09-29-2009, 02:42 AM
Kevin, part of the problem with using dimensional lumber like 2"x4"s is that it's not very stable - the average 2"x4" has more moisture in it than a cup of coffee, and, despite its dimensions, is liable to warp or twist as it dries. Common 1"x4"s are cut from the same material, and have the same drawbacks. A better choice is kiln-dried pine (or fir if you can find it) in either "Select" or #1 grade. This is dried far beyond that which a "kiln-dried" 2"x4" would be, and 1"x4"s would be more than adequate for most layouts. 1"x2" are knot free, and 1"x4"s have minimal knots that are tight and not too large. I used 1"x4" pine for my open grid benchwork, with the support system (legs, underlayout shelving, and bracing) of regular 2"x4"s only because I had lots left over from building my house. The 1"x4" grid sits atop it, fastened in place with a minimal amount of 1"x2" risers. For the second level of the layout, I'll be using 1"x2" pine, with a top surface of 3/8" sheathing plywood. I assemble the benchwork with drywall screws and/or regular wood screws, countersinking the heads.
In place of 1"x4"s, you could also use 3/4" plywood, ripped into 3 1/2" strips, although screwing it into the edges isn't quite as reliable as it is with boards.
Depending on your method of adding roadbed, I find it best to put crossmembers 16"o/c. This will provide more than adequate support for a 3/8" plywood table-top, 3/4" plywood cut-out roadbed (strips and pre-cut curves), spline roadbed, or extruded foam. Whichever you choose, be sure to secure it to the framework with screws and/or glue, and you should have benchwork that is strong and stable, without being overly heavy. Make the support system/legs as a separate assembly for easier moving.
Another weight-saving idea can be found on page 8 of Stein's Minneapolis Warehouse District 1957 thread. You should be able to cut the slots even more easily using a dado blade with a table saw, or by making a couple of passes with a regular blade in a SkilSaw.
Wayne
In place of 1"x4"s, you could also use 3/4" plywood, ripped into 3 1/2" strips, although screwing it into the edges isn't quite as reliable as it is with boards.
Depending on your method of adding roadbed, I find it best to put crossmembers 16"o/c. This will provide more than adequate support for a 3/8" plywood table-top, 3/4" plywood cut-out roadbed (strips and pre-cut curves), spline roadbed, or extruded foam. Whichever you choose, be sure to secure it to the framework with screws and/or glue, and you should have benchwork that is strong and stable, without being overly heavy. Make the support system/legs as a separate assembly for easier moving.
Another weight-saving idea can be found on page 8 of Stein's Minneapolis Warehouse District 1957 thread. You should be able to cut the slots even more easily using a dado blade with a table saw, or by making a couple of passes with a regular blade in a SkilSaw.
Wayne