Manual Turn-out Control
#3
My layout has 2" foam on top, so the switch is mounted about 3" below the track. The bent aluminum piece will stick up through a hole in the foam and the wire will go into the turn-out.

We have to drill 5 holes in the bracket. Two will match up to the mounting holes on the switch, two for mounting the bracket underneath the layout, and one for the spring wire.

[Image: image.php?album_id=125&image_id=2331]

And the small hole for the spring wire:

[Image: image.php?album_id=125&image_id=2332]

Here is the bracket attached to the switch, with the spring wire extending through the hole.

[Image: image.php?album_id=125&image_id=2333]

For the operator, we use a 10-24 threaded rod and a wooden drawer knob. The knob screws onto the rod, but I put some Aleene's Tacky Glue in the hole just to make sure it holds well.

[Image: image.php?album_id=125&image_id=2334]

And here is the completed controller. To install, the rod is unscrewed from the rod coupling, the bracket/switch is mounted under the layout with wire extending into the turn-out. A hole is drilled in the fascia, the rod is inserted through the hole and screwed into the rod coupling. Push and pull equals diffferent route! The 3-way switch is used to power the frog.

[Image: image.php?album_id=125&image_id=2335]

And here is a photo of my old style controller which is way harder to build:

[Image: image.php?album_id=125&image_id=2336]

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