WPMA-29 sets out a hopper of plastic pellets for Harbor Rope.

Bruce

   

I have made the plunge into DCC finally. I am using NCE. My daughter got me the NCE Power Cab Starter Set for Christmas a couple of years ago. I have set it up and have been using it comfortably for a while now. I have even begun some basic programing such as assigning addresses to specific locomotives and will be trying to create a consist.

Since I have a large number of DC locos the layout is wired for both. I still have a lot of wiring to do. Currently only half the track is wired using drops and the layout is sectioned into two blocks. I do have a surge protector between the track and the cab/transformers. I have a toggle which controls whether the layout is in DCC or DC mode.

Now for the true purpose of my post. I am ready to start converting my DC locos over to DCC. I am going to start with the DCC ready ones first. I need to work on my soldering skills before I try the others. I have an assortment of Walthers Proto, Proto 2000, Atlas Silver, Bowser, Athearn, and Bachmann. I have searched for mobile decoders. At this time, I am not interested in sound. To my dismay I have seen a gazillion different types of decoders to choose from. As a matter of fact there are so many I am overwhelmed to the point of indecision. I was pleasantly surprised, however, that the costs of many decoders is not outrageous as I had feared.

My question or request is what decoders should I consider using in these DCC ready models?

I just came across this forum that has been hidden since we changed software. I even had to change the heading from "The Gauge" to "Big Blue". Shows you just how much we pay attention to these things.  No wonder we never get any complaints....

A question, I have an HO Athearn piggy-back trailer kit that I will put up for auction or sell direct if it's worth doing. The kit dates back to the 70's and appears complete. There is usually two in a box, but this one has one plus a few extra wheels and the instruction sheet. If there is any interest I will offer it up at auction, otherwise I'll accept a reasonable offer. So my question, is there enough interest to make it worth the effort to auction it? It's marked, "The Milwaukee Road" and I'll post photos when needed.

Let me know what's best, auction, sell direct or junk it 'cause it's not my scale... Remember, all proceeds go to sustain Big Blue

We are offering a copy of the Car Builders Dictionary, 1879 and republished in 1971. The book measures 8' X 5"X 1.75" and is in fair condition for it's age. The book is being donated by our member, FiaFan, and  will be shipped from his address. The donor of this book has generously offered to pay shipping charges on this item, so consider that when you make your bid. We will limit that to the Contiguous US and Canada though.

Now, let’s get started. We are offering this over 50-year old book to the highest bidder. Here are the bidding rules:

1. There is no minimum bid and no reserve, the highest bidder at the time the auction closes will get the book.
   
   
2. Please keep you bid raises in increments of at least fifty cents and preferably a dollar or more. 
   
   
3. You can bid publicly by posting it in this thread. This thread is for bidding only; any comments or questions should be made in this "questions" thread or  by PM to either ezdays or ngauger. Non-bid posts will be deleted from this thread.
   
   
4. If you want to enter an anonymous bid (just like the rich and famous do), you can PM either ezdays or ngauger and we will bid on your behalf, (we will post the bid amount, but keep your name confidential, just like at those big auction houses). You may also want to give us the maximum you would want to go and we’ll bid for you by adding fifty cents above the last bid, up the maximum that you have set, again, just like Christie’s does for the big boys.
   
   
5. The auction will run until midnight, EST, February 25th, at which time we will announce the winner and ship the book to them.
   
   
6. The successful bidder will pay all shipping costs. It will be shipping from the US via USPS mail or UPS if cheaper.
   
   
7. Payment can be by PayPal, check or MO. We will give the winner instructions on how and where to pay.
   
   

A Conrail manifest freight drifting downgrade circa early fall, 1977    
Charlie

I was just looking though the email sent to me by Model Railroader and noticed that there was an HO engine that they were taking orders for. This one you needed to place your order by 3-29-23, and expect the engine sometime in the spring of 2024. That means they aren't even tooled up for manufacturing and may not if they don't get enough pre-orders. There is no other industry that I know that does this. Some industries, like custom furniture will make you something to order, but to show you a manufactured product that doesn't exist in hopes that they can sell enough up front to justify manufacturing them, or they just cancel all the orders.

There is no risk to the manufacturer and I think that is an absurd way to do business. "Oh boy, I really like the pictures of that Boffo II pickup truck, can I see one?". The automobile sales guy, "well, we're taking pre-orders and Ford says that if we sell enough they will start tooling up so you have have yours in about two years, will that be cash or credit?".

How effective is this? How many of you actually do pre-order and wait a year for delivery? Is that engine or car that unique that it's worth paying for it a year in advance? I'm not saying that it's wrong, but I'm at the age that if I see something I want, than I want it now, and sometimes even a back order on an existing product is unacceptable.

YPMA-02 performing switching duties at Mannheim Yard.

Bruce

   

The EBT has fired up #16 and it is going back in service.     
Charlie

Please use this thread should you have any questions regarding any of our auctions. They will be answered as quickly as we can.

Use the specific auction thread to place your bids on that item.