I am looking for a copy of the August 2001 Mainline Modeler magazine. If anyone has a copy they wish to part with let me know.

I would also be interested in a scan of an article from the above issue. The article is about building EMD hood sides using Cannon & Company parts.

WR

I've had this spot on my layout that was in need of a structure for some time now:

It's tucked quite a ways back (about 4 feet) from the front.

And I've had this DPM kit stuck in my inventory for awhile as well:

the only problem is that the kit has three dock doors on one side, and one dock door and a roll-up garage door on the other side. That and the structure is a bit long so I might have to cut the one-storey part off to make it fit a bit better. Here's a few options for fitting it in the space allowed:





I'd rather it be positioned with the one dock door and the garage door facing the front of the layout, probably with the one storey removed. I guess this is the problem when you have most of your buildings down and you have to fit the rest for the real-estate remaining.

Last year in the Fall I started the new downsized layout, the previous layout was too big and overwhelming. I hope to do some nice scenery with lots of bridges and a couple of water scenes. Most of my old rather large structures were given away locally as I found they just weren't doing the old layout any justice and so I will be spending the next probably couple years building new smaller structures.
So to start this is the track plan, and upto date construction, I just did a session with the backdrop painting


A few pics of the backdrop painting around the layout

This is NTSB footage of a BNSF collision caused by a bad axle from Dec 30 2013, in North Dakota.

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Started in Jan. 2017 I hope to finish this project soon.

A scartchbuilt GM&O #1900, the prototype made by Ingalls (one produced ever)

My typical start as a Frankenstein (combining a FA with a monitor roof and some PS-pads)



a little bit later





Once again many sanding sessions followed





Some more details & grilles applied (and down in the basement late in the evening - causing poor conditions for taking pictures...sorry)







A picture of the prototype

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/e...ls_4-S.jpg

Regards
Norman

After almost a year I picked up my PPU #200 again.

Due to its ugly start and the tedious job of several loops of laminating and sanding I lost my motivation for a few months

The rough basic sub-assamble of the shell



Well, back in December 2016 I continued with the project





Currently I'm painting tthe unit - trying to get slightly different shades of black for the frame and the shell.

A picture of the prototype (only one produced ever):

http://donsdepot.donrossgroup.net/dr0702/ppu200.jpg

Regards
Norman

YPMA-02 drops a mechanical reefer loaded with hops at the Flying Fish Brewery.

Bruce

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Hello,

here i will describe what i am doing to modernize this old steamer. Long ago in the 1960's Rivarossi made them for AHM according to prototypes of the famous Virginia & Truckee. These 4-4-0s were then owned by some silver screen companies and well known movie stars.
But in the 1960's made their own type of motor in terms of today relavtively huge and rough running. To get this motor into the tiny 4-4-0 they made 2 bugs to make it possible. First the motor was placed into the tender and second the overall scale was larger than 1:87.


Some years ago this loco came into my posession and because i knew about the bugs i had very little notice about it. Additional there were the tiny wheel of pilot and tender with very deep flanges to made the things more worse.
But because this loco was in the livery of the AT&SF, i paid some attention to it when i became an Santa Fe fan. First try to make something out of this loco was the replacement of the rough Rivarossi motor by an cheap Mabuchi can motor. Therefor the driveshaft to the loco has to be stretched which was don by an piece of white plastic tube. The loco was then running much better, but still not the real McCoy. Main reason was the unreliable current pick up. Optical there were the tiny wheels and the sort of pendulous abdomen below the tender to get the Rivarossi motor into.

I made some comparison with real AT&SF 4-4-0s:
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O.k. here we are, for a scale model of one of the V&T's relative small 4-4-0s the AHM/Rivarossi model is defintive too large. But for an modell of one of AT&SF's later 4-4-0's it will pretty good match. Not 110%, but a good stand-in. So i decided to do something with the old loco.





Here i fitted 33' wheels into one of the tender trucks. Right the old wheels for comparison, more flanges than wheel.





Fist task was to remove the old drivetrain completely. There is an sheet metal plte onto the tender botton wich keep the thread of the truck monting screws. Also this device was former a motor bracket, i bend the brackets from vertical to horizontal because they were no more need for them.





Loco and tender running gear in an intermediate status for testing.





Here too the old drivetrain was completely removed. I purchhased an Mashima motor of suitable size and placed it as shown. As an relative light part the motor was placed above the pilot truck. The axle gear of the first pair of drivers were relaced by an Roco gear wheel with 24 teeth. The worm was direct onto the motor shaft and the gab between was bridged by an idler. The idler was beared loose on a short 2.5mm axle and theis axle was beared into bores drilled into the two pieces of 1.5mm styrene sheet. The two styrene peices were cut in seize so in that manner, they will pinched into the part of the chassis. Thus enabeling to adjust the correct meshing of the gears. Test running helps a lot, noise is a good indicator for incorrect mesh. So when the corect mesh is adjusted through the backdoor, the two styrene sheets were fixed by glueing with CA. But be careful not to glue the idler wheel. All gears were from Roco and out of my grab box.
This was quick and dirty making loco gears.
Of course there more scientific and more techinical and craftmanshipical methods to do that, but it runs.





The loco was then makeshift wired, assembled an analogue test runnings were made again. Note the replaced pilot wheels, the 33' wheels and the disappearing of the tender abdomen improving the impression of the model too. The flanges of the drivers were turned down to meet NMRA Standards.

Cheers Lutz

This is a hanger on project I've been working on for over a year now. I know I'm joining the challenge late but, hopefully it will be the push I need to get it back on the rails again. It is a Bowser H-9. At one time it was the first Bowser kit I ever bought some 30 years ago. I finally got in running about 5 years ago, but it met an unfortunate incident at my club's layout when it ended up on the floor, falling approximately 4 feet destroying the boiler and many of the detail pieces shot off all over the place. So, pretty much this is a total rebuild. The picture shown is with a new boiler I was able to turn up and some detail parts I've already added. The original H-9 had a brass frame, but I opted for a zamac frame on the rebuild because I discovered with a Bowser PRR L-1 build (actually I built 3) that the mikados with a solid frame ran a little quieter then with the open brass frame. Originally, the H-9 kit came with the typical DC-71 motor that I swapped out for a Helix Humper motor. With the new frame I installed a NWSL gearbox and motor.

Basically it a water sprayer for coal trains.The purpose is to keep down the Coal dust.
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