A Fairbanks & Morse Reading Trainmaster (Atlas Master Locomotive Series) leads a coal drag through Leiperville Union Station and over the new bridge.

Well, here we go again, I just can't get enough of these wooden puzzle pieces. They call them puzzles, but they're really models with a lot if specific instructions to follow. A puzzle would be, "here's 368 pieces of wood, you figure out how to put it together". Never could happen, so I'm glad that the instructions are accurate, and the end result is as intended as long as you don't miss a step. This one has 30 steps, with many sub-steps as you can see from this instruction sheet #1, I figure around 15 to 20 hours to complete.

   
   

To start things off here are B&O F7A and F7B (Walthers Proto) pulling a mixed freight over the newly installed bridge.



I am currently using this as test train for the bridges. If all goes well I will be turning it into a run by.

Hi everyone
    
     I am in need of 1 geared axle for an Atlas 8000 series S1. The part has not been available from Atlas for a number of years and the cost of NWSL gears (if they have them) are more than I can spend on a new locomotive.  The S1 I have was new old stock and had 2 bad gears. The one was still available.  It's a shame the manufactures don't keep parts for these models because most of us have locomotives over 20 years old and these axle gears seem to be a problem for a lot of different models.  I have replaced at least 60 axle gears on Athearn and proto locomotives and even had to replace some on BLI steam locomotives. 
      The part is 807301 and there is nothing else that I have found that will work.     

Charlie

Hello,

here i will sum up my my experiences with modern US models or locomotives and cars in loose order. This was also my last willful big hunt for rolling stock. Because now i have more then enough cars and locos for my demand. Occasions not exemted. Now i can play my layout in:
- Classic steam era 1920's - 1930's
- Transiton era 1940's - 1960's
- Medival era 1970's - 1980's - 1990's
- Modern era 2000's up
Conditioned by my membership in FREMO and the Southwest Division (SWD). For this my layout is modular and portable. On conventions it will be a industrial area with some hevy traffic. We run our meetings and conventions in different eras, Antik (antique), Mittelalter (medival) and Modern. For each of the eras you have to provide your own rolling stock for your part of the big layout made of modules.


Sometimes at evilbay you randomly find occasions. Randomly because the evilbay search engines are still deadbeat; a systematic search is not possible.
So this high cube box car from Walthers, a second hand offer for a reasonable price "buy immediately". Which i did. It was in mint condition.


As with Walthers Gold Line you have to mount the grab irons by yourself. Naturally this car also was equipped by me with a 3-point equalisation. Also i painted the shining wheels black. Kadee Scale Head whiskers #158 were mounted too.


But the brake was only rudimentary. Only brake cylinder, air reservoir and triple valve were there. No pipes and no rods. The model in the background was my pattern to rig the brake system.


The underframe was separated. The two white pieces of plastic profile are part of my 3-point suspension.


The eyelet of the brake cylinder rod was drilled out. 0.3mm bronze wire will be used for rigging.


Then started rigging.

For those members which are not so familar with brakes, Ted Culotta's tutorial is still the best: http://www.steamerafreightcars.com/model...smain.html


A closer look. With modern cars the brake rigging deviates in some points from those out of the steam era.
So some levers are not horizontal, but instead vertical mounted. This structure made out of black plastic stripes is such an bearing for a vertical brake lever.


And another one. The little chain is the conncetion between brake cylinder and hand brake.


The remounted underframe with completed brake rigging.


Check. This will be visible when the car is on the track.


And at least Darth Brush has striked.

Lutz

I am in search of an HOn3 two-truck Shay. If you happen to have one wearing a hole in the drawer, I may be your guy. Be real nice if it were running and all there. ??

So as you all have heard me mention in spots, I have recently moved though I’m still waiting on all of our belongings to arrive at the new place. Notably the old place did not really have any way for me to realistically do air brushing, but the new place does! The downside is that it has to be outside/in the garage, but it certainly opens up new options for me.

I bought the Model Railroader beginners guide to model painting book which had a lot of helpful advise on brush painting as well as airbrushing. I was hoping that maybe the kind folk here might be willing to show how they have things set up, recommend a brush, and answer a couple questions I have.

As far as my questions go, here they are:
1) I need some sort of spray booth type station. Something that can catch overspray and some means of holding the model. Any suggestions on how to set something like that up?
2) What is the difference between the “airbrush ready” paints like Vallejo Model Air and normal paints? Do you have any paint recommendations for paints currently in production?
3) Are there any issues I should be aware of when painting outside? Does it need to be especially warm out or just not freezing?

I appreciate the help.

So I have been really struggling with the pin vises I have to get them to work reliably. I’m certain a portion of this is user error but I’ve bought two now and can’t seem to get either to reliably hold on to drill bits. I have one that I bought from Kadee that has four collet sizes and all of the sizes are either too big or too small, and another I bought from micro mark with a spring that just doesn’t seem to want to hold anything bigger than the ten or so smallest bits in my bit set (a 60-90 set). I can just forget holding bigger bits or taps in it, too.

So… What pin vise do you use? Do you have any advise for setting one up?

For anyone interested, "The MDC Shay Handbook" has been re-released by Jeff Johnston and is for sale on his website for $29.
The old version is still available for $150  or so, depending where you look. Guess I'll get one, since I have questions...
Its reportedly a necessity if attempting that kit build.

Hello to all from Memphis! I'm looking at this on Ebay: 
HO/HOn3 ROUNDHOUSE 2 TRUCK SHAY KIT WITH STRAIGHT BOILER WOOD CAB WISEMAN MODELS. 
Has anyone attempted this kit? Maybe there are Youtubes regarding it. Just looking for opinions on feasability. 
I'm wanting to do HON3, not sure about the track/code yetAnd, is it doable to install DCC/Sound in this with an appropriate decoder?
And, is it doable to install DCC/Sound in this with an appropriate decoder?
I guess I'm really asking six questions, have not even researched it, just looking for ideas! 

Someone tell me I'm crazy...
Thanks!
Cid