CSX GP40-2, GP38-2, B40-8

[Green_Elite_Cab]

they didn't always give you a continuous piece of wire for the longer handrails. Some adjustment was also usually required.

Yea that's what threw me off and I don't know which pieces to use to extend the railing the length of the walkway. Some are bent and curved and I just don't want to deal with it. I ordered 2 sets of the delrin ones just incase something goes wrong.

I just bent new ones, rather than use the provided wire for that same reason.

[Rscott417]

I got the plastic handrails installed and I ordered the Boston & Maine set and the color is pretty close so I won't have to repaint them which is nice. I added an anticlimber and started the handrail stanchions. I removed the cut bars and puddied the holes and I'll install another set a little lower towards the coupler.

[e-paw]

Look'n good.

[Rscott417]

So I've become fed up with this Athearn blue box model and trying to figure out how to mount the couplers to the body and sanding the pilot and sliced my finger pretty good with a hobby knife. After some searching I came across this Athearn model <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATHG40843">http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default ... =ATHG40843</a><!-- m --> It has all the details I wanted to add plus body mounted couplers. I'm going to attempt to re-decal it with the "Conrail Quality" logos and patch it for CSX 4427. I also came across this model <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATHG40830">http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default ... =ATHG40830</a><!-- m --> Again it has all the details I wanted to add like the nose headlight and front ditch lights that won't need to be scratch built. I think these models will be the best options for me and wish I came across them sooner. Hopefully more updates to follow soon.

[Brakie]

So I've become fed up with this Athearn blue box model and trying to figure out how to mount the couplers to the body and sanding the pilot and sliced my finger pretty good with a hobby knife.
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Ouch! Sorry about the slice finger.

Here's my method of body mounting couplers on my older BB locomotives--if memory serves.

I cut the coupler pad off the frame and that will leave the needed gap in the frame and then I Goo a piece of Evergreen solid square plastic shape to the body..After 2 days of allowing the Goo to set I add a KD #5 and it coupler box to the plastic square I will Goo the coupler box on,drill a 2-56 hole,then install the coupler and secure the coupler box lid with a 2-56 self tapping screw.Its not hard to do and the Dremel tool will do the cutting.

Yes,I still like using Walthers Goo since it will hold for decades.

[Rscott417]

I did it the exact way you described Brakie, I used Loc-Tite gel super glue and everything kept falling apart. It didn't seem like a had a lot of space behind the pilot either, I couldnt fit a standard gear box in there I had to cut it at least in half. Maybe I'll give it another try down the road but I'm going to stick with these 2 Athearn models that I came across.

[Brakie]

I did it the exact way you described Brakie, I used Loc-Tite gel super glue and everything kept falling apart. It didn't seem like a had a lot of space behind the pilot either, I couldnt fit a standard gear box in there I had to cut it at least in half. Maybe I'll give it another try down the road but I'm going to stick with these 2 Athearn models that I came across.

I agree..Those Genesis GP40-2s are nicely detailed and very smooth runners.

[Rscott417]

I got the Athearn Conrail GP40-2 in the mail. I didn't realize it came with a signal box so when I removed it there was glue residue left on the paint. so instead of attempting to remove the glue and redecal it to a Conrail Quality scheme I went through CSX's 4400 series GP40's and found one that is the same scheme and still has a signal box and fits my era of interest (2006), problem solved.

[Rscott417]

I removed the Conrail numbers but in the process the GP40-2 and "Select-A-Power" logos were damaged so this will need to be reapplied but this is now a CSX owned GP40-2. Sorry for the lighting.

[Rscott417]

The dash 8 got renumbered to 5959 the atlas decals were very stubborn and took about 30 minutes to remove each side but eventually got them off.

[faraway]

You did it on the Dash 8 very careful. I see no scratches under the new number. Very well done.
I have an Atlas CR GP40-2 too. I am fighting with my self to renumber into a CSX engine for use on a more contemporary layout or save it for a CR scenario. I will postpone that decision .......

[Rscott417]

Thanks Reinhard, I used Micro Sol soaked the number for about 10 minutes reapplying it as it evaporated. I tried the scotch tape method and it didn't really work. I rubbed the Micro Sol on the numbers with a Q-tip and it eventually losened up and came off.

[Rscott417]

Does anyone know how I would go about making this hood mounted warning beacon? Part numbers or styrene I would need? (Non-operational)

[Rscott417]

Renumbered the last engine plus added a few extra decals and spare knuckles on the rear pilot. (Still need to do all the number boards)

[faraway]

.... spare coupler pockets .....
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....

Can you help me to find the correct parts for the knuckle and the pockets.

I find at Walthers
knuckle:
from Details West 235-196 Coupler Knuckle Brackets -- Spare pkg(2), is that the right one?
but nothing for the pockets.
What parts did you use?

ps. I am expecting Athearn RTR CSX GP40-2 in boxcar design to arrive shortly and plan to add some details.