Hi guys, just wondering who here will be attending the Great Train Expo at the Anaheim Convention Center this weekend? Im going tomorrow morning for the day i think, just wanted to know if anyone would be there? Russ are you going to be there? lol

Ill be going by myself, my grandpa usually takes me but he will be working tomorrow lol

An Athearn Genesis 2-8-2 chassis, under an extended Bachmann 2-6-0 boiler, with a few "upgrades".
I shot this on a 16" X 48" On30 diorama. I took a "cheap" 23" X 45" print down from the living room wall, and used it as a backdrop.    

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Any model or prototype picture of Railroad Steam or Diesel engines will suffice!!!

Begins Jan 20 (Inauguration day) and ends Feb 28th....

ALL pictures submitted MUST have been taken by the member submitting the work!! No exceptions!!

Pictures of Model Railroads and Prototypes will be judged separately... Each member can only enter One Picture in Each half of the Contest.. Ex. One picture in either Model or Prototype. Or 2 pictures - one in each subject.

Prototype Railroad Engines <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=477">viewtopic.php?f=37&t=477</a><!-- l -->

Model Railroad Engines <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=476">viewtopic.php?f=37&t=476</a><!-- l -->

Of course, there are no real prizes, just bragging rights!! The Winner of each half of the contest will receive a Special Inaugural Certificate from Big Blue. Sent directly to your e-mail!!!

Judging will be the first week of March!!!

Figured that I would start a layout thread over here, I have not posted anything since I have not been making much progress! However, some funds and time were recently allocated (read: winter break and Christmas) so I have a bit of progress!

Went to the LHS and was looking for decals, found some microscale graffiti decals and figured that I would try a few out. Not 100% sure on the tags, they look a bit ridiculous and I can see the edges of the decal - can't figure out how to fix that. One trick I did figure out was that if you tear one off after it has set it leaves the appearance that it has been partially cleaned off.





Worked on my new junction, added filler and weathering. These tracks will most likely not be in use.





Assembled and painted a new building, it is still awaiting a few architectural details. I like to try and come up with some different paint schemes, so I often have a few repaints. For some reason I tend to end up working mostly with dark browns, so I wanted to try something a little different with this building. Colors are Railroad Tie Brown, Mineral Red, and windows are Pullman Green.



I also began assembling a new split level building in my industrial corridor. It is a combination of two city classics kits. Colors are Sand (concrete) and aged concrete (brick). Front side facing the camera is unpainted.





Finally, I finished my second plow. Yeah..don't ask me why I took the picture with a post in the middle..



- Dan

Yep, Big Blue is having it's first ever challenge, and you all gave us the idea. Mikey and I were looking over everyone's resolutions in this http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=421 thread, and some of your plans for 2009 in thishttp://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=418 and we thought we have a challenge that will check up on you and see how well you're keeping your promises. What you need to do is to define some goals, then over the next few months, you can document the progress on these goals and by the end of April, we'll judge you on how close you came to meeting those goals.

Here's how it's going to work:

1. Pick a project, or several projects that you've either already said that you want to complete this year, or ones that you haven't told us about yet, but would like to complete.
   
2. Start a thread in this forum "your screen name, 2009 New Year's challenge"
   
3. Tell us what you intend to do as part of your challenge. This can be as simple as building a kit or painting a loco, to more complex projects like putting track down on a section of your or your club's layout, building some benchwork, finishing some scenery, adding a backdrop or completing a specific area of the layout.
   
4. Document your progress with as many pictures and any number of posts to let us know how you're making it to your goal.
   
5. Since we never give anything of value away, this challenge is open to all registered members of the Big Blue Train Forum, including the staff.
   
6. All the pictures should be taken by you, and a substantial amount of the work must also be done by you. In either case, if you need help with the photos or building, use it, but your participation is what counts.

This car is produced by Full Circle Models (<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.fullcmodels.com/">http://www.fullcmodels.com/</a><!-- m -->). I like old-style freight cars but probably wouldn't have found out about this kit except that my sister in law happened to marry the son of the owner. This was the first wedding where I was able talk trains when time allowed!

