12-12-2009, 10:59 PM
Wayne:
Re: Coved Corners - Great idea on how to do that. I understand your explanation completely and it sounds very simple. I can definitely do that. The pictures were worth a thousand words too.
Like I mentioned, the only issue would be the two corners where my existing shelves will go. GERN is nestled into a square corner, so I would have to make some modifications of the structures. Alternatively, I could slide the shelf down the wall a bit to leave some room for the cove, and then add on to the GERN structures to fill in. The other shelf I will be using has an industrial spur reaching into the square corner, with no structure as of yet. I could easily trim the spur back and make the cove, then design the structure to fit into the curved corner.
I am planning on putting the sheetrock in vertically as you mentioned. That is typically what they do in commercial buildings around here. Not sure why they usually go horizontal in residential construction. By placing the sheets on the vertical, the taping and floating is done on the edges which have the taper so you end up with a nice joint that doesn't bend out from the wall. But with the horizontal, you have to contend with the non-tapered ends every 8 feet (depending on size of sheetrock). Most of the commercial buildings I ever worked on had a smooth finish for the paint, whereas residential typically has a heavier texture which hides the imperfections better. Of course, I'll be going with the smooth finish on the walls. Ceiling will be textured.
I've changed my mind about trying to allow for the future usage of the building. I mean, this is MY trainroom! Like you mention, a future owner can just make whatever changes they deem necessary without me having tried to guess what they wanted. I still may put in a couple of small windows up high in case I ever need to have some ventilation, for instance if I am painting or such and need some airflow.
As for wood, it is definitely getting harder and harder to find straight lumber. Seems they rush the stuff to market without proper drying as you mention. For the studs, I have been getting premium grade whitewood, and have been being choosy when I am getting the boards. I look at every one individually and only take the straight ones. The whitewood tends to stay straighter than the southern pine which is plentiful down here. Now, for the 2x6s, pretty much all they have is pine, but again, I took my time and picked through them to get only the straight ones (well, the straight ENOUGH ones). I am sure the employees don't appreciate me picking through the boards, but oh well. Plus, I am getting the boards from three different HDs so I am not wearing out my welcome! I do try to keep their piles neat and orderly instead of making a wreck out of them.
So far, in 5 trips with the short wheelbase pickup, I have gathered up:
50 - 2x6x14 for the rafters
30 - 2x6x10 for the joists (need more)
110 - 2x4 studs (may need a few more)
10 - 2x4x12 treated for the bottom plates
10 - 2x4x12 for the top plates
The 14 footers stuck out pretty far in the short bed! I put the tailgate down, so the overall length is about eith feet, leaving 6 feet hanging out the back. I tied them down good, and didn't have any problems. Yes, I could have had HD deliver the entire lumber order, but then I wouldn't get the chance to pick through them for the straight ones.
Hopefully they won't warp too bad over the next few weeks as they sit in my garage. I will "crown" the boards, which is taking a string from one end to the other to detect if the board is curved along the 4" or 6" side, then any crown will be placed up so that the weight will help pull it back straight.
I already have 6 - 2x12x16 that I will be using for the ridgeline and other structural purposes, plus a bunch of 2x4x16s that will be used for the second layer on the top plate and other misc bracing.
If it isn't raining tomorrow, I may do some layout on the bottom plates and drill them to fit over the anchor bolts.
Thanks again for all the advice. Keep it coming if you can think of anything else as I go along. Also, loved the photos of your layout construction!
Gary
Re: Coved Corners - Great idea on how to do that. I understand your explanation completely and it sounds very simple. I can definitely do that. The pictures were worth a thousand words too.
Like I mentioned, the only issue would be the two corners where my existing shelves will go. GERN is nestled into a square corner, so I would have to make some modifications of the structures. Alternatively, I could slide the shelf down the wall a bit to leave some room for the cove, and then add on to the GERN structures to fill in. The other shelf I will be using has an industrial spur reaching into the square corner, with no structure as of yet. I could easily trim the spur back and make the cove, then design the structure to fit into the curved corner.
I am planning on putting the sheetrock in vertically as you mentioned. That is typically what they do in commercial buildings around here. Not sure why they usually go horizontal in residential construction. By placing the sheets on the vertical, the taping and floating is done on the edges which have the taper so you end up with a nice joint that doesn't bend out from the wall. But with the horizontal, you have to contend with the non-tapered ends every 8 feet (depending on size of sheetrock). Most of the commercial buildings I ever worked on had a smooth finish for the paint, whereas residential typically has a heavier texture which hides the imperfections better. Of course, I'll be going with the smooth finish on the walls. Ceiling will be textured.
I've changed my mind about trying to allow for the future usage of the building. I mean, this is MY trainroom! Like you mention, a future owner can just make whatever changes they deem necessary without me having tried to guess what they wanted. I still may put in a couple of small windows up high in case I ever need to have some ventilation, for instance if I am painting or such and need some airflow.
As for wood, it is definitely getting harder and harder to find straight lumber. Seems they rush the stuff to market without proper drying as you mention. For the studs, I have been getting premium grade whitewood, and have been being choosy when I am getting the boards. I look at every one individually and only take the straight ones. The whitewood tends to stay straighter than the southern pine which is plentiful down here. Now, for the 2x6s, pretty much all they have is pine, but again, I took my time and picked through them to get only the straight ones (well, the straight ENOUGH ones). I am sure the employees don't appreciate me picking through the boards, but oh well. Plus, I am getting the boards from three different HDs so I am not wearing out my welcome! I do try to keep their piles neat and orderly instead of making a wreck out of them.
So far, in 5 trips with the short wheelbase pickup, I have gathered up:
50 - 2x6x14 for the rafters
30 - 2x6x10 for the joists (need more)
110 - 2x4 studs (may need a few more)
10 - 2x4x12 treated for the bottom plates
10 - 2x4x12 for the top plates
The 14 footers stuck out pretty far in the short bed! I put the tailgate down, so the overall length is about eith feet, leaving 6 feet hanging out the back. I tied them down good, and didn't have any problems. Yes, I could have had HD deliver the entire lumber order, but then I wouldn't get the chance to pick through them for the straight ones.
Hopefully they won't warp too bad over the next few weeks as they sit in my garage. I will "crown" the boards, which is taking a string from one end to the other to detect if the board is curved along the 4" or 6" side, then any crown will be placed up so that the weight will help pull it back straight.
I already have 6 - 2x12x16 that I will be using for the ridgeline and other structural purposes, plus a bunch of 2x4x16s that will be used for the second layer on the top plate and other misc bracing.
If it isn't raining tomorrow, I may do some layout on the bottom plates and drill them to fit over the anchor bolts.
Thanks again for all the advice. Keep it coming if you can think of anything else as I go along. Also, loved the photos of your layout construction!
Gary
Three Foot Rule In Effect At All Times