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Steamtrains Wrote:Glad you fixed that picture up...That loco did look kinda strange...What I can't figure out yet is what that grid of tubes on the top of the boiler right behind the stack is for....Is that part of the Whyte system..?? Eek

Gus, with the internet, all it takes is one misplaced bit, and the entire file becomes corrupted. Glad I was able to fix that before some neophyte got the wrong impression and went looking for one of those crazy looking things.

And yep, that is the main part of the Whyte system.
P5se Camelback Wrote:Geez, Wayne! I've been laughing so hard ... I literally lost control of ...

Okay biL... I'm including YOU in the list of "old-timers!"

Big Grin
Big Grin 357 357 Icon_lol Icon_lol 2285_ Icon_lol Icon_lol :oops:
Not to change the subject, but....

For those of you who haven't realized it yet, my hobby isn't so much model railroads, but the wiring of model railroads. The only reason I even have a layout is so I can play with all the pretty colored wires and techno-doo-dads. Along that vein, I have been installing the local electro-magnet controls. Completed about 10 so far, with only one hitch - an LED in one of the pushbuttons did not work. I'll check it out later. Other than that, all the pre-fab is going great. Simple installation, connect some color coded wires, turn on the power, and it works!

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Errrr.... DocWayne.... I just noticed.... and would be remiss not to point out... that you did resort to a wire color coding system! Confusedhock: I see even you could not escape the darkeness of the "model railroad electrician" cult. Man, if you had used the same color wire for both connections, I may have been impressed! Big Grin

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Gary, your trains will probably run well even if you don't bother to turn on the power. 357

You're right about the rails all being soldered together, except, of course, where there are insulated joints. All of the bridges are removeable by simply sliding the rail joiners out of the way, though, so they're not soldered either - I did provide drops at those locations to allow soldering below the layout, but none have yet needed to be connected. The entire layout is a single block, with passing sidings and some spurs able to be isolated electrically. I may divided the layout into two or three blocks if I ever get that second level built, but that would only be necessary if I had regular operators to utilise that feature.
Due to the design of the layout and its planned operating scheme, any train which is moving must have a designated operator, so, for me, one block works fine.
There's about 200' of mainline in-service, with roughly another 65' to be added on the second level - that figure doesn't include passing sidings or double track, of course.
Depending on the controller used, I have run more than a dozen locos at a time, and also trains in excess of 70 cars, although neither would be the case in normal operations. Most trains will be one or two locos, and fairly short trains - passing sidings limit this to about a dozen cars, although the main purpose of most passing sidings here is simply as run-arounds, as almost all trains will need to perform switching duties at the towns through which they pass.
I do have a bus wire of sorts (#14 wires) to connect all of the throttle jacks together, but they all connect to the track through those two wires shown.
As for the colour coding, you'll notice that the white wire is heavier than the red one - I only used it 'cause I ran out of the smaller red stuff. Misngth Icon_lol

Wayne
doctorwayne Wrote:As for the colour coding, you'll notice that the white wire is heavier than the red one - I only used it 'cause I ran out of the smaller red stuff.

Bigger wire on one rail means more voltage to that side of the loco drivers, meaning more pulling force on those wheels as compared to the other side, meaning the loco will run in circles. DocWayne, do your locos run in circles?

Misngth
Gary S Wrote:
doctorwayne Wrote:As for the colour coding, you'll notice that the white wire is heavier than the red one - I only used it 'cause I ran out of the smaller red stuff.

Bigger wire on one rail means more voltage to that side of the loco drivers, meaning more pulling force on those wheels as compared to the other side, meaning the loco will run in circles. DocWayne, do your locos run in circles?

Misngth

Why, yes, as a matter of fact they do..... Eek I fixed that problem easily enough, though, by simply removing the lift-out at the doorway. Wink Misngth Icon_lol

[attachment=19828]

Wayne (I'm the good-lookin' one in the pitcher above - my bruther's the one in the fancy clean shirt showin'-off his new wristwatch)
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:hey: Hey there Doctor Wayne, just onaccounta yer a docter an' all don't give you no right to use me an' muh bruther's image fer yer own porpoises, and besides that, the currect spellin' ain't "pitcher", it's "pickshure". Goldth
We-all'd surely depreciate a offishul detraction or yer gonna hear from our solicitator fella.

The Hoffentoth Boys, Esq.
Hoffentoth Bros Wrote:We-all'd surely depreciate a offishul detraction or yer gonna hear from our solicitator fella.

The Hoffentoth Boys, Esq.

After reading your missive, boys, you can rest assured that you've rendered me totally apoplectic. I trust that will suffice? Wink
I do hope, though, that you'll not take it too personally if I continue to use my favourite smiley. Misngth Misngth

Wayne
Quote:And he asked me, "Do you know what the two most important conductors on your layout are?"

I thought for a minute, then figured it out, "The track?"

Clearly this fella had no idea what he was talking about. The Model Railroading Department of Redundancy Repartment for Model Railroading has a strong lobby with the hobby press and makes it very clear, while making it very clear, that there must be a bus wire (or several) with feeders dropped for every section of rail because rail joints, even soldered joints, alone are not enough. 35

Never mind what experience or logic teaches you, or the fact that someone's layout has worked without this additional wire for years, the official word stands for all time! Keep in mind these are the same folks who have repeatedly said that homasote will warp. (hint: it's not the homasote that warps - it's the plywood substrate!)

And now, back to the thread...

Galen
... 357 Icon_lol 357 ....
ocalicreek Wrote:Clearly this fella had no idea what he was talking about.

I often wondered about this, but could never put my finger on it... clearly you guys are NUTS! 35

357
I did some thinking and read a bit on the DCC wiring and recommended practices. Did the following experiment:

Right now, all my power districts are connected together by rail connections. At some point I will cut gaps in the track to seperate the districts so each has its own wiring feeding it. Hope that makes sense so far. So, right now, when I turn on a single district, it actually supplies power to the other districts through the rail connections.

For the experiment, I turned on a single district, then went to one of the other districts which is receiving its power through only a rail connection. I used a screwdriver to short between the two rails. There was some sparking and humming and obvious high current flow, but not enough to cause the booster to go into short circuit mode and cut off. This is because the rail connection by itself has too much resistance. The booster was steadily pumping current through the short circuit. Not good.

Next, I turned on the switches so all the districts were fed by wiring, and again shorted the rails. This time the booster shut down on overload and stopped the current from flowing. So there is the reason why DCC wiring needs to be fairly robust. Mind you, not complicated, because it is very straight-forward. But you do need a bus and track feeders every so often.

After that, I installed some more electromagnet controls, then I ran the train a bit, doing a few drops and pick-ups at GERN Industries Texas Division.