LNE ( ex PRR ) 2-8-2

[e-paw]

I managed to do some more work to the pilot this week. I added the foot plate over the air tank, Completed the air lines that run to/from said tank, installed the cut lever, attached the # board, glued in the brake line, and soldered the steps to the pilot. If you look closely you'll see that the bell is now in place atop the boiler. Here's a few pics to show what it looks like now.

[Puddlejumper]

This a great looking model! Very nice!

[e-paw]

I finally managed to get the parts I needed to finish the boiler on the L-1. I replaced a damaged cross head on the fireman's side with a new one from Bowser.    

I also managed to find the cab back plate from Bowser also. With a little filling and fitting I managed to get it in.     I did find out some disturbing news from Bowser,,,All the steam engine kits and parts are discontinued . Whatever is in stock is all there is, they will not be producing any more. Once the stock runs out, that's it.

[e-paw]

The last thing that I added to the model are the injectors. Or is it "is" the injectors. They are a USRA type and not the PRR type that would be the correct ones for the mike. The correct Bowser parts are no longer available, so I used these because they are pretty close to the right parts.    

   

At this point I'll call the boiler ready for primmer, but that will be a job for tomorrow, as long as the weather holds :? .

[Schraddel]

I did find out some disturbing news from Bowser,,,All the steam engine kits and parts are discontinued . Whatever is in stock is all there is, they will not be producing any more. Once the stock runs out, that's it.

Very sad but very true!
You did a great job on this old loco e-paw.

[doctorwayne]

Boy, talk about arriving late to the party. :oops: I don't know how I could've missed this until now. Great job on the re-build Steve and nice to see this kind of work still being practised.
If I could make one suggestion, it would be to replace that front coupler with one from Kadee's -30 series - not sure of the number, but there's one that's identical to the #5, but made from engineering plastic. This will ensure that, should you ever want to doublehead this loco with one of similar construction, you won't be using the couplers for unintended electrical purposes.

Wayne

[e-paw]

Thanks Doc.. I have experienced unintended electrical episodes like you have warned against. My fix for it is something that I will get to latter, but, it involves making the tender body and boiler the same polarity because they are both conductive, If they rub together you can end up with a short. The next step will be adding all wheel pick up to the tender. Then I make all my tender couplers insulated with a plastic coupler box like I used here. This eliminates any chance of a short between the tender and loco or loco to loco in double heading. That's all for latter, for now the L-1 sits all primmered up on the layout in Easton. All the unprimmed parts will be brush painted.    

And,,, for the first time in quite some time the Mike is reunited with her tender. Once the primmer has set completely she'll get a coat of steam power black.    

[e-paw]

Just a quick update... I applied 3 coats of engine black to the L-1, soon the undercarriage will get the same color...    

[Steamtrains]

Absolutely SPECTACULAR...
Great job....I like how you "snaked" the sand lines down to the drivers, and the brake shoes...
I debated doing that to my Mike, but figured they would be prone to damage during handling....They sure do look kool..!!

BTW....You must have plenty of pickles up your way....

[e-paw]

Thanks Steamtrains, I enjoyed your 2-8-2 build also. Although those started as pickle cars I converted them into cement cars. Here is the info on that build. <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4595">viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4595</a><!-- l -->

[e-paw]

Well while I was working on the L-1 I realised I forgot to take some pics .. Sorry, so I'll continue.

To improve the pickup and provide more reliable running I reversed the polarity of the tender so that the tender shell and boiler are electrically common. This eliminates the possibility of a short from the tender and cab touching in a sharp curve. With that done I needed to now provide pickups for the insulated (fireman's) side. Plastic was glued to each tender truck and brass wire was bent and secured with CA to each truck. Flexible wire was soldered to each wiper and pinned to the insulated contact on the motor.    

I installed the same kind of pickup wire on the center drivers of the drive.    

[e-paw]

The reason for all this work is so I can shorten the draw bar to bring the tender up to a more prototypical spacing. I took some measurements and started to cut a new draw bar from brass. I use a trick I learned from a machinist when working on this kind of project, I blackened to brass stock with a permanent marker and scribed the outline of the new draw bar in it. The new piece was cut out with a set of small shears and smoothed with a set of files.    

You can see here the difference between the stock and new draw bar.    

[Steamtrains]

So how does she run..?? I see you've got a flywheel/worm all built into one. I've been toying with the idea of putting one of those on my Mike, but not sure if the ones available from Yardbird Trains will fit in the existing setup.

[e-paw]

She runs like a top Steamtrains . At one time I was going to install one of the cam motor conversion kits from Helix Humper, But after a few test runs I decided it was unnecessary. That gear / motor combo is the original from the factory and I have no complaints about it.

[Steamtrains]

Thanks for the info...