Lets build a camelback,, or two.

[e-paw]

That's some great stuff. I liked the link to the Tyco forum that had some of my dads posts in it. Thanks for the links.

[toptrain]

E-paw ; Nice castings ! Good to see you got back to the Decapods. All the big stuff is done. Do you have the boiler smokebox fronts made.
* Your do all that good work and my 2 Reading I-6 2-8-0 camelbacks are looking realy bad. Need much more work.



POP

               

[CNJ774]

Howdy; While trying to dig up some Long Island G53sd photos, I came across this little LIRR camelback. Have fun - David

[e-paw]

I'm a little late on my posts so this is what I did last week.

    The air tanks are now complete and ready for install. the brackets and straps are cut from some scrap styrene, just as I did on my 4-8-0. Once they are glued in place on the top of the fire box I will bend and cut the air lines the interconnect them.

    I have also installed the rear sand dome and fabricated the hatches for both front and rear domes. The sand lines are also now glued and soldered in place. Right behind the cab I have scratched out the auxiliary steam dome. At this time it only contains the three pop valves, a whistle will be added later. The main steam dome (that houses the throttle) would normally be located under the center cab. It will not be able to be seen so I'm leaving it off these models. when I pick out a bell it will be mounted at the back of the firebox just before the rear shelter.

[e-paw]

The air tanks and piping have been installed.    

[Puddlejumper]

You amaze me sir.

[e-paw]

Just a quick update... I finished up the walkways on the two 2-10-0.    

I am having trouble finding a set of stacks for the pair,, not sure what to use yet. And yes I am aware that the grabs in the fireman's shelter are not the same. the castings have warped a little when they cured when they are not parked end to end, ( as if there is a reason to put them that way) it is not that noticeable.

[sailormatlac]

Beautiful!! The cabs really turned out well! Do you still have a lot of work to do on them?

Matt

[doctorwayne]

When I rebuilt my Athearn Mikados, I felt that the stacks were a little bit on the puny side, so I removed them. To create new ones, I used some 9/32" brass tubing, adding a soldered-on flange around the top made from .015"x.042" brass strip stock. I drilled through the top of the smokebox to get a more solid mounting, and there was enough of the original cast-on mounting flange left to look acceptable. If you need a mounting flange, cut a suitably-sized disc from sheet styrene or brass - .010" or .015" thick should do if using styrene, and something a little thinner if using brass. Emboss some rivet/bolt head detail on it, and cement or solder it, as appropriate, in place. The easiest way to mount the stack is to simply drill a hole, then solder or cement it in place.




Wayne

[e-paw]

At this point I have installed a few more of the boiler details. For the stack I used a part from Bethlehem car works ( part # 2162). It's a 24 inch high stack with a base that has all the bolt details cast into it. It took a little fitting to get them to set just right. The rest of the parts are from Cal-Scale The generator is part 3 ge-213, the boiler checks are cv-265,and the power reverse is #pr-216.

   

   

I had to build a small bracket in order for power reverse to be mounted in the right location. It hangs from the under side of the walkway under the enginers cab. The stack is held in place with CA, the same is for the bracket on the power reverse. Everything else is soldered into place.

[Puddlejumper]

Absolutely phenomenal! You are an inspiration.

Dave

[e-paw]

Thanks for the remarks gentle men. I reused a few of the old detail parts from the boiler on my camels. The two donor engines ,although the same manufacture and even road name, have a few differences. One was DCC , (I removed the decoder) the other DC. One had cast metal walk ways, the other plastic. The way that the domes mounted to the boilers and even the whistles were different. there are a few other things here and there that are also dissimilar enough to make me really think about witch details to reuse.

    This picture shows that I have located the air compressor just in front of the break mans cab, and the bell at the rear of the firebox. Both of these detail parts were salvaged from the old models.


    I was also able to reuse the air reservoir for the power reverse (It's kind of hard to see in the pic). That got mounted just under the cab on the break mans side.

[nkp_174]

Marvelous work. I definitely like the recycling for the power reverse.

Wayne: I think I'll try your method for my Oahu Railway stacks, as the modern engines all straight stacks (except for #111, which is easily addressed through a B-man part).

[e-paw]

Today I started working on the front end of the boiler, witch includes the boiler front and prepping the electrical connection for the headlight.
    In this pic all you see is the two headlight leads sticking out of the boiler weight, I'll show you how I got there.

With the boiler removed you can see that the headlight leads come up from the Minni plug and pass through the boiler weight at the top. I will use the same routing for my wire, but I will have to add a resister in the line for the LED's that I will be using. The only spot with room enough for it is in the firebox.    

I cut the stock head light wires and removed the factory head light. Then I soldered on the resistor that the LED manufacturer recommended to it.    

Next was to solder new wire to the resistor and cover it with some heat shrink tubing.     I then passed the new wire through the same hole in the weight so it stuck out of the front with plenty to spare.     I then taped it down to the motor and frame where it is under the fire box and out of the way.

[e-paw]

Now that that one is finished I did the same to the other one.     As that the wiring is now finished I started on the boiler fronts.    

My new boilers are larger than the old ones so I will need to make new fronts for them. I decided to reuse the smoke box doors from the old boiler fronts and make a larger diameter front from brass.. I started by rough cutting the doors from the plastic casting with a small set of rail nippers.
   

I then cleaned off the rest of the plastic with a file until it was down to the smoke box door. I also thinned the back of the casting down to a thinner profile.
   

With the rough work done I remover the old headlight mount and filled the holes with body putty.    

When it's dry I'll sand it down and start on the rest of the smoke box fronts.