The owner's inspiration came from the modelers of yore, specifically from a 1955 MR article by John Allen. He wanted to pay tribute to their efforts and construction methods, hence the company name.



The kit is composed of cardstock and resin parts for the major parts (carbody and underframe) and commercial detail kits from Grandt Line and Tichy.

The packaged kit:


The underframe is cast resin, bolsters pre-tapped - very little cleanup needed. Queenposts and Grandt Line K-brakes are separately applied (by you!)


The carbody structure starts with a bunch of puzzle pieces - very nifty:


The carbody takes shape. The cubes that make up the car ends are very rigid. Full Circle provides very big bolts for weighting the car (this is what the holes are for). I opted for lead on the floor to keep the CG lower. You have to be careful with the structure at this point - the heavy ends can cause the roof to buckle if you pick it up clumsily.


The underframe is held in mechanically via tabs in the resin casting that insert into slots in the carbody sides. The underframe is actually cast by a firm outside of full circle. Considering the two manufacturers and dissimilar materials, I was very impressed with the engineering of the model at this point - everything fit as snug as a bug in a rug.


Sides and ends are pre-printed and weathered thin cardstock. Attachment is via white glue.


Add a bunch of details (everything is provided - trucks, kadee couplers, grabs, poling pockets, ladders, etc.), and you're done.


Instructions were very good - not the best I've seen, but good for a first product. Full Circle has revised these at least once since I received my kit - it's nice to see a manufacturer actively improving the product.


Last, every kit comes with a certificate with your name, kit number and text which I think shows the owner's interest in the hobby. Yes, I'm kind of sort of related to the owner, but given this is only the 19th kit ever produced, I'm impressed. And yes, it took me almost a year to get it done (counting "to be constructed" dwell time! I had a caboose to finish!).


Matt

I have accured a collection of HO cars, but I think some don't fit my period. I am trying to restrict my stock to mid 50's, so tell me if I should trade off these cars.

All are Athearn Blue Box.

ATSF 55' ACF center flow hopper.

AFSF 50' Supper Shock Control box car.

ATSF 40' HI-CUBE box car.

Milwaukee Road 40' HI-CUBE box car.

Kent

I was just wondering, can a member post a short video on this board in the same manner as posting a photo? Just curious.

KT

Anyone here ever deal with Tony's Train Exchange? They have a good deal on an item I want. Even with S&H it's about $9 cheaper than at Walthers. I'm ready to order but have never dealt with Tony's. Just looking for some advice.

Thanks,

KT

I used to do these “Kitbasher’s Diary” threads a long time ago at the old Gauge, & this was one of them… I’m sure some of you have seen these before, but I thought since this is a fairly new site, I’d re-post this one…It probably won’t be of much interest to the “old hands”, but I thought some newcomers to the hobby might get an idea or two from it…

This will hopefully demonstrate how you can take an inexpensive plastic structure kit, & by moving things around, taking some things away, & adding others, you can transform it into something that is unique to your layout…
I’m also hoping to demonstrate how mistakes & flaws can lead you on to even better ideas…


This was an N scale project, but it could be any scale…

Here’s the kit I started with…(keep in mind that the manufacturer’s description of the kit means nothing to the kitbasher…we look at them as simply a collection of parts)



Built per instructions, they’re a bit toy-like…hopefully, we’ll be able to improve on that a little…
The first thing I did was to discard the molded plastic base…this frees you up as to the “footprint” of the structure…
I glued the walls together, & the little annex that’s supposed to go on the rear of the main structure, I attached to the side, keeping the tops of the walls even…



I needed some kind of foundation for the annex now, so I cut some pieces from some HO scale brick walls…I also cut a hole for a door in the main section, rather than using the large arched door assembly that came with the kit…I primed everything with gray primer…



The back wall of the main structure was basically a blank…it was just calling for something, so I fashioned a lean-to addition from pieces of an old Model Power farmhouse kit…Made another little foundation from the HO brick walls…



I painted everything, & glued in the windows…If you look back at the 2nd & 3rd photos, you’ll see a large gap where the annex joins the main structure…I hid this with a chimney I made from styrene covered with Holgate & Reynolds brick sheet…