Isolating a section of already-ballasted track?

[faraway]

Yes, I know that kind of cutters (german term is "watenfreier Seitenschneider", con not find an English translation). They are great to cut rails prior to installation but not after installation.

The advertising reads "Cutters will leave a smooth cut on the end of rail without any burrs or rounded edges". That is correct that one side is cut very clean but the other side is like cut by an ordinary cutter. It will also extend the length and you get a lot of trouble doing it at an installed track. This drawing is a nice explanation:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/co...c/Wate.png

[RobertInOntario]

Yes, I know that kind of cutters (german term is "watenfreier Seitenschneider", con not find an English translation). They are great to cut rails prior to installation but not after installation.

The advertising reads "Cutters will leave a smooth cut on the end of rail without any burrs or rounded edges". That is correct that one side is cut very clean but the other side is like cut by an ordinary cutter. It will also extend the length and you get a lot of trouble doing it at an installed track. This drawing is a nice explanation:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/co...c/Wate.png

Thanks, Reinhard! So I'll only consider these, then, when building new layouts. Looks like I'll still have to patiently use my Atlas saw or buy a Dremel for my project.

Cheers,

[Steamtrains]

I've often had to cut laid track (only a couple of times already ballasted) using an Atlas saw and a block rail gauge to keep the cut nice and square. After cutting I use a small file to get any burrs off. If your ballast is real stone, I recommend you scrape it off at the cutting point. Rocks and saws don't mix....
I've tried using the Dremel but it really leaves a very "wide" gap that needs to be filled.

The nippers are great for cutting rail to be laid. You get nice accurate cuts, and require almost no dressing with a file.

Patience helps whatever method you choose....

[RobertInOntario]

I've often had to cut laid track (only a couple of times already ballasted) using an Atlas saw and a block rail gauge to keep the cut nice and square. After cutting I use a small file to get any burrs off. If your ballast is real stone, I recommend you scrape it off at the cutting point. Rocks and saws don't mix....
I've tried using the Dremel but it really leaves a very "wide" gap that needs to be filled.

The nippers are great for cutting rail to be laid. You get nice accurate cuts, and require almost no dressing with a file.

Patience helps whatever method you choose....

Thanks -- it's sounding as if the Atlas saw is the most practical method. Don't really want to have to deal with a wide gap as that could cause derailments, especially if it's on a curve.

[teejay]

I've got the orange handled "rail nippers" ...they are made specifically for cutting track with a nice flush cut ...about $15 . Hobby shops should have them or train shows . They would cut in difficult places too .

T

[RobertInOntario]

Thanks Teejay. Would they even work on track that is already laid and ballasted?

[teejay]

I've always cut rail with the top and bottom of the rail in the nipper jaws . Sideways ( in your case ) , I'm not sure if there would be a little distortion .They would definitely cut the rail . It's a tool you should probably have anyhow ...I use it extensively in scratchbuilding to cut off those little ends of styrene or stripwood that arise from time to time , especially on scratchbuilt stairs and railings .

T

[RobertInOntario]

I've always cut rail with the top and bottom of the rail in the nipper jaws . Sideways ( in your case ) , I'm not sure if there would be a little distortion .They would definitely cut the rail . It's a tool you should probably have anyhow ...I use it extensively in scratchbuilding to cut off those little ends of styrene or stripwood that arise from time to time , especially on scratchbuilt stairs and railings .

T

Sounds good. I might see if I can get one then from my LHS this week. As you say, it will at least be useful on other occasions.

[teejay]

Just make sure you get the right ones .....these cut differently than the ones in Reinhard's pics .

   

   

   

You can see that these give a FLUSH CUT which is what you want . A buddy of mine takes ordinary side cutters and grinds them to resemble the above .....still not as good as the real thing .
The nippers have always had reddish orange or orange grips which is the giveaway to picking them out . Some specialty tool stores carry them too but your LHS should have them if they carry trains ....should be under $20 .

T

[RobertInOntario]

Thanks, Teejay. This is helpful. Might try to go to my LHS today.

[faraway]

Just make sure you get the right ones .....these cut differently than the ones in Reinhard's pics .....

Nope, mine has the same function. It is just another brand. The one you show is also available in Germany. It is sold with the very true disclaimer to use it for rails only. But it is sold at moderate price. I got sick of it after I ruined three of them and bought a flush cutter at a higher price (about $60) that sustains wires used for my switch machines too.
The little reds are dangerous beasts. You can get very much used to a flush cutter to cut a lot of things....and kill the red ones soon.

[RobertInOntario]

I just bought a pair of Zuron cutters that my LHS said should work perfectly for the job. I'll text them out on some scrap track first & let you know how they work!

[teejay]

Thanks for that Reinhard , I stand corrected . Like you said , it's easy to ruin the nippers by cutting everything with them ...I sure did . Next time around I bought two pair , one for RAILS ONLY and the other for everything else .
If you remember the ballpark I was working on , we used the nippers for trimming hard-to-get-at areas in the girders .

T

[BR60103]

Rob: you may have to use the cutters twice, once in each direction, to both get a smooth cut on both faces and to have a bit of a gap.
You will probably want to file the running surfaces afterwards, anyway.
Don't use them on anything other than rails or small copper wire. Guitar strings, switch machine rods will notch the blades.

[Steamtrains]

Rob: you may have to use the cutters twice, once in each direction, to both get a smooth cut on both faces and to have a bit of a gap.
You will probably want to file the running surfaces afterwards, anyway.
Don't use them on anything other than rails or small copper wire. Guitar strings, switch machine rods will notch the blades.

So true....I put a couple of knicks on the cutting edges of mine when I cut some thin piano wire for my switch machines.....