May we all be healthy and safe this Easter.

Just a heads up, but someone tried to register and couldn't get past the CAPTCHA. Don't know why, but it's temporally disabled until we figure out why. If anyone has tried to register and couldn't, try now. We still have a security question to stump the spammers and bots.

Just so you have a feeling for how that's working, we've had 189,028 attempts to register, 87 of them got the right answer to our security question (railroad related), 93,437 tried but failed, the rest just didn't even try. That's why you don't see much spam here, and when you do, it's gone in a flash...

WPMA-19 backs into the Lower Bank team track.

Bruce

   

found this on fallen flags looks like it might make a interesting  build .   http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/frt/erie-mwe-a08.jpg

Since I finally go some decent trackwork on my logging branchline, and my MDC shay isn't complete, I need an engine to test it out.
I found several Athearn conversions for sale on Ebay for 75-100$ but I figured I could build one foe much cheaper.
I also found an article in the October 1980 MR that details re-gauging athearn trucks for HOn3. I used that and some of my own calculations to convert an Athearn F-7 to narrow gauge. The engine was free and if it worked okay I figure I'll try it on a smaller Athearn unit and see what I can kitbash out of it.



I started with an older-model Athearn F-unit. The ones that come with the cast-metal sideframes on the trucks. The newer trucks with the square axle bushings won't work.

This unit was well-used and needed some wheel cleaning and lubrication before it started moving.
I ran it for a few minutes before disassembling it.
 

I then disassembled both trucks and cleaned all the parts with Isopropyl alcohol and let them dry.
 

six parts have to be modified in each truck, the four wheels and the two axles. The wheels need to have their metal axles respaced and moved outward. I used a NWSL sensipress to do this. The modified wheel will have .14" of the axle on the inside


The plastic axle/gear will also need to be shortened, but equally on both sides. I found that shortening the axle from the gear to the end to .113"did the trick. I used a sanding disk in my Dremel to shave the plastic axle down, checking with my digital caliper and a kadee wheel gauge as I went.


I also checked the completed wheelsets on my test track and they roll just fine.


Now re-assembling the trucks is a bit more tricky. Since the metal axles in the wheels have been moved, the wheelsets no longer just drop into the trucks. The wheels have to go in first, then press the plastic axles onto them.

Then install the rest of the gears in the on side, add the wheels into the other side, then place the two side together, pressing the wheels into the plastic axles and re-gauging them.


The only problem now is that the bottom truck cover will now fit so it will have to be left off. The MR article gives a template to make a new styrene cover the is glued on with contact cement.
 

I re-assembled the chassis and ran it on my test track. It runs just as well as it did when it was standard gauge.

Hi all,

I used to use rubbing alcohol to clean my track which worked really well.  Well, for obvious reasons, rubbing alcohol is almost impossible to find. Can anyone recommend any alternatives? 

Out of desperation, I started using some Humbrol enamel thinner -- I dab a bit of this onto an old T shirt/ rag and it seems to be cleaning up the grime nicely!   I might continue using this but could it cause any problems anywhere?

Thanks in advance,
Rob

WPMA-29 works McFroe's Warehouse.

Bruce

   

After several weeks of research here is the planned industries for my new 94/95 Slate Cree ISL.. These are based on real industries.

Tri-State Polymers. In plastic pellets and plasticizer. Out: empty covered hoppers and tank cars.

Pattons Distribution. In tobacco and alcohol beverages.  Out: 50 and 60' boxcars. 

Weston Manufacturing. In Steel coils and occasional empty gon . Out Empty coil and mill gon. A occasional  load  of production scrap in 50' gons.

Zimmers Frozen Foods. In meats and vegetables . Out: Empty 64' reefers. 

Hunnicut Printing Corporation In rolls of paper and ink.  Out: Empty 50' boxcars and tankcars.

Standard American  Recyclers Inc. In scrap rubber and empty covered hoppers. Out: Empty 50' boxcars and covered hoppers of rubber graduals.

Considine Industries. In Carbon Black and a occasional empty 60' boxcar. Out Empty carbon black hoppers and occasional load of rubber automotive floor matts in 60' boxcars.. 

Mid State Tire Distribution. In automobile and truck tires in 50' boxcars. Out: Empty 50' boxcars.

Reliance Universal In  canstock and empties. Out: Empty 50' and  loaded 50' boxcars of  food cans.

The Transload track is still in the planning stage and will include a lumber and home improvement company, structure steel shape distributor and  a crush glass shipper.

The new Slate Creek will be 18" x 16'.. I plan to include a trailer drop lot, two street crossings-where's the fun if you don't block street crossings during switching moves?- and a three track yard for holding cars for Tri-State Polymers and Hunnicut   Printing.  

Slate Creek will be home to Summerset Ry, Slate Creek Rail and CR's  Slate Street Industrial Lead which of course is fictional. I  have several CR GP38-2s, 2 SD38s and a SD40-2.  I might add NS Slate Road Industrial since I have two Atlas NS high hood GP38s.. 

Back on SSRy the owner a Mr. Thoron owns several locomotive lettered for SCL, Seaboard System  and a C&O RS-1 all of these engines are stored serviceable and is used from time to time at his direction.  


He also owns a Santa Fe 2-8-0 that sees service two or three times a year.. A steam locomotive crew is hired from a local steam powered museum.  Mr. Thoron keeps his locomotives in a warehouse he owns that features two inside tracks. His long term plan is to build a three stall diesel house where the warehouse now stands. He also owns seven cabooses and a heavy weight observation that is stored on SCR.

I'm having a problem with a LifeLike 0-6-0 switcher.  It will run ok in forward but when I go to reverse the eccentric arm moves out of position and locks up the engine.  I'm suspecting that possibly the eccentric crank is out of position.  On both sides of the engine the eccentric cranks are offset from the centerline of the axle.  The one that keeps locking up appears to be very slightly more offset from the centerline that the other one.  Where should the eccentric crank be positioned in relation to the centerline of the axle?  I've looked at images from the internet til my eyes are blurry and can't really tell for sure.  Some appear to be aligned with the centerline of the axle others not so much.  I always bring the engine to a stop before reversing direction.

Any information, suggestions, and/or guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Tom