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  Passenger car lettering sources
Posted by: nkp_174 - 02-17-2009, 02:49 PM - Forum: HO Modeling - Replies (2)

My Champ decals arrived today. I'm disappointed in the passenger car details.

My order:
-2 packs of NKP steam locomotive lettering
-2 packs of NKP caboose letter, the High Speed Service version in their catalog is actually the steel 400 series cars of the 1950s...of minimal use to me...the plain white & black lettering version is what I thought the High Speed Service version to be...appropriate for the fleet of hundreds of wooden cars...and should work fine for me in the pre-High Speed Service years by leaving off that portion of the lettering.
-NKP Dulux gold passenger car lettering...for coaches
-NKP aluminum lettering...apparently they didn't plan on anyone using them to letter sleepers or Lounge cars...which was my reason for purchasing them... Curse I might have to get custom decals printed for the car names...unless their are blue decal sheets out there...
- And a my primary reason for ordering was a set of Signature Series 1938 20th Century Limited decals. It only included the lettering details...none of the complicated striping!

For those whom don't know, the 1938 20th Cent Ltd was a very complex paint scheme. Aluminum stripes were at the top & bottom of each car (3/4" thick IIRC). Above and below the windows was painted light gray. The windows were particularly complicated. The series of stripes were at the window level. The car was dark gray at the windows, with 3.75" thick (iirc) aluminum stripes near the center, and had 2" (?) blue lines as borders above and below the windows. The following year, it was switched to a simplified scheme with the 3.75" lines becoming .75" lines and the blue lines became aluminum. The lines at the top and bottom of each car were dropped in 1940 or so. The more modeled paint scheme is the 1948 version with the grays reversed and simplified line work. Only a few cars served on both centuries.

Any ideas on sources to supplement the decals with aluminum & blue striping, or am I stuck using masking tape?

Any ideas on a source of blue letter transfers for HO cars? I suspect that Woodland Scenics Dulux Gold transfers will suffice for my future heavyweight fleet.

EDIT: as a happy note, the 20th Cent Ltd decals included non-'38 cars...such as the 1939 Commodore Vanderbilt Bedroom-Buffet-Lounge car Chittenango Falls which will be serving of my layout...my single favorite car of all time.

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  Woodland Scenics Road Sytem - Using Smooth-It
Posted by: Trucklover - 02-17-2009, 02:16 PM - Forum: Tips and Tricks - Replies (9)

Hi guys, here is the tutorial i have been saying i would be doing for the past few months lol

Ive had several people ask me how i did my roads and crossings from this picture:

[Image: SL371280.jpg]

Well this tutorial will not include any pictures of doing a crossing, but after i finish this post on doing regular roads, i will do another post in this thread explaining how i did my crossing in the picture above with Woodland Scenics Smooth-It.

Before i begin, id like to not that
USING WOODLAND SCENICS SMOOTH-IT TAKES PATIENTS!
Please don't hold me responsible for your roads not turning out the way you would like them to when following this tutorial



TOOLS YOU NEED TO DO THIS:

  • 1. Woodland Scenics Smooth-It
    2. Woodland Scenics Paving Tape
    3. Some kind of spreader (i used one that came with a package of paving tape and modified it to make it longer, see picture below)
    4. 3/4" Putty Knife
    5. 3" Putty Knife
    6. A mixing container with a lid
    7. A large cup of water
    8. Steel Ruler
    9. A Sharpie or other pen or pencil

[Image: SL372541.jpg]

The modified spreader i listed above in the tools was made from 2 spreaders. Each package of Paving Tape includes a spreader, i took 2 of these (i have multiple packages of Paving Tape) and added 1-3/4" from the second spreader onto the first spreader, making it a total length of 7" and easier to do a highway or road. You can make the spreader however long you want to, i would just keep it under 9". 7" is long enough to do a 3 lane road, 8" would be just long enough to do a 4 lane road (lanes of 1-3/4" wide).....

The 2 different sizes of Putty Knifes in addition to the lengthened spreader, make the road laying much easier, i would highly suggest getting both sizes of Putty Knifes. The Putty Knifes are mostly used for after the first coat is dry. The smaller one is good for small spaces or one lane roads, the larger for smoothing larger roads....

The mixing container is very important, and i would try and find one with a lid. The cup of water is also important, this is your cleaning cup, where you clean the spread and putty knifes.

If you have all of the above, you should be off to a good start.


