Well, here we are again, these are really interesting, challenging and fun, and I know I'm hooked. I may have to see a shrink to shed my addiction. So, I have one more of these wooden "puzzles", (or really, models). This one is a trolley car that has a spring-wound drive motor. It also has tracks, and a catenary system with overhead (wooden) wires for use as a static display. I already have the steam engine on a floating shelf I built next to my rolling stock display case, and so that's my plan, to build another shelf for the trolley.

This one has some 370 parts, but will take more time because of the drive engine and the fact that parts used aren't in sequence. In some kits, you use parts from sheet A before you go to sheet B, but this one starts off with parts from sheet H, then E, then G, and so on, mainly because each sheet is a different thickness plus assembly starts off with the gear train. Learning from the steam loco built, I will double and triple check the gears as they are installed. One loose gear or broken shaft negates all efforts to run this thing.

Anyway, this is what I'm trying to build, and the instructions are in a book rather than a large sheet. There are only 10 steps to building this, but.... I counted over 170 sub-steps, so I'm thinking 20 or 25 hours to build just as long as there are no real issues.


The objective:
   

The instructions:
   

The parts:
   

I've completed five of these wooden puzzles or models and I can't help but learned a few things as I go along. The first one, the steam locomotive, was suppose to run, but didn't. If I was to build it today, it might run because of what I've learned doing the ones that I've done. I've read quite a few of the star comments on Amazon describing mostly the problems folks have putting these together. So if you think you'd like to try to do one of these (be careful, you can get hooked), just a bit of advice to save the heartaches that have caused some people to give up quickly.

I think you could put these together without using tools, but without them, it can get frustrating. All parts are laser cut, but some are difficult just taking them off the sheets others can break if you use force to get the tabs into the slots. Here's what I use in all facets of building these.

   

Two types of small pliers to grab parts either off the sheets or to snap into place. The hammer can drive a stubborn part home without excessive force or twisting a part and breaking it. The kits come with a screwdriver if there are screws and they also include a file and/or a piece of sandpaper to clean up parts. I have a set of small files that I use instead. I also use the pliers and channel locks to squeeze parts together when I can't use the hammer. The instructions also say, "no glue required", but at times that's the only way two parts will stay together. BTW, all these kits have spare parts for some that are very small or tend to break easily. They also say that you can get free replacement parts by contacting them.

The instructions are normally very concise and accurate. There are major steps with many sub-steps and when I finish a step, I go back and make sure I didn't miss anything and then put a check-mark next to each sub-step. It doesn't take talent as much as patience, most folks that give up seem to be a bit short-tempered and trash the kit after just a few minutes of trying. I've also mentioned that some parts are suppose to be bent, and spraying them with water helps keep them from breaking.

Those are just a few pointers, many kits are in the $20US range and are sold all over the world, some are a bit more expensive if they have mechanical or electronic part, like the pinball machine does.

A Fairbanks & Morse Reading Trainmaster (Atlas Master Locomotive Series) leads a coal drag through Leiperville Union Station and over the new bridge.

Well, here we go again, I just can't get enough of these wooden puzzle pieces. They call them puzzles, but they're really models with a lot if specific instructions to follow. A puzzle would be, "here's 368 pieces of wood, you figure out how to put it together". Never could happen, so I'm glad that the instructions are accurate, and the end result is as intended as long as you don't miss a step. This one has 30 steps, with many sub-steps as you can see from this instruction sheet #1, I figure around 15 to 20 hours to complete.

   
   

To start things off here are B&O F7A and F7B (Walthers Proto) pulling a mixed freight over the newly installed bridge.



I am currently using this as test train for the bridges. If all goes well I will be turning it into a run by.

Hi everyone
    
     I am in need of 1 geared axle for an Atlas 8000 series S1. The part has not been available from Atlas for a number of years and the cost of NWSL gears (if they have them) are more than I can spend on a new locomotive.  The S1 I have was new old stock and had 2 bad gears. The one was still available.  It's a shame the manufactures don't keep parts for these models because most of us have locomotives over 20 years old and these axle gears seem to be a problem for a lot of different models.  I have replaced at least 60 axle gears on Athearn and proto locomotives and even had to replace some on BLI steam locomotives. 
      The part is 807301 and there is nothing else that I have found that will work.     

