07-06-2009, 10:22 PM
lol, lots of snags! the raw materials are becoming hard to come by. I originally planned to use HO scale code 100 rail for the catenary poles and cross beams, but i have determined that there isn't adequate area to really make solid connections between the wires and poles without having to put wires across the face of one side of the rail, and leave ugly hooks on the other. WHile that is probably ridiculously stable and strong, i think I'm going to go for a more realistic approach with H-columns, Tees, angles, and such. the H-Columns especially, since i can hide the "hooks" for the wire in the webbing of the catenary poles for the wires, and if i off set them to the side facing the direction of the trains, the grab irons would be installed over them.
lol, more power indeed!
I think as far as curves go, you just need to have everything somewhat precisely cut. Tight curves aren't to difficult, you just need to slant the hanger wire at what looks like an appropriate tilt, and then add the additional wires to it to complete the look. If you use a strong wire, like the steel music wire, it will hold it's shape. I think the worst thing about the steel wire though, is that it is very difficult to bend, and you really only get one shot at bending it right. while bending it to have the proper tilt doesn't seem to hard, i plan to hook the wired into both the catenary bridge, and a small hook to hang the wires from (since i don't completely trust a straight-solder connection).
As long as everything is securely anchored, its fine. I think i might build some gauges on some old model power cars or something to keep the wire centered over a curve in between catenary supports. once the wire is soldered in, it should retain it's shape.
I don't think I'm going to get super complicated with the contact wire and the auxiliary wire. I know that on the prototype they stretched out a bit farther, but my goal is to make a model that is more intermediate, that looks good, and has room to be super detailed later, but is also sturdy. the wire i have now is fine for straight tracks, and if i wanted to use different wire, i don't see why i couldn't disconnect the wire at a future date. If you look at the first photo i printed with the experimental catenary poles, you'll see that the hangers (the triangular area of wires holding the catenary wires) are only soldered on one end. the steel wire is strong enough to hold it up just by one connection, so i think that i might not even have to solder the wire in. I could just super glue it, and then bust the glue off if i need to remove the wire (rather than having to break out the soldering iron). that's just my theory though, we'll see how it works in practice.
Lester Perry Wrote:All I can say is more powerto ya. After they are built then the wire has to be strung up, straight is one thing but a curve. I just don't have what it takes.
lol, more power indeed!
I think as far as curves go, you just need to have everything somewhat precisely cut. Tight curves aren't to difficult, you just need to slant the hanger wire at what looks like an appropriate tilt, and then add the additional wires to it to complete the look. If you use a strong wire, like the steel music wire, it will hold it's shape. I think the worst thing about the steel wire though, is that it is very difficult to bend, and you really only get one shot at bending it right. while bending it to have the proper tilt doesn't seem to hard, i plan to hook the wired into both the catenary bridge, and a small hook to hang the wires from (since i don't completely trust a straight-solder connection).
As long as everything is securely anchored, its fine. I think i might build some gauges on some old model power cars or something to keep the wire centered over a curve in between catenary supports. once the wire is soldered in, it should retain it's shape.
I don't think I'm going to get super complicated with the contact wire and the auxiliary wire. I know that on the prototype they stretched out a bit farther, but my goal is to make a model that is more intermediate, that looks good, and has room to be super detailed later, but is also sturdy. the wire i have now is fine for straight tracks, and if i wanted to use different wire, i don't see why i couldn't disconnect the wire at a future date. If you look at the first photo i printed with the experimental catenary poles, you'll see that the hangers (the triangular area of wires holding the catenary wires) are only soldered on one end. the steel wire is strong enough to hold it up just by one connection, so i think that i might not even have to solder the wire in. I could just super glue it, and then bust the glue off if i need to remove the wire (rather than having to break out the soldering iron). that's just my theory though, we'll see how it works in practice.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.
![[Image: logosmall.png]](http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg445/CAB_IV/Model%20Trains%202013/logosmall.png)