09-30-2009, 12:48 AM
You can also make a rivet (of sorts): I'm doing some cosmetic work on a friend's loco, and, during a test run, it lost a rivet from the crosshead connection to the main rod. I drilled out the parts to accept the next largest size of wire (.019" in this case), then drilled a .012" hole in the end face of a length of .019" brass wire. I then punched out two 3/32" discs from a sheet of .005" brass shim stock, drilling an .012" hole in the centre of each. After cleaning all parts with some 800 grit sand paper, I applied a little paste flux (GERN brand, of course 
), inserted the .012" wire through one disc and into the hole in the .019" rod. A quick touch with a soldering iron secured the three parts together. The .012" wire was then cut flush with the face of the disc and the .019" wire was cut to its approximate finished length.
Using calipers, I determined the length actually needed for the "rivet", trimming it to its final length, then drilling the end face to accept another short length of .012" wire. The partially assemble piece was then inserted through the proper holes from the rear, where it was held in place with a wad of wet tissue wedged between the drivers and the rear of the crosshead. I applied a miniscule amount of oil to the exposed sides of the .019" rod, (to prevent solder from sticking to it) then inserted a fluxed piece of .012" wire into the hole in the end, installed the remaining disc, and gave it a quick touch with the soldering iron. A cut-off disc snicked-off any protruding wire, and the engine was ready for service.
You can also make true rivets in a somewhat similar fashion. Select a suitable wire size (one that's a good fit in the existing holes), or drill out the existing hole to accommodate the next largest wire size available. Drill into the centre of the end face of the wire, using a drill that's about .006" or .007" smaller than the wire. This will leave three or four thousandths of material around the perimeter of the hole. Cut into the end in an "X" pattern to make it easy to flare over the ends after the rivet is in place, or, if the parts are not yet in place on the loco, you can use a punch to effect the flare, foregoing the "X" cut. In either case, the flared end should be the one not readily visible under normal viewing. However, before the rivet is installed, punch-out a suitable "cap" for the opposite end of the rivet, and solder it in place, then install the rivet from the outside face, and flare over the opposite end. Jim's suggestion of using paper to maintain clearances is a good one, too.
Wayne
), inserted the .012" wire through one disc and into the hole in the .019" rod. A quick touch with a soldering iron secured the three parts together. The .012" wire was then cut flush with the face of the disc and the .019" wire was cut to its approximate finished length.Using calipers, I determined the length actually needed for the "rivet", trimming it to its final length, then drilling the end face to accept another short length of .012" wire. The partially assemble piece was then inserted through the proper holes from the rear, where it was held in place with a wad of wet tissue wedged between the drivers and the rear of the crosshead. I applied a miniscule amount of oil to the exposed sides of the .019" rod, (to prevent solder from sticking to it) then inserted a fluxed piece of .012" wire into the hole in the end, installed the remaining disc, and gave it a quick touch with the soldering iron. A cut-off disc snicked-off any protruding wire, and the engine was ready for service.
You can also make true rivets in a somewhat similar fashion. Select a suitable wire size (one that's a good fit in the existing holes), or drill out the existing hole to accommodate the next largest wire size available. Drill into the centre of the end face of the wire, using a drill that's about .006" or .007" smaller than the wire. This will leave three or four thousandths of material around the perimeter of the hole. Cut into the end in an "X" pattern to make it easy to flare over the ends after the rivet is in place, or, if the parts are not yet in place on the loco, you can use a punch to effect the flare, foregoing the "X" cut. In either case, the flared end should be the one not readily visible under normal viewing. However, before the rivet is installed, punch-out a suitable "cap" for the opposite end of the rivet, and solder it in place, then install the rivet from the outside face, and flare over the opposite end. Jim's suggestion of using paper to maintain clearances is a good one, too.
Wayne