Laying your Roads/Highways With Paving Tape

It is important to plan your Roads and or Highways. I would suggest taking your Steel Ruler and actually drawing out a path for the road with the Sharpie or whatever your using. Curves can be difficult, but if you keep a consistent width of the road through the curve, it will come out just fine. Measure out and draw your roads on your layout base. Be sure to include the center dividers if you would want a divided road/highway.

Here is a guideline from the back of the Woodland Scenics Paving Tape Package on road widths:

Prototype City Street = 30' wide. HO Scale = 4-1/8" wide. N Scale = 2-1/4" wide.
Prototype Country Road = 18' wide. HO Scale = 2-1/2" wide. N Scale = 1-3/8" wide.
Prototype Highway Lanes = 12-18' wide depending on the era being modeled. HO Scale = 1-5/8" - 2-1/2" wide. N Scale = 7/8" - 1-3/8" wide.
Prototype Side Walk = 4' wide. HO Scale = 1/2" wide. N Scale = 1/4" wide.


I made my highway lanes 1-3/4" wide, this was only done to try and save a little space, otherwise i would have done them 2-1/2" wide. I test fitted 3 of my trucks side by side and they fit comfortably along side each other on the highway, so 1-3/4" works just fine.

After you have the path of the road marked out, take the Paving Tape, peal some of the backing off so the sticky side is exposed, and lay it along the lines of the road that you drew out. If your doing a regular 4 lane highway, make sure your spreader reaches all the way across to the other side of the road where the other strip of Paving Tape is, this is very important. If i does not, either modify your Spreader to make it longer or lay another strip of Paving Tap down the center of the 2 strips of Paving Tape you have already laid for the roads edges. Once the first coat of Smooth-It has dried, you will have to remove the center Paving Tape Strip and fill it in with more Smooth-It....

I would also suggest that if you are doing a long and wide road, break it up into sections. You can draw all the lines for the road but only lay Paving Tape in sections, this will be alot easier in the long run.

Here is how i laid my Highway out with the Paving Tape, as you can see, this particular section, i had to make the right side of the highway narrow down to 1 lane so that i would have room to put in the on-ramp on the left side, so that is why it goes from a 6 lane highway with a center divider to a 4 lane highway with a center divider, the other 2 lanes would be just off the layout....

[Image: SL372485.jpg]

[Image: SL372484.jpg]

[Image: SL372479.jpg]


Now that you have your roads marked and the Paving Tape down for the roads edges, you are ready to mix and pour the Smooth-It


Mixing Your Smooth-It

Take your container with the lid and pour some Powdered Smooth-It mix from the Smooth-It Container into your mixing container. You really have to guess how much you will need judging on how long and how wide your road is. Once you mix the mixture, you cannot save it, you have to either use it or throw it away because it dries, even with the lid on. Even if you put a ton of water in with the left overs, the Smooth-It will still dry on the bottom of the container and when you go to use it next time, you will get hard chunks that will just not work, don't ask me how i know this... LOL So it is always better to mix only what you think you will need. You can always mix more if you need more.

I would also suggest that you do not try to mix to much at once. Mixing to much at once will cause the mixture to not mix completely and when you pour it you will get chunks that will not smooth out when you use the spreader. In the container i showed in the picture above, i only pour in the powdered Smooth-It to about a quarter of the container.....

Next add some water. Don't add to much, its best to add to little and add a little more if needed. You want to mixture to be to about the consistency of cake mix (for lack of a better explanation). This is not to thick but not to watery either. If your roads are on a hill, you will want to mix it a little thicker, if on level ground, a little more water is just fine. The problem with too much water is that the mixture tends to get very bubbly. If this happens, set it aside for a few minutes and let it dry some, then go back and mix it again. Make sure you mix it thoroughly, you don't want any chunks of powder left. Often times when im mixing a large patch, ill put the lid on and shake it violently, this will make sure the mixture is well mixed....

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  Some minor forum changes
Posted by: ezdays - 02-17-2009, 06:01 AM - Forum: Forum Announcements - Replies (2)

For convenience sake, and to get like forums together, we've moved "Getting to know us", and "Mugshot spot" to the "Hobo's Camp" as sub-forums, and added a new sub-forum there for all to display their Gauge and Big Blue ID cards. Now, all the forum sections that deal with our members can be found in one place.

Also, "Forum Announcements" has been moved to the "Dispatcher's Office", since logically, that's where it belongs.

