09-21-2009, 08:57 PM
Rob: some of your Hornby Dublo (and maybe old TriAng) will have a little pad in a box at one end of the motor (near the worm). This can take several drops of oil. The bearing point at the other end can take the smallest drop of oil on the end of a toothpick.
I always use Labelle's plastic compatible oil and grease, even on all metal parts. I don't oil the newer bits all that often, but those tender drives and the diesel pancake motors (the ones that are a single unit) start to screech when they're dry. They need a drop on the ends of the motor shaft.
For the time taken, $20 for lubricating and inspection is reasonable but it's money you could keep by doing it yourself. At the moment, I trust myself to take a British prototype apart more than most of the LHS in America.
I always use Labelle's plastic compatible oil and grease, even on all metal parts. I don't oil the newer bits all that often, but those tender drives and the diesel pancake motors (the ones that are a single unit) start to screech when they're dry. They need a drop on the ends of the motor shaft.
For the time taken, $20 for lubricating and inspection is reasonable but it's money you could keep by doing it yourself. At the moment, I trust myself to take a British prototype apart more than most of the LHS in America.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.