THE MIKE - IT'S FINISHED...!!!!

[Steamtrains]

Russ wrote...
"I suspect that the post under the smoke stack needs to be shortened slightly and drilled and retapped if necessary. I suspect that kits built in the "good old days" were not always as precise as what we are used to today!"

That reminds me of the very first comment I made on the initial post of the thread describing the build...

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If you scroll down to the fifth picture you can see how the cylinders/saddle units sit on the frame. This assembly is ok. The problem is not with the boiler seating "up", as it sits parallel to the ground (I measured the distance from the running boards to the "ground"), and they are OK. You can also see in the first picture the place where the c'catcher sits...It's the "step" down at the very front of the frame. I could mill that down some, but that would increase the gap between the running boards and the ladders....Guess I'll have to choose my poison, and like it....

[Russ Bellinis]

Russ wrote...
"I suspect that the post under the smoke stack needs to be shortened slightly and drilled and retapped if necessary. I suspect that kits built in the "good old days" were not always as precise as what we are used to today!"

That reminds me of the very first comment I made on the initial post of the thread describing the build...

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If you scroll down to the fifth picture you can see how the cylinders/saddle units sit on the frame. This assembly is ok. The problem is not with the boiler seating "up", as it sits parallel to the ground (I measured the distance from the running boards to the "ground"), and they are OK. You can also see in the first picture the place where the c'catcher sits...It's the "step" down at the very front of the frame. I could mill that down some, but that would increase the gap between the running boards and the ladders....Guess I'll have to choose my poison, and like it....

I guess I was trying to deal with the gap between the running boards and ladders, figuring that once that gap was solved, then you could look for a solution to deal with the height of the pilot.

[Steamtrains]

Russ,
I suppose it's a matter of "likes"...I dislike the raised c'catcher more than the gap between the ladder & running boards....
I was looking through the loco encyclopedia and note that most Mikes had "stepped' running boards, which eliminates the gap seen on my model with the straight running boards....Thanks a lot Mantua...!!! :evil:

I ordered a couple of things today that I need for it, when they get here I'll pop it open again and see what can be done...If anything. ..

[doctorwayne]

Sheesh! I must've been busier than I thought, as this is the first I've seen this thread. As I mentioned elsewhere, Gus, you did a great job on this loco.

You may be able to lower the pilot and all that's attached to it fairly easily if it can be easily removed. If I recall correctly, that loco has an extension of its frame on which the pilot mounts, and it's fairly thick. After the pilot and pony truck has been removed, clamp the extension in a vise, cover the rest of the loco, whether it's all in one assembly or stripped back to the frame, with a cloth, then use a coarse-cut mill file to remove material from the top of the frame. It might help to scribe a reference line around the edges of the frame extension to aid in keeping it level and to show the height desired. Don't remove too much material to the point where it weakens the frame.

Of course, once you get the pilot where you want it, you'll need to modify the running boards at their front ends. This is a little more work, especially on a finished (painted) loco, but not impossible. I'd suggest removing them completely, going back only far enough that the feedwater heater pump doesn't need to be moved. Whatever distance that may be, duplicate it on the other side of the smokebox, too. To add a new section of lowered running board, mark the smokebox side with a line (both sides, of course) that's level with the extreme top of the pilot steps: this represents the bottom face of the new running board extension. Below these lines, mark and centrepunch for holes to be drilled of a suitable size for the insertion of fairly heavy brass wire - minimum .030" diameter. Once drilled, the top edge of the circumference of the holes should just touch the marked line. The front holes should be drilled just aft of where the top rear of where the pilot steps will be, and the rear holes a little bit forward of where the front edge of the old running board ends. The holes should be at least 1/4" deep and, because you'll be working low on the boiler casting, don't worry about keeping the holes level with the "ground": it's most important that the entry point be where you've marked it. Once the wire's been inserted into the holes, the protruding ends can be bent into a level position. Cut two short pieces of running board from sheet brass, preferably of a thickness similar to the stock running boards - you can use a razor saw or cut-off disc for this. They'll possibly need to be wider than the stock running boards, as they'll be sitting lower on the curve of the boiler and therefore extend farther inboard.
When you have all the parts fabricated, clean them using fine sandpaper, then apply flux and tin the protruding ends of the wire and the underside of the new running board extensions. Place the wires into their proper holes in the smokebox, adjusting as required to level them to the ground, then set the running boards in place and sweat them to the wires.
After everything has cooled sufficiently, brush a little lacquer thinner on the soldered joints to dissolve any remaining flux, then wick-up the excess with a paper towel. Next, apply some ca to the wires where they enter the boiler casting - this will be drawn-in and should keep them in place. If you've been careful, the main painting required will be the new parts, plus any touch-up where the original finish may have been nicked or scratched.
As you say, this may not be something you want to tackle right away, but it's quite do-able and I have a feeling that it will gnaw at the back of your mind until you correct it.

