Thanks for the inputs...They're most welcome...
While I'm not trying to model a specific engine, I am taking a few pointers here and there from the many pictures found in the MRR Cyclopedia of 2-8-2's. The "danger" in modeling engine "so-and-so", is that you leave the door wide open to the rivet counters to start knitpicking your efforts, since it's virtually impossible to reproduce a specific prototype (unless you are DrW, Kurt or Bernhard...).
My purpose in doing this is to raise a real "hog" to a level somewhat nearer to the offerings on the market today. And to have fun while doing it..!!
Steamtrains Wrote:Thanks for the inputs...They're most welcome...
While I'm not trying to model a specific engine, I am taking a few pointers here and there from the many pictures found in the MRR Cyclopedia of 2-8-2's. The "danger" in modeling engine "so-and-so", is that you leave the door wide open to the rivet counters to start knitpicking your efforts, since it's virtually impossible to reproduce a specific prototype (unless you are DrW, Kurt or Bernhard...).
My purpose in doing this is to raise a real "hog" to a level somewhat nearer to the offerings on the market today. And to have fun while doing it..!!
Fortunately, I haven't seen any evidence of "rivet counting nit pickers" here at Bib Blue!
P5se Camelback Wrote:I just now went back and was reviewing the whole thread when I realized (to my horror) that there is no Belpaire firebox ...
... and the locomotive in question is not a Pennsy L1s Mikado!
Never mind ...
I was thinking the same thing, I guess I (we) got the thread confused with the earlier thread that WAS a PRR L1s. Either way, you learned some new info and I am sure that the info was useful here in this thread as well.
Steamtrains Wrote:OK...So the last batch of parts came in yesterday - the top mounted check valve, and some lagged piping...
Now I got no 'scuze not to get to work and start getting this loco done.....
Sit around long enough and you'll find one...or one will find you. Been working on the Shifter for 6 years now with MANY excuses (some modeling related) that have come along to distract, divert and drain away my energy from that project.
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
I've been toying with the idea of starting work on the "final" build on my layout, which I'm itching to do....But have vowed not to do it until I've finished the loco...
So maybe that'll be incentive enough to get crackin'...
Spent the last couple of days filing off the parts I didn't think I was going to replace (turret block, check valve, and left side of firebox piping), and started fitting the turret and injector in place.
More to come...and maybe some pics...
BTW...Can I use a check valve like the top one for a side mounted valve..??
Steamtrains Wrote:BTW...Can I use a check valve like the top one for a side mounted valve..??
If you mean, can you use a top mount check valve, for a side mount.....I don't think so. Top mounts usually have two water input lines , where side mount check valves have only one. The entire housing would be different too.
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
With all the Bowser builds going on right now, I need to get off my can and start working on the 2 that I have.
I have a Light Micado and a USRA Pacific sitting in boxes. I don't have any powered rail down to run them on though.
The check valves I got seem to be one-sided only. The side opposite the water feed has a "pointy" look to it - not a place you could possibly attach another pipe to it....
Gus, the pointy bit (pointing down in your photo) is the mounting pin, so it requires a hole to be drilled in the boiler at the mounting location. By simply flipping it over, it can be used on either side of the loco. A top-mounted check valve can have either one or two input pipes. If there’s only one, it’s usually from a feedwater heater, and depending on the heater type, could be on either the fireman’s or engineer’s side of the loco. Dual feed top-mounted check valves usually utilise the input on the fireman’s side for the heater output and that on the opposite side for cold water from an injector. There are also top-mounted check valves with both inputs on the engineer’s side. These are usually used when the loco is equipped with a Coffin fwh, as its output is normally on the engineer’s side, the opposite of Elesco and Worthington heaters.
If the attached pipe is too short, the easiest way to lengthen it is to remove it completely, then drill the valve’s input end to accept a suitably-sized wire. Soldering the parts together is the best option, but ca or epoxy will also work if the hole is deep enough.
OK...I got the mounting pin all right, but the side opposite the hose seems to be something like a housing of sorts. The lifting injector I'm using for the CW has a hose attachment pipe and it is hollowed-out some to insert a pipe into it...Unlike this one.
![[Image: drumming_fingers.gif]](http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u302/Amhacajo/drumming_fingers.gif)
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