Viperman's HO layout progress
#31
I let my 4yr old son hang out with me when working on the layout. He likes to play with his trucks and trains on it too. I figure he can't do any damage at this point, since its all foam, so why not!? PLUS, it gets him involved too Cheers
-Steven-

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#32
Quote:Postby viperman on Wed Apr 15, 2009 11:03 pm
Then I moved on to the rock cut scene. I applied a generous amount of plaster, I know I'll have to add some more once it all dries up. Problem is, I'm not really sure how I want the rock cut itself to look when done. I could use some ideas!


Hi Steven,

Coming on well Thumbsup while the plaster is wet you could add more Talus in various grades and some contouring to the rock sides i realise this is a different method but it could give you some ideas <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=222&p=10263&hilit=easy+rock+strata#p10263">viewtopic.php?f=44&t=222&p=10263&hilit=easy+rock+strata#p10263</a><!-- l -->
See you posted there but just to remind you of other techniques Icon_lol

Keep the pics of progress coming
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#33
Perhaps I could do something like Steve's method. I'll still need to apply a 2nd layer of plaster, so maybe when that 2nd layer is a bit tacky, I could try to slice it. Not the same thing, but similar
-Steven-

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#34
YES YES YES!!! Outstanding work! Cheers

You can always try the crinkled up foil method for making a rocky face. In this area, it may be really neat also to add some bore holes from the blasting of this cut. Depends on how 'new' the cut is, I suppose, as to how much growth has appeared, such as moss, weeds, etc. Also keep drainage in mind, with gullies coming away from the cut alongside the track.

You are well on your way to some really neat scenes (IF I do say so myself!) Still waiting for the Hannibal Smith moment...cigar in teeth, smiling and saying..."I love it when a plan comes together".

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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#35
Steven-nice job so far on the rocks.Can't wait to see more progress shots. Bob
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#36
Galen, if it wasn't for you, I wouldn't be able to be where I'm at now! Thank you for the compliments, as well as the track plan! Cheers

Thanks to everyone else for the compliments! I also appreciate the ideas for the rocks, and so far I'm kinda diggin the tin foil idea
-Steven-

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#37
I should probably elaborate on the foil idea a bit. There's really TWO ways (at least...I bet there are more if you're creative) to utilize foil for rockwork. ONE - crinkle the foil into a loose ball then open it and use that as a mold by either filling it with peanut-butter consistancy plaster or smearing the plaster in place and pressing the foil onto that. TWO - crinkle the foil into a ball but DON'T open it again. Spread the plaster in place and dab the crinkly ball or roll it across the plaster once it is well on its way to setting. I bet your kiddo would enjoy the second one the best.

Once the plaster has set here's a simple technique for painting the rock face. (again, no offense if you don't use this technique, just add it to your options). First drench it with your base rock color. Let that dry, somewhat. Next, taking a soft broad brush, load the brush with a black wash of your choice. Starting at the bottom of the rock face drag the brush up to the top. The wash should flow into the cracks and the upward stroke should hit the shadows more than the exposed upper sides of the rock. Again, let that mostly dry. Finally, lighten your base rock color by a third or half or so with white or gray or a light tan, depending on your base. Dry brush this from the top down, to hit the upsides of the rock.

This is just a basic coloring scheme. I like to wash the base dirt color over the rocks as well, depending on whether it's a cut or an exposed face that has been washed with rain and the sun for eons. But you can do that when you color the scenery surrounding the rock face.

Keep us posted!

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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#38
Steven,

I haven't checked in for a while. It is coming along nicely. Do you know what kind of water medium you are going to use for your water scene? The reason I ask is because unless you are using a self leveling medium, you may want to sand that plaster smooth. The surface of the water will show every divot or peak of the substrate material. On the flip side, that could come in handy for making some surface texture on the water.

Matt
Don't follow me, I'm lost too.
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#39
iis612 Wrote:Steven,

I haven't checked in for a while. It is coming along nicely. Do you know what kind of water medium you are going to use for your water scene? The reason I ask is because unless you are using a self leveling medium, you may want to sand that plaster smooth. The surface of the water will show every divot or peak of the substrate material. On the flip side, that could come in handy for making some surface texture on the water.

Matt
Haven't put any thought to it yet. Time will tell, as will my budget
-Steven-

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#40
Hey Steven - just rememberd where I'd seen that crumpled ball o foil technique (pressing the crumpled ball onto wet plaster). Pelle Soeberg's articles in MR on the Donner River sub scene. He used the foil ball to aid in blending rock castings together.

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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#41
Galen,
That's the method I've been thinking of using, for a few weeks now. You mentioning it in your last post just pushed me even more in that direction
-Steven-

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#42
I'm a bit late arriving at the party, but it looks like you've got the situation well "in hand". Misngth A good method for smoothing out the plaster before it sets is to use a cheap 2" paint brush - simply dip it in water, then stroke it over the wet plaster. Not what you'd want for the rock faces, of course, but good for softening the contours of a lake bottom or field.

viperman Wrote:.... Been looking for Deano, but I don't see him posting here at all. Would love to hear from him again too.

Deano is a Member here, but is pre-occupied with work and other personal business, and is on a bit of a sabbatical, both from the forums and from his own modelling. Lots of us look forward to his return. Goldth

Wayne
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#43
looking the goods Steven. Cheers I must really study the methods here as I have a water course to model coming up very soon and need to find some skills somewhere.
Those twigs and rocks are a good idea, and the painting method is something I'm always looking to improve, so those tips from galen are are boost, keeps us posted on the progress.


Jack 219
LIFE....
..... Abandon the search for truth
Look for a good fantasy
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#44
I do plan to paint the bottom of the lake and river in a brown (undecided on actual color so far), then over that I plan to glue down some sand/dirt/etc to give the ground some texture. Water is a long way off yet
-Steven-

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#45
Got some work done a couple days ago! Not usual for me to be up there during the week, so I had to take advantage of the opportunity.

I checked on the rock walls in the rock cut, and they look really good the way they are. I need to do very little touching up on them, they already have the bumps and dips that you would see on a rock face, plus some minor cracks that I can either hide easily, or blend them into the scenery like some minor cracks in the rocks. Thumbsup

[Image: MYlayout-32.jpg]

Then (with the help of my son) I used some WS risers to form a road (thanks Nazgul for the idea!!!) where the trucks will come down off the hill where the bridge will be, and leads down to the lake area where the lumber mill area is.

An overall shot of this scene:
[Image: MYlayout-33.jpg]

And another angle:
[Image: MYlayout-31.jpg]
-Steven-

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