Gary S Wrote:What are your thoughts on the 5/8" for the ceiling? In residential, I have only seen 1/2" for walls and ceiling.
As for the coves, I am looking forward to doing that. 3/8" in the corners and the masonite brings it out to 1/2" to match the straight walls.
I did see on one website that they recommended Liquid Nails on the ceiling joists, along with the screws or nails.
Gary, around here, I think that 5/8" for ceilings is mandatory.
I saw one site where they suggested the liquid nails, but only for the centres of the board (with no nails or screws) and nails or screws around the perimeter. I can't see any advantages - it eliminates some screws and the required finishing, but that's such a minor task that it's hardly worth the cost of the adhesive. If you use nails, you've got the dimple from the face of the hammer to fill: if you use screws, you've got only the screw to cover. This is another area where you see people glopping on the mud, then feathering it out like a thin pancake stuck to the wall (en francais, vee call zem zee crepes)
all around the area and likewise for screw heads. If the screws or nails are properly set, that immediate area is all that needs to be filled. Like so many things, some folks like to make them more difficult than they need to be.
Wayne
I'll be using screws, and just the screwhead indentations will be filled (no crepes!).
I kind of like the idea of the adhesive on the joists. I won't use any less screws though. If you and I can't come up with any scientific thought on 5/8 versus 1/2 on the ceiling, I'll go with the 1/2.
It has been raining all day so the ground is soaking wet again. Tomorrow I will probably work inside on the electrical... too nasty to be walking around and using the ladder to put the soffit in.
Gary S Wrote:....If you and I can't come up with any scientific thought on 5/8 versus 1/2 on the ceiling, I'll go with the 1/2.
My "scientific" guess is that the 5/8" board is 1/8" less likely to sag between support points than the 1/2".
Wayne
...Not if you give it a good coat of GERN flux before installing.....
G,
5/8ths for the ceiling used to be code. Not sure exactly why, other than strength. Back when I worked as a tape & bedder, the rockers nailed to wood (residential) and screwed to metal (commercial). If you plan to use drywall screws to wood studs, be aware that it is easy to run that screw too deep, creating more work to spot the screws when you're finishing the walls out, and it is important to run the screws straight in....after a while you're arm gets really tired and if you're not careful, the screws start going in at an angle, making it more difficult for the screw to be effective.
When you get to the point where you know when you will start finishing the walls out, let me know and I will see if I can come down for 2 or 3 days and help you out. Of course, all depends on the COO here at my house and I will need to get permission from the Mudder's Union
Thank you for the advice on the screws, Richard. I'll probably use the trusty ol' DeWalt baatery drill rather than an actual screw gun, so I do indeed need to be careful with not sinking them too deep. Now, the DeWalt has that "adjustable clutch" feature (which I have never used before) and maybe I can adjust it to sink the screws properly.
Also thanks for your offer of help. I'll keep you posted as to my progress. I got most of the electrical in this weekend, and then need to insulate and finish up a few loose ends, also need to decide on what I am doing with the center wall and finish framing that too. Next weekend we are supposed to be doing the ditch for the electrical conduit. So, I imagine I am several weeks away at best.
Gary
doctorwayne Wrote:My "scientific" guess is that the 5/8" board is 1/8" less likely to sag between support points than the 1/2".
I'm guessing the 5/8" board is 1/8" more difficult to hang on the ceiling than 1/2"!
Seems down here they always used 5/8 for walls and ceilings in commercial jobs, and 1/2 for walls and ceilings in residential.
Made decent progress on the building this weekend. Originally I had planned on finishing the soffits, but it was just too muddy after the heavy rain we had Friday. So, I switched from carpenter mode to electrician mode....
Now, I know this is cRaZy but I went ahead and used thinwall conduit throughout the building. No romex whatsoever.
First photo is the attic area under the vent fan. Some of you suggested a light and switch and receptacle in the attic. The 4/0 box up high on the left is for the attic light. The box down low will have a switch and a receptacle. And there is a pipe going to the vent fan t-stat.
