LNE ( ex PRR ) 2-8-2

[iis612]

A work of art!! I hope my bowsers turn out nearly as nice


Matt

[e-paw]

Not much progress, but I did manage to install the brake shoes...    

[Steamtrains]

WoW....Excellent work..!!

Don't know how I've missed this thread 'till today. It's full of hints and tips that'll help me along with my build. Lucky you that can wander down the road to a hobby shop to get parts....I'm going to take a look at the Cal-Scale parts catalog, as I've been mostly checking out Yardbird Trains. Is that where you got the brakes and lubricators..??

Keep up the terrific work..!!

P.D. What are you using to attach all those goodies to the boiler..??

[e-paw]

Thanks Steamtrains, I wish that I could just wander down the road to get these parts. Just yesterday Tomustang and myself took a 300 mile round trip to two hobby shops in search of parts in witch I came back empty handed on what I needed. We are now planning a trek to here <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.bowser-trains.com/hoemrrs/store/store.htm">http://www.bowser-trains.com/hoemrrs/store/store.htm</a><!-- m --> . They seam to be the Bowser co. store. That will still be a good 2 hour ride each way from my house. As for how I am attaching the parts, It's mostly just CA, "supper Glue". In a few places I've used a two part epoxy.

[cn nutbar]

Looking really good Steve ---being a big Mikado fan I'm looking forward to the finished product

[Bob C]

E-paw, looks like a drive, though good road. English's is the place - Mr. English owns the "Factory" so to speak, and a fairly nice shop. For your convenience, I'd suggest a call or e-mail to them with your wants/needs...on my few quests, they've been prompt and helpful - and might save you unnecessary disappointment (that would spoil the lovely drive!) and expense. Timing (as with many producers and vendors) can be important...please, don't question my source of knowledge on that. Love the project...Re-did an old Penn-Line L1 (my 1st HO loco) once, but not nearly as carefully as you are. Admiring the methods and skill, and anticipating eagerly, the paint and markings. All the Best. Bob C.

[e-paw]

Some more progress on the Mike. The sand lines are in along with the steps on the boiler. I also reinstalled the the hand rails.    
   

[P5se Camelback]

Wow! This bad boy is lookin' fantastic! I love the delicate details ... all the neatly run piping and stuff ... very cool!

This is going to be something to write home about, a real beauty!

[e-paw]

Was kind of busy the last week or so but I did manage to start on the front pilot of the mike. I cut off the cast on step over the air tank because it was way too thick and not wide enough, it just didn't look right when I compared it to the prototype photos. I also had to shorten the Long grab iron that runs across the pilot beam, it was way to high. the other modification that I did was to move the air tank closer to the boiler front , Bowser had placed to almost flush with the front edge of the pilot.
I still have to replace the step over the air tank, add the air lines, add marker lights, and some how figure out a way to get a working coupler mounted in that limited space.

[Russ Bellinis]

I use Kadee #4's but be warned that Kadee is discontinuing the #4 couplers. The #4 has a narrow shank with a very small hole in it. Right behind the narrow shank it opens up into a rectangle with a tang on one side. The rectangle is designed to hold a coil spring as a centering spring. I cut off everything behind the narrow shank, and drill a hole the same size as the small one in the narrow shank into the draft gear box. I then mount the coupler into the box with a wire. The coupler will not be self centering, but I have not found that to be a problem. I just use a small screw driver or wood skewer to position the coupler to line up with any car that I'm trying to couple to.

[e-paw]

Thanks Russ. My thinking was around the same line.
As you can see in this bottom view there is not much room from the rear of the pilot beam to the edge of the frame = Not much room to attach a coupler. I may end up running the attaching screw right into the pilot between the pilot steps. The 2-56 screw that holds the pilot to the frame is too low to use, as the proper coupler height is even with the frame height.

[Schraddel]

Hello e-paw!

As suggestion, this was my kind of solution on an similar loco (Bowser kit PRR L1 2-8-2):




The cast on coupler box was removed completely by filing. Then replaced with an Kadee #78 box assembly. Simply glued by CA and it lasts.

Lutz

[nkp_174]

Looking good!

Have you considered placing a small sheet of styrene/brass between the frame and boiler to hide the worm gear? It wouldn't be visible at normal layout height regardless, but doing so would help bring that one area close to the level you've set for the rest of your detailing.

Michael

[e-paw]

Thanks everyone. I may try that Idea Mike. The track height on my layout is about 45 inches so from my viewing angle the worm is not that big of a problem. I'm kind of torn on the idea, I'm worried about trading off one unrealistic detail for another. A big flat plate under the boiler may not look that much better. I may use a trick that worked on my 4-8-0 from the End of year challenge. On that steamer I added equalising springs to the frame, that should be enough to distract your eye away from the gear,,I hope.

[e-paw]

   

OK, here is my solution to the coupler problem. I cut the shank on a #5 off right where it normally has the mounting hole in it, drilled it out, made a corresponding hole in the pilot, and screwed it in. The connection is plenty strong and at the correct height. It also completely clears the frame, so now I'm happy. Now to start on adding on some details to it.