12-11-2009, 10:49 PM
I think that you've still got more fixtures than you need, and also that you're adding to the cost by installing them between the joists.
Here's a rough sketch, using 25 fixtures. While the distance between fixtures varies slightly, the maximum is 2 1/2' - in my layout room, most are 4' apart. Note that the entire fixture, in all cases, is entirely above the layout, and very near to the aisle. If you're drywalling the room, I'd suggest coving the corners: then, with a reasonably light colour for the "sky", all corners will be well-lit. Note too that the fixtures on the end walls are offset to maintain, more-or-less, the spacing and therefore, the light distribution.
![[Image: Layoutlighting003.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/Layout%20room%20tour/Layoutlighting003.jpg)
You could use straight utility-grade lights, with just the metal fixture box and the exposed tubes, or opt for the slightly more expensive type with a wrap-around acrylic light diffuser.
By mounting the lights on the ceiling rather than in it, you'll get a much wider distribution of light, including reflected light from the backdrop. Rather than directing it straight down from an enclosed fixture, the light will flood the layout below, eliminating "hot spots" beneath individual fixtures and the resultant dark areas between fixtures. This allows you to use fewer fixtures and also simplifies ceiling framing.
Wiring could be above the ceiling, or on the ceiling using conduit or race-way type protection.
I neglected to mention it, but my preference for a structure such as you're constructing is for a solid door (no window) and no windows in the building, either. Sunlight, while nice for photos, is difficult to control, not always present when you need it, will add to the cooling requirements of your building, and will fade your scenery even faster than will the fluorescents. Windows are also an easy way in for intruders - not good in a building separate from the house.
Wayne
Here's a rough sketch, using 25 fixtures. While the distance between fixtures varies slightly, the maximum is 2 1/2' - in my layout room, most are 4' apart. Note that the entire fixture, in all cases, is entirely above the layout, and very near to the aisle. If you're drywalling the room, I'd suggest coving the corners: then, with a reasonably light colour for the "sky", all corners will be well-lit. Note too that the fixtures on the end walls are offset to maintain, more-or-less, the spacing and therefore, the light distribution.
You could use straight utility-grade lights, with just the metal fixture box and the exposed tubes, or opt for the slightly more expensive type with a wrap-around acrylic light diffuser.
By mounting the lights on the ceiling rather than in it, you'll get a much wider distribution of light, including reflected light from the backdrop. Rather than directing it straight down from an enclosed fixture, the light will flood the layout below, eliminating "hot spots" beneath individual fixtures and the resultant dark areas between fixtures. This allows you to use fewer fixtures and also simplifies ceiling framing.
Wiring could be above the ceiling, or on the ceiling using conduit or race-way type protection.
I neglected to mention it, but my preference for a structure such as you're constructing is for a solid door (no window) and no windows in the building, either. Sunlight, while nice for photos, is difficult to control, not always present when you need it, will add to the cooling requirements of your building, and will fade your scenery even faster than will the fluorescents. Windows are also an easy way in for intruders - not good in a building separate from the house.
Wayne