Posts: 60
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Joined: Jun 2009
Thanks guys. I'm happy just to see this thing running again. Granted, it doesn't look a thing like it did when I was a kid, but I know it's the old girl. I was quite pleased with my track work while running this thing full speed forward and backwards through all of my curves and turnouts.
Gus, I haven't noticed anything wrong with my pilot truck at all(knock on wood
).
Dr. Wayne, that's funny you said that! I hadn't realized the damage until watching the video myself. I must have rammed it with my hand while cleaning all the track with an alcohol soaked t shirt.
Corey
Posts: 5,859
Threads: 175
Joined: Dec 2008
secondhandmodeler Wrote:......I hadn't realized the damage until watching the video myself. I must have rammed it with my hand while cleaning all the track with an alcohol soaked t shirt.
I know what you mean: every time I have an alcohol-soaked t-shirt, damage ensues. I suppose the fact that I'm wearing it doesn't help the situation much, either.
Wayne
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,229
Threads: 23
Joined: Dec 2008
Corey,
The easiest thing you can do to improve any video is use a tripod (or a stool and a stack of books, etc.). Anyway, I'm glad to see the old gal run. Sounds like you may need to adjust the gear mesh ever so slightly to reduce the grinding, but otherwise it looks great, especially pulling those fine-looking heavyweights! Super work on the rebuild, and thanks again for sharing your progress. I'm always glad to see a steam restoration thread.
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
Posts: 60
Threads: 4
Joined: Jun 2009
ocalicreek Wrote:Corey,
The easiest thing you can do to improve any video is use a tripod (or a stool and a stack of books, etc.). Anyway, I'm glad to see the old gal run. Sounds like you may need to adjust the gear mesh ever so slightly to reduce the grinding, but otherwise it looks great, especially pulling those fine-looking heavyweights! Super work on the rebuild, and thanks again for sharing your progress. I'm always glad to see a steam restoration thread.
Galen
Galen, I was wondering why it was growling like that. How do I adjust the motor to stop the noise? Does the motor need to be shimmed a tad to relieve some of the pressure? Any help would be apprectiated.
Corey
Posts: 1,229
Threads: 23
Joined: Dec 2008
It is easier and less risky to shim the motor up from behind in order to tighten or close the gap between gears, than it is to file away any material from the motor cradle or frame. I have a replacement motor in my Mantua Shifter from Yardbird Trains, and in order to get it to mesh properly I opted to file a little away from the motor cradle in order to widen the gap between gear teeth.
I'm sure there are good articles on line somewhere (or in print) about motor gear mesh, but essentially you want to find the goldilocks zone - not too loose, nor too tight but just right. Too loose and it may grind and growl. Too tight and it may bind and use too much amperage.
I recommend checking the free-rolling characteristics of the wheels first with the motor removed to make sure they're not binding. Lube as necessary. Then mount the motor, tightening the screw through the frame until it is tight. Now examine the gear mesh. If it is too tight you can loosen the motor, slip a strip of typing paper or at most a business card under the front of the motor mount and retighten the screw. Now check the mesh. Same process for a loose mesh, only put the paper under the rear of the motor mount. Either way you want to be able to retighten the screw so that the motor is secure.
Hope this helps,
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
