Baldwin 1922 2-4-2.........an HO kit/scratch/bash

[tetters]

i think this is more of a dinky for Pete add a lead truck and walla a 2-4-2

That is friggin cool! I love it!

[Sumpter250]

Well, the "kluge" didn't work. sooooo, while I try to figure out a "plan B", I've been getting some things done on the new module set.

[jim currie]

Pete is there room in the boiler casting to mill it out for a small can motor ? if so you could mount it in there and use a 1/1 gear mesh to the input shaft on the driver gear box.
jim

[Sumpter250]

Pete is there room in the boiler casting to mill it out for a small can motor ? if so you could mount it in there and use a 1/1 gear mesh to the input shaft on the driver gear box.
jim

Jim, that's an option that is possible, but I'm leaning towards a motor in the tender, with a universal drive coupling to the driver gearbox, so I can add weight to the engine, for better electrical contact, as well as pulling ability. In either case, there will be some modifications that will have to be made.
The "kluge" didn't work because the can motor was too small, and alignment with the gearbox wasn't "perfect".
.......I'm working on it. I'd like to have this loco running on the new modules, at the National Train Show in Milwaukee, next year.

[jim currie]

Pete a idea just hit me . was wondering if a tender drive system from a old Tyco royal blue would fit into your tender ?
jim

[doctorwayne]

I think that the plan is for the motor to be mounted in the tender, but the actual drive kept in the loco itself. Power would be transmitted through a driveshaft with universal couplings.

Wayne

[jim currie]

I tried that once and had a problem with the tender rocking when loco was pulling hard thats why i suggested the tender drive , I changed the problem one to that and it worked ok for me .
jim

[doctorwayne]

The motor's torque will tend to tip the tender either left or right, depending on the direction the armature is turning. I remotored a couple of brass CPR D-10s (Ten Wheelers) for a friend, placing a fairly large can motor in the tender of each. To eliminate the tilting, I cemented bearing blocks, made from a trimmed-down stack of Kadee #5 draught gear box covers, to the underside of the tender's frame, above each truck.
To accomplish the drive, I left the frame of the original open-frame motor in place, with the armature replaced by a straight shaft with the original worm on its lower end. The upper end extended beyond the rear of the motor frame, and was coupled to the new motor's shaft with a U-joint. After adding some extra weight to the boiler area, the pair were a smooth-running combination that pulled extremely well for their diminutive size.

Wayne

[Sumpter250]

I will typically run the drive shaft under the cab floor, with bearings in the frame, and a universal cup on the end. The motor in the tender, also has a universal cup on the shaft. The shaft piece between, has a universal ball at both ends. If there's any room left in the tender, it gets filled with weight for stability, and better electrical contact. Guess I'll have to document the one that goes into the "Columbia", with pictures.
I'll also have to give the tender truck "bearing blocks" a go.....these things are prototype, in all freight and passenger cars, and are more often than not simulated in truck castings.
I did find pics of the Gem 2-4-4-2 conversion:    
   
Maybe not the best, but it does show some detail.

[Sumpter250]

This project"s completion is ( Edit: will be ) documented here:
http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic...=37&t=3634