Wayne

[Steamtrains]

Thanks Doc....The modifications you suggest just sent shivers up my back....
I had already identified the need to mill the "step" on the frame where the pilot is mounted to lower it. But I draw the line at taking a crack at the running boards, etc...
I really am kind'a all thumbs, so meticulous work like you suggest is a sure recipe for disaster...I would go as far as considering "growing " the ladders and adding a step to them. I might be able to pull that off without ruining anything...I think...

[doctorwayne]

.....I really am kind'a all thumbs, so meticulous work like you suggest is a sure recipe for disaster...I would go as far as considering "growing " the ladders and adding a step to them. I might be able to pull that off without ruining anything...I think...

Well, you've already built a detailed locomotive for yourself, so all those thumbs must be workin' pretty well.

Wayne

[Steamtrains]

Just after my last post, I came up with an alternative to milling the base to lower the pilot. I think just shimming the back portion of the pilot will lower the front enough to receive a passing grade. That will be my first option, even though that will also "swing" the ladders forward, away from the running boards. If that doesn't work, I'll have to go the milling route and extend the ladders.

The thumbs behave themselves every now and then....

[Schraddel]

Gus!

In an posting i asked you if the pilot casting is brass. Now brass castings are an rather soft material capable of bending without breaking. So if you have the pilot removed from the loco, take some looks the pilot is really straight and square. If not bend it carefully untill it is straight. When now the pilot deck and the cow catcher are square and mounted in the correct height take a further look to the ladders. Bend them carefully upwards to the running boards.
As control use the steps in the ladders. They have to be in horizontal position. It may possible the gaps are now vanished.
If not, then you can decide what to do.
Make the steps longer by glueing some stripes on the sides of the ladder.
Or alternate the running board and make a step in it.

My 2 Cent

Lutz

[Steamtrains]

Lutz, and everyone else....Thanks for the advice.
Unfortunately, the pilot is not brass (at least I don't think it is...). It's a white metal casting, which I believe is much harder than brass, and not flexible at all.

In any event, when the parts I need come in ( hopefully this week...) I'll pop the boiler off again and get to work on the pilot. One way or the other it's going to get fixed, preferably without ruining anything else.... I'll have to do something about that headlight screw as well....

I'll keep you all informed as to the success, or lack of it, sometime this week....

[Steamtrains]

Well...Here's the findings, and remedies of my pilot issue...

Turns out the "culprit" was the shank of the front coupler that was just barely sitting on the frame, not allowing the pilot to sit squarely on the frame. Stupid shank....
I cut off the offending portion and re-seated the pilot and that fixed it....I also re-routed the wires from the front light so they wouldn't interfere with the boiler's sitting fully on the frame.
The only "down" side to the fix was the need to replace the ladder handrails as they were now just a bit short. Having done that, she now is even MORE beautiful...

Case closed....

[doctorwayne]

.......

Case closed....

Hey! Not so fast! You doan gots no peek-chers?

Wayne

[Steamtrains]

Will post as soon as my camera gets back....Loaned out...

[doctorwayne]

Looking forward to it, Gus, and glad that you were able to make the improvements relatively easily.

Wayne

[Steamtrains]

Hey...A few pics of the "new & improved" version of Mike 811....

Here she is handily climbing the grade towards the El Diablo mine...



Heading into, and crossing the bridge over the El Diablo Gorge...



Around the bend in front of the mine, and heading for Las Cruces...



And a last pic which clearly shows the lowered pilot assembly....


Now she's all set to pound the rails for a good long time to come....

[doctorwayne]

Nice work, Gus. She looks a lot better and I'll bet that you feel a lot better for having made the alteration.

Wayne