Thought I'd share some info on this.
All the reviews I found on line were for the DCC equipped model, which looks to operate very nicely.
I wasn't sure whether it would operate alright on DC, couldn't find any specific info on that.
My layout is DC, and I'm just not ready to convert my locos to DCC just yet.

Saw this DC version at Pacific Rim Hobbies in Port Angeles WA, and got to test one. I ended up buying it. I also tested a Trackmobile model, but it only had one end with an operating coupler. Physically, the ML8 is a nice little model. As a tiny switcher, it will most likely be used at slow speed moving only a couple cars. The DCC videos look great, but what about DC?

Some observations on the DC version:
This model prefers clean track.
I use Code 83 atlas snap track and snap switches. There are some pickup issues in switches between points and frog. The demo track I tested at the shop was wired for both DC and DCC; it had feeder wires soldered to every rail joiner. I suspect my performance would improve with more consistent power in the moveable points. Also the short wheelbase allows for it sometimes not riding straight along the rails. The little critter can be rotated slightly when setting on straight track. This can affect electrical pickup.

I've run it a bit over an hour total in break in mode on my own layout.
Following that, here are the timed performances as follows:

7 volts: 18.6 mph (scale)
6 volts: 16.3 mph --runs ok thru snap switches
5 volts: 12.8 mph --usually runs ok thru snap switches
4 volts: 7.8 mph --some stalls in 11 trials, usually ok if going thru the straight part
3.75 V: 6.0 mph --some stuttering on straight track; stalled 2 out of 6 runs, between points and frogs.

Speed was estimated by stop watch over 35 inches, with turnouts at each end.
Calcs based on multiple runs, using this formula from a Bachmann forum:
Scale MPH = ((L x F/12)/5280) x 3600/T; where
L is length of travel in inches
F is scale factor (e.g. 87.1)
T is time in seconds

If I knew the DCC model one could be run on DC ok, I probably would have gotten the DCC one if only for the keep-alive capacitor. But I do like the loco, I'll just have to nurse it through switches with a little more power. It's a very attractive little thing. Actually, amazingly tiny next to regular rolling stock.

Hope this is useful.

Got my Tsunami 2 for the Gensets. A CSX Genset with dynamic breaks was the first one for conversion.

IMG_5913 by Reinhard Peters, on Flickr
IMG_5913 by Reinhard Peters, on Flickr

The tiny ditch light PCBs need some modification. Cut the printed wire from the black wire to the outer end of the LED and prepare it to be individually soldered. Next trill a hole next to the black wire hole and run a new wire through it and solder it on the prepared printed wire. The new wire shall be routed together with the old black wire to the decoder. Cover all up with tape. It must not touch the engine parts.
(This has been described some time ago in the internet but I could not find it and had to reinvent it for me).

IMG_5913 by Reinhard Peters, on Flickr
IMG_5913 by Reinhard Peters, on Flickr

The Tsunami fits but the mounting holes do not fit. I do not like to mount the soldering ends over the weights but shortened the weights and mounted the decoder with double side sticky tape on top of the motor. That mounting method placed the decoder quite low and you get plenty of space for six 1k5 resistors protecting all LEDs.

IMG_5913 by Reinhard Peters, on Flickr
IMG_5913 by Reinhard Peters, on Flickr

ps. My version of decoder pro does not handle the value of 11 in CV 123 for the motor selection correct. It falls back to 3. I had to set CV 123 manually to 11 to get the Genset sound. The startup sound is unique. I would see a garage when my car starts with that sound :o

Happy New Years to you all. An exciting year coming up I hope, lots of time to do what you want, especially with your layouts or other train things.

What are your plans for New Years Eve? Gunna go out partying, wining and dining? Go to a movie, run trains with friends, watch the ball drop on TV or just stay home?

Us, we'll probably go out for an early dinner and maybe catch a movie. But we'll be home and fast asleep before midnight. Well, asleep depending on how may neighbors decide to celebrate with fireworks. They sell them all over town, just that they're illegal to fire off in the city limits. Lots of folks don't care, they set them off around midnight anyway....

Mannheim Yard Job sets out a tank car of liquid caustic soda on the supply track at the Flying Fish Brewery. Then it makes a pick up of loaded insulated box
cars on the keg track.

Bruce

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So I am getting started working on a modern proto-freelance layout based very loosely on Model Railroader's 2010 Beer Line Layout, and I was trying to figure out two things:
1) What would be the appropriate modern boxcar specifically for moving beer loads? I am guessing insulated boxcars would be best, but I wasn't sure if that would be correct or not?
2) What size are the most common modern boxcars? 50' or 60'?

Cheers, thanks.

From Peggy and me, to all our friends on Big Blue:

   

It's 6:45AM and right on time the eastbound CNR Continental pulls into the station at Leetown .While passengers are enjoying a leisurely breakfast in the dining car it's all business on the head end .Leetown is an important transfer location where locomotives and crews are changed and today U1A 6043 will take over for U1F 6060.Later in the day the same operation will take place with the westbound Continental which usually has U2G Northerns as the power.Needless to say the yard is usually full of rail-fanners catching this daily ritual.

I scratchbuilt this reefer after some drawings I found online. It's almost finished...
At the point of getting the paint and decals on. B)
I don't know how exact it matches the real deal in color and details, but I'm quite satisfied with it.
I found some Grandt line trucks that I'm using on this one.






Now some very light weathering and installing the couplers.