Van Hobbies brass CNR N-5-d 2-8-0 rebuild/ Finished pics add

[Wayne R]

Paul

I use the 2 x 3mm super incandesent LEDs by Ngineering. They are the second ones down on the following web page of theirs. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ngineering.com/lightng.htm">http://www.ngineering.com/lightng.htm</a><!-- m --> For wires I use their #38 magnet wire. It is at the top of this page. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ngineering.com/accessories.htm">http://www.ngineering.com/accessories.htm</a><!-- m --> I solder a piece of wire to eacj pad on the back of the LED ( you will need a good eye site or and opti-visor ) then I insulate the solder pads with a little bit of silicon or liquid electrical tap so the LED does not short out on the inside of the brass headlight. To run the wires fron the headlight into the boiler I drill a hole in the back of the headlight and through the boiler front just big enough for the two wires. I do not remeber the size but it is smaller than a 1/16th" drill bit. I also pain the wires black for a inch or so after the LED so the green and red lacquer coating on the wires does not show between the headlight and the boiler front. With thee wires painted black and thanks to their small size they barely even show in the small gap behind the headlight.When you drill the hole for the wires throught the back of the headlight and through the boiler front puts a small piece of wood between the headlight and boiler front to keep from bending the headlight back under the pressure of drilling.Also do not use a new out of the package bit. I find one that has been used a half dozen times is less likely to grab and twist the headlight off.
I also paint the inside of the headlight silver.For a lens I use a MV Products lens with the foil backing removed.If you are very careful you should be able to lift the foil backing on the MV lens at the edge of the lens using the tip of a #11 xacto blade.Once you get a bit of the foil lifted it can be peeled off with a pair of tweezers.Just be carful not to scratch the lens.
The LED will need a proper resistor for both DC or DCC use as they are only 3 volts.I do not remember off hand the size I used but I will check my notes in the next few days and post it here if I wrote it down.If you do a google search you should be able to find a online calculator that lets you enter the voltage you wish to use to power the LED, The voltage the LED requires and the milliamps the LED pulls and it will then give you a resistor size.

I should also mention if you are unsure you can wire the 2 x 3mm LED that they can be found prewired on Ebay for a half decent price.I wire my own even though I have shaky hands but I can see where the prewired ones would save a little frustration.


Wayne Reid

[SABLENIP]

Thank you Wayne for your comprehensive reply. I wll try your method on an less critical loco first. I like the hints about blocking the gap and using a run in drill.
For circuitry, you might be interested in using a constant current device LM334Z if not using DCC.
I have made up this circuit and it does not depend on motor current, as some can motors do not draw enough current to produce the proper voltage drop for a diode network. But the LM334Z does not allow the dimming in reverse effect that the diode triangle does. The circuit and construction details are on <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.pollensoftware.com/railroad/circuit.html">http://www.pollensoftware.com/railroad/circuit.html</a><!-- m --> if this of any help to you. I haven't tried it yet, but I think reverse dmming could be achieved with a second diode controlled LM334Z and a higher value resistor.
FYI, my favourite road is C&O and I have a brass Alleghany that turned 50 on Anzac Day (25th April) that I bought from the owner of REBoxx who fitted the original box with a new foam insert. Nice. Other brass is a C&O L2a 4-6-4, Santa Fe 2-8-0, Santa Fe 4-8-2 factory paint, USRA 2-8-2 Heavy, D&RGW M75 4-8-2 (3 cyl). I also have a very old Tenshodo NYC Hudson that I bought years ago as a wreck. I have been having fun getting it to run reliably and fitting it with constant lighting. It really needs a can motor to lower the starting voltage and a new gearbox, as it it is fairly quiet forward but a real growler in reverse, I think some of this is due to a lot of fore and aft end play in the OFM motor, and next time I have it apart I will see if I can do anything about that, I'm working on reconstructing the front ladders which were partly missing or have fallen apart, but I would like to build a resistance soldering unit before I complete them, as they have a habit of falling apart when i try to attach them to the running boards.
I also have some nice modern plastic with DCC and sound, and while I like sound, I really enyoy the quiet smooth running of good brass, and the feel when I pick them up.

Anyway, thanks again forr your help on the lighting installation.

Regards, Paul

[SABLENIP]

Helo Wayne, Paul again
I meant to write earlier after looking up the links you gave me to ngineering. I didn't know there were such small LEDs on the market. I see what you mean about eyesight, I think I will order an optivisor before I buy any LEDs.
BTW, the 50 yr old Alleghany I mentioned is an Akane, a classic. I don't plan to alter it in any way.

Kind regards, Paul

[Kanawha]

Wayne, as usual I look at your locomotive detailing jobs with a combination of envy and shame for my own lack of talent in this area of modeling. I have to ask, what is your favorite source for steam detail parts? I'm really up the creek looking for C&O style feedwater heaters and vandy pumps.

[doctorwayne]

For detail parts, Bowser offers the Cal-Scale and Cary lines, and Precision Scale has an extensive line of detail parts, too.

Wayne

[Kanawha]

Thank you !
-Alex