Charlie b's layout

[TMo]

I recently got a good buy on some ALCo Centuries, 2 were Reading and one was a BN. The Reading units will work for early Conrail but the BN 636 was of of place. 
I taped off the roof and windows with regular cellophane tape (if you can actually call it that) and used my little portable air brush and some Testors black and sprayed in a downward direction. I will have a tiny bit of brush touch up but this will get a Conrail patch and new numbers. 
That little air brush is just so handy and I can have it on paint and clean in less time than it takes to get my Pashe out of the box. 

Charlie

Love the roof detail on that C636.  What monsters they were!  Are you going to put worm and "Penn Central" decals on and patch them out?

[Charlie B]

I recently got a good buy on some ALCo Centuries, 2 were Reading and one was a BN. The Reading units will work for early Conrail but the BN 636 was of of place. 
I taped off the roof and windows with regular cellophane tape (if you can actually call it that) and used my little portable air brush and some Testors black and sprayed in a downward direction. I will have a tiny bit of brush touch up but this will get a Conrail patch and new numbers. 
That little air brush is just so handy and I can have it on paint and clean in less time than it takes to get my Pashe out of the box. 

Charlie

Love the roof detail on that C636.  What monsters they were!  Are you going to put worm and "Penn Central" decals on and patch them out?

I don't think I will do the worms,  I think th CR patches will suffice. I like the looks of this one, not too dirty yet shows signs of working.      
Charlie

[Charlie B]

I installed flicker free lights in an IHC coach. It took 2 capacitors, a bridge rectifier and 3 resistors for parts.         I stuck the capacitors in one end and the diode in the other.  The lights were from a 15 meter strip I bought several years ago. The capacitor plus terminals go to the plus on the rectifier and the negative to the minus terminal. The lights also go to these terminals. The other 2 terminals on the rectifier go to the track. I used 2 1000 ohm resistors in the light leads to cut down on the brightness. I am just going to throw these pictures up for now. I used a cheap plastic interior I found on ebay about 10 years go. Not right for the car but with some mods it looks ok through the windows.  I had some cheap LPBs  that donated their upper torsos that were glued on the seats

[Charlie B]

      The lights will remain on for 7 to 10 seconds after the power is cut.  The 150 ohm resistor is installed in one of the track leads to stop the current from drawing so fast the DCC breakers trip. 
Charlie

[Tyson Rayles]

You put those capacitors in what would have been the bathrooms!!!! How long are those poor people going to have to hold it before the next station?

[Charlie B]

You put those capacitors in what would have been the bathrooms!!!! How long are those poor people going to have to hold it before the next station?

The MOW crews are delighted.....
Charlie

[Charlie B]

A lights out shot of some of the cars that have been done.     
Charlie

[Charlie B]

I finished installing the center shelf and painting it it will hold 2 tracks and it should give me room to store another 130 cars. That will be a big help. 
   
Charlie

[Charlie B]

One of the sets that has been hidden away for years is this one made by Bachmann for Gaines dog food. I believe it is 1981. These sets have no value for collecting but my great grandkids like this kind of stuff.  Sitting on the new shelf which is also getting rid of a lot of snap track I never had the heart to throw away.                             
Charlie

[tompm]

Cool set. I actually remember that one.

[Charlie B]

I have been installing lighting in my passenger cars.  Also adding the capacitors for flicker free.     
Charlie

[TMo]

Super cool (literally). You'd been hard pressed to accomplish that with incandescents!

[cn nutbar]

Little people make a big difference---well done Charlie.

[Charlie B]

I built a blue box caboose and added lights and markers.  working with the 40+gauge wires is really trying on my eyes.         
Charlie

[TMo]

Nice addition! I share your difficulties with all things small. My digits and eyes aren't a good combo for those efforts. Thank goodness I don't model in N-scale. For those who do? A tip of the cap - your patience has to be leaps and bounds better than mine.