CSX GP40-2, GP38-2, B40-8
#1
I have 3 CSX engine projects I'll be working on
GP40-2 #4427
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GP38-2 #2641
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B40-8 #5959
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Here's a list of things I'll be doing to each engine.
The GP40 is an Athearn part# 4411and the road# is 3297
-Sound/DCC
-Front/rear ditch lights
-Weathered
-White roof
-Renumbered to 4427
-Grab irons, lift rings, pilot details (hoses, plow, etc.)
-Amber warning beacon (non operational) on engineers side hood.
-Pockets on rear pilot for extra coupler knuckle.

The GP38 is Walthers Proto part#30771 and the road# is 2749
-Sound/DCC
-Front/rear ditch lights
-Headlight relocated to the nose
-Weathered
-White roof
-Renumbered to 2641
-Amber warning beacon (non operational) on engineers side hood, bell on conductors side hood.
-Pockets on rear pilot for coupler knuckle.

The Dash 8 is an Atlas part# 9008 the road # is 5937
-Sound/DCC
-Front ditch lights only
-Weathered
-White roof
-Renumbered to 5959
-Correct horn
-Pockets on rear pilot for coupler knuckle.

The Atlas and Walthers models don't really need anything done to them as far as details go. I've started the Gp40, I have the grab irons, lift rings and handrails installed. I've never done handrails before so I'm not sure whats the best order to completing them are but I fitted them to the engine then I'll glue them then remove them to paint.
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#2
I got a few parts and drill bits in the mail so I got some pilot details and windshield wipers added, slowly chipping away.
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#3
Lookin' like a great start. Thumbsup Thumbsup
Johnathan (Catt) Edwards
"The Ol Furrball"

"I'm old school,I still believe in respect"
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#4
Thanks Catt, the plow is a little crooked but I can fix that and another detail I just noticed I need to fix once I glue the stanchions to the handrails I'm going to cut off the solid handrail in between the 2 middle stanchions above the pilots and replace it with brass chain. Im still waiting for some parts but I'll post as I go.
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#5
Really haven't completed as much as I would have liked but I switched my attention to the gp38-2 and added hoses, spare coupler pockets and a hood mounted bell.
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#6
Looking good so far!
Stephen 

Modeling a freelanced, present day short line set in Nova Scotia, Canada. 

https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9643
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#7
Looking good! Any plans on weathering or keeping them clean instead?
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#8
Thanks guys, they will get weathered as close to the first 3 photos as possible.
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#9
I fixed the level of the plow and mounted the buffer plates on both ends. Also fixed the chunk I accidentally took out of the rear pilot, once painted and the rear plow mounted I don't think it'll be noticeable. I'm a little concerned that the couplers won't be standard height with these buffer plates but should still work fine. Now I need to figure out a way to mount the coupler gear box to the shell...
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#10
I added the coupler lift bar to the rear pilot and I'm dreding doing the front. The pieces are so small and shot off my tweezers twice I have no idea how I was able to find them and threading them through the wire bar was a challenge. I'm taking a mental break. Now that I look at it I might have mounted it too high and might not fit ditch lights...good thing I bought 2 sets
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#11
I dont know if they still make them but have you looked into the smokey valley handrails for the athearn,they make a world of difference
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#12
I also highly recommend Smokey Valley Handrails. They're not always easy to find these days, but they are worth it. They tend to look as good as, if not better than, the delrin type handrails, while simultaneously being far more resilient than the plastic handrails.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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#13
I actually do have a smokey valley handrail set I can use but never thought to use it. After opening the package and looking at the handrails it make no sense to me and the directions are a crappy photo copy that's cut off on the left margin. I think I'm just going to order a set of the delrin handrails and use the parts from the smokey valley kit to make the front pilot handrails to match the shape of the cannon anti climber I'm going to add.
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#14
Rscott417 Wrote:I actually do have a smokey valley handrail set I can use but never thought to use it. After opening the package and looking at the handrails it make no sense to me and the directions are a crappy photo copy that's cut off on the left margin. I think I'm just going to order a set of the delrin handrails and use the parts from the smokey valley kit to make the front pilot handrails to match the shape of the cannon anti climber I'm going to add.


I think the only thing I didn't like about some smokey Valley Handrail kits, is that they didn't always give you a continuous piece of wire for the longer handrails. Some adjustment was also usually required.

They should be straight forward enough though. If necessary, drill holes into the side-sill to allow the stanchions to be press fit or glued in, and then use little drops of CA to glue the handrail to the top of the stanchion.

This is actually more robust than you might think, and even if it does break, its WAY easier to fix than the delrin ones.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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#15
Green_Elite_Cab Wrote:they didn't always give you a continuous piece of wire for the longer handrails. Some adjustment was also usually required.

Yea that's what threw me off and I don't know which pieces to use to extend the railing the length of the walkway. Some are bent and curved and I just don't want to deal with it. I ordered 2 sets of the delrin ones just incase something goes wrong.
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