of track you use....brass or nickel silver, although kinks and dips will also affect pick up. If brass, it is a pain in the hinder, oxidizing and not allowing proper current flow. Nickel silver is more forgiving in this respect, although both will suffer if you operate in a particularly dusty environment. If you smoke...cigarette soot (and tar) will also wind up on the railheads.
Tackle the alignment problem first, it will help in reducing the pick-up problem, and make your job a lot easier to correct.
I went through the same problems you describe with my last layout...I learned that nearly "perfect" track work is the basis of any layout....If it doesn't run properly, the rest doesn't matter....
Good luck, and let us know how you make out...
Derailing is probably caused by kinks in your track, and may also have dips and rises. From what you say, you're using the ballast/glue mixture to hold your track in place. White glue will not stick to your plastic ties, it just kinda' molds around them so track may have a bit of movement. Also fluctuations in temperature and humidity levels in the train room may have "softened" the glue somewhat allowing the track to move. Probably the best remedy, short of tearing it up and laying it back down with a proper glue, would be to nail it down, making sure beforehand that the track has no kinks and/or dips. What may seem insignificant to your eyes, might be a major problem for tiny N-gauge wheels...Also, drive the nails very carefully 'till they just touch the ties, or you might put a kink/dip where you drove the nail.
As for your pick-up problem, it might be related to the kind of track you use....brass or nickel silver, although kinks and dips will also affect pick up. If brass, it is a pain in the hinder, oxidizing and not allowing proper current flow. Nickel silver is more forgiving in this respect, although both will suffer if you operate in a particularly dusty environment. If you smoke...cigarette soot (and tar) will also wind up on the railheads.
Tackle the alignment problem first, it will help in reducing the pick-up problem, and make your job a lot easier to correct.
I went through the same problems you describe with my last layout...I learned that nearly "perfect" track work is the basis of any layout....If it doesn't run properly, the rest doesn't matter....
Good luck, and let us know how you make out...
Gus (LC&P).