Nothing major, just a bit of housecleaning that we do from time to time. Goldth

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  food for thought
Posted by: jim currie - 02-16-2009, 10:58 PM - Forum: Upper Berth - Replies (2)

after posting a photo of a large fire box i was thinking(OK i know its dangerous) the grate area of a up big boy is 150.3 square feet. now think of a room in your house that is 10 ft wide and 15 ft long and that's the grate area not the fire box size just the grate's.one fine train room Smile
jim

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  Big Blue ID badges
Posted by: ngauger - 02-16-2009, 08:46 PM - Forum: Big Blue ID Badges & Cards - Replies (27)

Another advantage of having our Logo finalized is:    

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  Steel Mill Roll Shop( picture intense)
Posted by: LynnB - 02-16-2009, 12:10 PM - Forum: Lower Berth - Replies (13)

One day my son had asked me to take some pictures of where I worked and what type of job I did. Although I've been laid off now for about 2 weeks I did work this job for quite a while. Basicly what the job entailed was to bring in the rolls from the mill, the purpose of these rolls are to basicly either directly or indirectly squish a thick plate into thinner plate into either rolled coils or single plates depending on the company placing the orders.My job was to run the crane and\or build the rolls, when I say build the rolls it means take the chocks off the rolls after the rolls come in from the mill and get them ready for the grinder to grind down to a finished surface. We then put the chocks back on and back out to the mill.The crane job also entails not only handling the chocks to be put on the roll ends but also to very very carefully place the 30 ton rolls into the grinders and back out when ready to be built back up. Hopefully this helps someone thinking about steel mill modeling.
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  Idea's on painting junk piles
Posted by: thumsup - 02-16-2009, 12:08 PM - Forum: Scenery details - Replies (6)

Greeting,

Now that I have the "N Scale Model Tech Clutter Pack" I don't have a clue on how to paint it. Eek
These are cast resin, see photo. Any ideas are appreciated.

Joe



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  American Recovery Bill to be signed Tuesday night in Denver
Posted by: ngauger - 02-16-2009, 11:28 AM - Forum: Upper Berth - Replies (24)

Excerpt from bill online at :
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://abclocal.go.com/wpvi/story?section=news/politics&id=6660103">http://abclocal.go.com/wpvi/story?secti ... id=6660103</a><!-- m -->

It's 4 parts and about 1000 pages long if you want to go read it Big Grin


Amtrak: $1.3 billion to improve the speed and capacity of intercity passenger rail service. The Department of Transportation’s Inspector General estimates the North East Corridor alone has a backlog of over $10 billion.

High Speed Rail and Intercity Passenger Rail Grants: $8 billion to advance the development of high speed rail and to improve the intercity passenger rail service in corridors across the nation. The States for Passenger Rail Coalition estimates that there are over $1.5 billion in projects that are ready-to-go.

Airport Improvement Grants: $1.1 billion for airport improvement projects that will improve safety and reduce congestion. An estimated $49.7 billion in eligible airport infrastructure projects are needed between 2009-2013.

Transportation Security Administration Explosive Detection Systems: $1 billion to install Aviation Explosive Detection Systems and checkpoint screening systems in the nation’s airports, improving security, and making life easier on travelers by speeding security lines. Funds are competitively awarded based on security risk.

Border and Ports of Entry: $720 million to construct GSA and Customs and Border Protection land ports of entry to improve border security, make trade and travel easier and reduce wait times.

Coast Guard: $240 million to rehabilitate and repair Coast Guard infrastructure and obstacles to navigation.

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  Discovery Channel Dirty Jobs: Loco Restoration
Posted by: ngauger - 02-16-2009, 10:51 AM - Forum: Upper Berth - Replies (9)

Tuesday Feb 17th.. Locomotove restoration on Dirty Jobs 9:00 PM Eastern

Dirty Jobs
Locomotive Builder
TV-PG (L)

Mike heads to MotivePower in Boise, Idaho to build and restore locomotives for his 200th dirty job.

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  Alberta rail resource
Posted by: Wiredup - 02-16-2009, 12:28 AM - Forum: Canada Rails - Replies (2)

Just came across this site today looking for pictures of bridges....

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://railways-atlas.tapor.ualberta.ca/cocoon/atlas/">http://railways-atlas.tapor.ualberta.ca/cocoon/atlas/</a><!-- m -->

Thought I would share because it's Canadian rails, and it gives a lot of history on a specific area of our country.

Some AMAZING pictures in here.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://railways-atlas.tapor.ualberta.ca/cocoon/atlas/Photos-9-1-1/">http://railways-atlas.tapor.ualberta.ca ... tos-9-1-1/</a><!-- m --> for example

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