Charlie

Hello,

here i will sum up my my experiences with modern US models or locomotives and cars in loose order. This was also my last willful big hunt for rolling stock. Because now i have more then enough cars and locos for my demand. Occasions not exemted. Now i can play my layout in:
- Classic steam era 1920's - 1930's
- Transiton era 1940's - 1960's
- Medival era 1970's - 1980's - 1990's
- Modern era 2000's up
Conditioned by my membership in FREMO and the Southwest Division (SWD). For this my layout is modular and portable. On conventions it will be a industrial area with some hevy traffic. We run our meetings and conventions in different eras, Antik (antique), Mittelalter (medival) and Modern. For each of the eras you have to provide your own rolling stock for your part of the big layout made of modules.


Sometimes at evilbay you randomly find occasions. Randomly because the evilbay search engines are still deadbeat; a systematic search is not possible.
So this high cube box car from Walthers, a second hand offer for a reasonable price "buy immediately". Which i did. It was in mint condition.


As with Walthers Gold Line you have to mount the grab irons by yourself. Naturally this car also was equipped by me with a 3-point equalisation. Also i painted the shining wheels black. Kadee Scale Head whiskers #158 were mounted too.


But the brake was only rudimentary. Only brake cylinder, air reservoir and triple valve were there. No pipes and no rods. The model in the background was my pattern to rig the brake system.


The underframe was separated. The two white pieces of plastic profile are part of my 3-point suspension.


The eyelet of the brake cylinder rod was drilled out. 0.3mm bronze wire will be used for rigging.


Then started rigging.

For those members which are not so familar with brakes, Ted Culotta's tutorial is still the best: http://www.steamerafreightcars.com/model...smain.html


A closer look. With modern cars the brake rigging deviates in some points from those out of the steam era.
So some levers are not horizontal, but instead vertical mounted. This structure made out of black plastic stripes is such an bearing for a vertical brake lever.


And another one. The little chain is the conncetion between brake cylinder and hand brake.


The remounted underframe with completed brake rigging.


Check. This will be visible when the car is on the track.


And at least Darth Brush has striked.

Lutz

I am in search of an HOn3 two-truck Shay. If you happen to have one wearing a hole in the drawer, I may be your guy. Be real nice if it were running and all there. ??

So as you all have heard me mention in spots, I have recently moved though I’m still waiting on all of our belongings to arrive at the new place. Notably the old place did not really have any way for me to realistically do air brushing, but the new place does! The downside is that it has to be outside/in the garage, but it certainly opens up new options for me.

I bought the Model Railroader beginners guide to model painting book which had a lot of helpful advise on brush painting as well as airbrushing. I was hoping that maybe the kind folk here might be willing to show how they have things set up, recommend a brush, and answer a couple questions I have.

As far as my questions go, here they are:
1) I need some sort of spray booth type station. Something that can catch overspray and some means of holding the model. Any suggestions on how to set something like that up?
2) What is the difference between the “airbrush ready” paints like Vallejo Model Air and normal paints? Do you have any paint recommendations for paints currently in production?
3) Are there any issues I should be aware of when painting outside? Does it need to be especially warm out or just not freezing?

I appreciate the help.

So I have been really struggling with the pin vises I have to get them to work reliably. I’m certain a portion of this is user error but I’ve bought two now and can’t seem to get either to reliably hold on to drill bits. I have one that I bought from Kadee that has four collet sizes and all of the sizes are either too big or too small, and another I bought from micro mark with a spring that just doesn’t seem to want to hold anything bigger than the ten or so smallest bits in my bit set (a 60-90 set). I can just forget holding bigger bits or taps in it, too.

So… What pin vise do you use? Do you have any advise for setting one up?