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I took DocWayne's advice and am putting a switched outlet to power the DCC system and my power supply for the uncoupling magnets. The switch is by the door. The box with the single pipe coming in the top will have two switched receptacles in it. The other box with the three pipes is for my track bus wiring. Because the room is large, I am putting the DCC system in the middle on the peninsula, and will then run overhead through the attic to three outside walls. This results in a much shorter distance for the bus wiring. I'll have four seperate zones... north wall, east wall, south wall, and peninsula/west wall. I'm going to use #8 for the bus runs, because it is readily available and will surely be low resistance for my longer runs.
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Here is the east wall. The low box is for a receptacle, the high box is the track bus mentioned in previous photo.
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These are the lighting boxes. I'll put some 3" round rings on them for coming through the sheetrock.
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Piping out of the panel... three pipes used, three spares (a bit much
). On the right of the door, I'll have light switches, a switch for the DCC supply, a switch for the outside light above the door. I'm going to put in a couple of exhaust fans in the ceiling, so I'll have a switch to turn them on, plus it will turn on the attic vent fan. I don't really like the arrangement of the box below the other box, but the layout is coming over the area, and it would be a reach if I kept putting the boxes further toward the right.
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The lowest box is for a receptacle, the box on the upper left is the track bus for the north wall, and, I took DocWayne's advice and put a receptacle box up high under the layout, so I can add receptacles in the fascia if I decide to.
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Gary S Wrote:Now, I now this is cRaZy but I went ahead and used thinwall conduit throughout the building. No romex whatsoever.
I don't understand the significance of this statement? Also, how big is your main beam running down the ridgeline? As usual, fantastic work and smokin' progress.
I was thinking,... what if you had to move later on. Would the next person along to buy your place be able to use this structure as a normal building... I mean, right now it's pretty specialized with the wiring and such. Is there anything you could do that you don't really need but would be beneficial towards thinking ahead to just such a scenario? A 220V line in case it's used as a workshop?
For getting the screws sunk properly without a screwgun:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=44770&cat=1,180,42240,53317">http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 2240,53317</a><!-- m -->
Andrew
TrainNut Wrote:I don't understand the significance of this statement?
Well, 98% of all residential electrical is done with nonmetallic sheathed cable aka romex. To do all pipe is a little overkill... very cool, but still overkill!
TrainNut Wrote:Also, how big is your main beam running down the ridgeline?
Here are a couple of photos showing how the beam was constructed. It is double 2x6s on the bottom at the ceiling level, and double 2x12s on the top, with 2x4 webbing. Again, way overkill for a building this size, but at least I know the next hurricane won't bring her down!
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TrainNut Wrote:I was thinking,... what if you had to move later on. Would the next person along to buy your place be able to use this structure as a normal building... I mean, right now it's pretty specialized with the wiring and such. Is there anything you could do that you don't really need but would be beneficial towards thinking ahead to just such a scenario? A 220V line in case it's used as a workshop?
I was originally thinking along the same lines... had even considered framing the walls in a manner that a garage door could be installed later on, stuff like that. But then decided not to worry about it. The next owner can make whatever changes he desires if the time comes.
The panel will be 120/240 volts, and I have the spare pipes going into the attic, so it would be pretty simple to add extra outlets. There are outlet boxes every ten feet or so around the perimeter walls. I think the building would make a nice woodshop or such... maybe even a game room. Tear out the center wall, and you could put in a ping pong table and a pool table.
Edit: One of the good things about conduit is you can easily repull wire and change a 120 volt outlet to a 240 volt outlet.
MasonJar Wrote:For getting the screws sunk properly without a screwgun:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=44770&cat=1,180,42240,53317">http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 2240,53317</a><!-- m -->
Nice find, Andrew. Thanks!
Tetters, don't be jealous! Just come on down here and you can use the building anytime you want!
hock: 