Making good Masking

[jwb]

Or scan it to a file and play with the contrast in the Windows photo editor. All you need is the outlines.

[doctorwayne]

Basically-

Fluted Area- Chrome

Flat Area- Stainless Steel

Window band- Black/Dark Gray

The Whole car- GLoss Black base Coat

My mistake GEC: I didn't realise that the smooth area also needed to have the gloss black applied first.
You said that the Alclad is very well-thinned - perhaps you could paint the entire car gloss black, then paint the stainless steel colour on the flat area without masking. You could hold a paper or cardstock mask over the majority of the fluted area to prevent too much overspray. When the stainless steel paint is fully cured, mask over it, then apply another coat of gloss black over the fluted area in order to cover any overspray of the stainless steel paint from the previous step. When that's dry, apply the chrome paint to the fluted area. After that's cured and the masking tape removed, you'll need only to mask the flat area in order to paint the black area around the front windows - no masking at all on the fluted areas.

The main area of concern appears to be the part # 41-027. At the end of this part, where the tip assemly screws in, there are two holes. One large centered hole where the pin fits through, and then one much smaller hole offset to the left that appears to be where the paint is sucked in from. I have not managed to be able to effectively work a pipe cleaner or other implement all the way through this hole, but I strongly suspect there is paint stuck in there.

Regardless, I'm going to check the airbrush again. I may be missing something.

Okay, the large centred hole will accept a pipe cleaner, so it's probably the smaller one that's causing the problem. Use a small diameter brass wire (Detail Associates offers soft brass wire in various diameters) to gently probe the smaller hole. If it's the cause of the trouble, the other end of that passageway should also be visible somewhere on the body of the airbrush and you may be able to attack from both ends. I'd suggest avoiding the use of steel wire unless you can't make progress with the softer brass, which is less likely to scar the inside of the passage. If you have to resort to steel, use piano (music) wire - it's flexible enough to go around turns without becoming permanently bent. If you discover a blockage in this manner, remember to give that area special attention every time you clean your airbrush.

Wayne

[Eccentric-Crank]

Hi folks, I skimmed over the whole thread, and read some in detail,so if Imissed something already dicussed please forgive me.

I haven't noticed any reference to liquid masking fluid, which can be very handy for tears in masks and also for window frames and gaskets.

Frisket film is also available from art suppliers and specialty automotive suppliers for things such as motorcycle art and helmets. Think of it as stretchy Mac-Tac.

I always spray silver metal last as it doesn't like handling.

I always use high-gloss paints and use a dull finish clear after decals for insurance against bleeding and silvering.

I was taught to paint locomotives by a retired Canadian Pacific painter on full-scale engines and some of the techniques still apply to models.

First spray the pinstripe colour freehand where its supposed to go and let dry thoroughly.

Cut strips of tape or friskett the width of the stripe and carefully apply and rub down, fixing tears with liquid mask.

Next is the step that was a eurika moment for me, spray another coat of pinstripe colour, this seals the mask and guess what?
If it bleeds it doesn't matter because it's the same as the paint under the tape!

When this dries go to the next colour, in this case gray (use the lightest first if you can).

Spray then let dry, the magic in this technique is that the next mask is easier because you literally have a margin for error the width of the stripe.

Always re-spray the previous colour and let dry to seal the mask.

Spray the next colour etc.

Someone I used to know would spray the letters and numbers areas with the approprate colour at the same stage as the pin-stripes, then apply rub-on transfers.
The transfer colours don't matter.

Then he would spray the surrounding coat and when dry carfully scratch away the transfers revealing the perfectly painted characters underneath! No decals! Guaranteed match between numbers/letters and stripes!

Check out some of the model aircraft real metal finishes, and gold-leafing methods, for durable stunning results.

When I get some free time, I'm going to try some new masking tape called "Frog Tape".
They claim that it self-seals with moisture.

Hope this helps!

Eccentric-Crank

[Steamtrains]

The best "masking" tape I've used is model R/C pinstriping tape. The one I've used is about a 1/4" wide, but there are other widths available. It is only a fraction as thick as regular masking tape, and can be curved without "pinching". Try it....It's great..!!

[Green_Elite_Cab]

I was just thinking about this thread to, since i've been keeping my eye on an undecorated E8 at a local hobby shop. I'm not sure yet if I want to do Conrail or NJ DOT, but having had over a month to ponder the job, I'm not so afraid of the NJ DOT paint.

I don't know why it took me so long to understand the concept of the guide tape, since it occurred to me that it is necessary in order to carefully lay the other "real" mask without stretching the tape.

I have heard the "spray the paint over the mask twice" strategy. It certainly works most of the time, though on my last major paint job, it did not. However, I blamed this entirely on just my inability to get the masking tape all the way down (Metro North paint scheme on a GP40 for those who are curious).

Now that I've cleared my work bench of the "junk" build up that seems to occur when the layout is not in use, I might actually have time to get some modeling done!