01-02-2017, 02:18 PM
Class lights can be made fairly easily using fibre optics, and can be made functional, if so desired.
Mine are strictly for appearances, as seen on this FPA-4 based on a Model Power FA-2...
![[Image: Foe-toesfromTrainPhotos2007third-7.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/locomotives/Foe-toesfromTrainPhotos2007third-7.jpg)
...or this modified older Athearn geep...
![[Image: otherlocos004.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/locomotives/otherlocos004.jpg)
I use a fairly small diameter fibre, and use the heat from a soldering iron to form the "lense". The distance from the heat source and the duration of exposure to it, determine the size of the finished lense. With a little practice, you can make scale-size lenses of consistent sizes. I use a piece about 1" long, holding one end with pliers while forming the lense. If the first attempt gets too big or starts to droop, slice it off and try again with the remaining length.
For working class lights, the length of fibre should be longer than needed to reach the light source, then trimmed to length after an acceptable lense has been created.
To install the lense, working or not, drill a hole sized for the fibre itself, then countersink the exterior of that hole using a drill bit sized to the diameter of the lense which has been created. On the geep, I painted the depressions a light grey, but forgot do do so on the FPA-4.
The circumference of the lense should just fit into the depression formed, while the raised arc of the lense's face will protrude prototypically.
Wayne
Mine are strictly for appearances, as seen on this FPA-4 based on a Model Power FA-2...
...or this modified older Athearn geep...
I use a fairly small diameter fibre, and use the heat from a soldering iron to form the "lense". The distance from the heat source and the duration of exposure to it, determine the size of the finished lense. With a little practice, you can make scale-size lenses of consistent sizes. I use a piece about 1" long, holding one end with pliers while forming the lense. If the first attempt gets too big or starts to droop, slice it off and try again with the remaining length.
For working class lights, the length of fibre should be longer than needed to reach the light source, then trimmed to length after an acceptable lense has been created.
To install the lense, working or not, drill a hole sized for the fibre itself, then countersink the exterior of that hole using a drill bit sized to the diameter of the lense which has been created. On the geep, I painted the depressions a light grey, but forgot do do so on the FPA-4.
The circumference of the lense should just fit into the depression formed, while the raised arc of the lense's face will protrude prototypically.
Wayne